Buddahriffic

joined 2 years ago
MODERATOR OF
[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago

Ok now repeat after me: "We are... Sofa king... Stoop id"

[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago

Reminds me of the time I installed a 3d modelling program at work and decided I liked it and pirated it at home.

The work one took weeks of troubleshooting on my own with the instructions followed by email back and forth with support. And the business I worked for had a partner license the whole time. Their DRM involved a dongle in the parallel port and a license server running on the local machine.

At home, I decided one day to use it to make test files for a raytracer I was writing, found it, downloaded it, installed it, and was running it by the end of the night without any of the fancy shit they tried to add to prevent this.

That was when I learned that that pain in the ass DRM was only a pain in the ass for legitimate users and lazy/naive piraters.

[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago

Yeah patient gamers check in!

When you feel like it, that is, assuming checking in lives up to any of the hype or seems fun at all.

For impatient gamers, pre-order checking in right now and I, uh... And my LLC pinky promises that checking in will be amazing, so you better give me money to reserve it now in case we run out of check ins by the time you get to the front of the line. You don't want to miss out on something great, do you?

[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 3 points 2 days ago

It could also mean something like, "I am going to challenge your opinion but don't intend it as a challenge to your position". Or even, "I respect your opinion and think you might be right, but I don't understand it, so here's the thing that has me confused so we can clear it up and get on the same page".

[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 12 points 2 days ago

There's nothing wrong with asking questions, even if the answers aren't hard to find using other ways. Like I appreciate the question because it was something that had never even occurred to me, as obvious as it was in hindsight.

And even when the question is being asked in bad faith, discouraging people from asking questions can give them more credibility rather than less, because it looks like (soft) censorship, especially to anyone else who thinks it's a good question.

[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago

Lol thanks for the reminders with the corrections. Funny thing was I had started with S, then remembered shi, so switched to T. Should have done K instead. T also has tsu instead of tu, so even S would have been more correct than my "correction".

I think I might have initially had katakana written down but second guessed (though I did initially misspell it again right here, so it was probably another one that started wrong and was corrected wrongly).

And yeah, the origin of hiragana has a story of overcoming oppression. From women not being allowed to use katakana to them just deciding to invent a new alphabet so they could write anyways, and apparently being better at it because that's now the main alphabet, it's like the hero's journey.

[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago

Looking back at the thread, bans were mentioned, but the context that I was following looked like it was about wanting to go beyond what's banned because the industry just rotates in variations of the chemicals whenever specific ones are banned.

[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Though how risky is it in reality? Eg for bread, if visible mold means there's also invisible mold, wouldn't that imply that there's a period with just invisible mold that goes unnoticed and eaten? We're constantly inhaling and consuming mold spores anyways, so is this more of a "I know it's there and thus deem it icky" or "if it's soft and has mold, toss it all, and hope that you don't get unlucky and eat mold you couldn't see in the first place"?

[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 5 points 2 days ago

Solar wind is a decent flavour, though much better if it's ions sourced from 1000km below the sun's surface. They say they are the same ions as just one km below the surface, but I can tell the difference between 1km and 1kkm (or 1Mm if you will) jam as soon as those ions start striping the electrons from my tongue (at which point I spit it out because it has become chemicals).

[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 4 points 2 days ago

Also to remember that government spending isn't a loss of wealth but a transfer of wealth. There are people profiting from each of these missiles fired (assuming they'll be replaced, though it still counts if they are replaced by a different missile or system, unless that new system is from a non-profit or public weapons manufacturer).

[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago (2 children)

Yeah but if I use stainless steel pans, I can use stainless steel wool to clean them, so the sticking doesn't really matter aa much when it does happen, plus cooking techniques can reduce or eliminate sticking even on stainless steel. So I'll adjust to say I'm not losing anything I value.

And I don't have a huge issue with it being used on things that doesn't touch our skin or food/water often. And my goal is to minimize exposure in this plastic world. I understand that at least some restaurants (if not most that use pans) probably use nonstick pans and that I'm getting exposed to BPA every time I touch a receipt. So I don't use those pans at home and don't let receipts linger in my hands and use gloves when going through a bunch of them.

[–] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago (4 children)

How is it an overreaction if it can be done without losing anything in life? I retired all my pans with non-stick coating years ago and haven't missed them a single time and appreciate that it makes it easier to minimize the number of plastic cooking utensils my kitchen has, too.

 

At first I thought it was a printing error, but I see the same thing in scryfall images of the card. They've done a lot of variations with the card art over the years but I've never seen an art variation that obscures the card text itself (excluding cards that omit the text entirely because the card is well known, like Islands).

I'm just surprised that I can't even find anyone talking about it because it seems like an odd design choice to me.

 

Posting this because when I looked, there weren't much resources on the internet about this and most of what there was weren't very optimistic and were very vague on details. I wasn't sure I'd ever see it function again when I started pulling my controller apart and my confidence didn't go up until I tried it out after getting it back together.

It was a frustrating experience, too. Pretty much from start to finish. Also I'm not really sure if I'm just detailed or rambly.

It all started when I was playing beat saber and my controller slipped right out of my hand during an intense part. I picked up my controller and didn't hear any rattling and the motion detection continued to work, so I went back to playing.

It wasn't until I was ready to shut it down that I realized that my control stick was fucked. It wouldn't register anything at all at first but then if I moved the stick around, it would take a hard right. I think the lack of movement at first is because the software ignores sustained input that begins before a new input context and moving the stick caused some y movement and made it accept the x movement, which was stuck going to one side.

First thing I did was check the internet for some kind of repair guide and found pretty much nothing. There were two teardown videos (one in Japanese) that did help give me a general idea of the order things came off, but they both montaged the interesting parts from a wide angle. I also found out that Sony doesn't sell the controllers separately, going through them would involve replacing the whole thing whether through warranty, "repair", or trying to buy a new one. They don't sell parts either.

My best bet was looking like buying a used set online, though the cheapest I saw one for was $450 CAD and would have involved a drive (though I also didn't look very hard as I wanted to try fixing it first).

Unfortunately I don't have pictures because I just went into it once I got started. I wish I did because there's three extra screws, including the longest one out of the bunch, which concerns me. I'll probably pull them both apart again when I'm feeling motivated enough to see where I missed them.

Note that because of those extra screws, my disassembly description might miss some because it's based on my memory of reassembling it, where I obviously missed some.

I did it over three separate sessions.

The first session went until I had trouble pulling the back casing off (where your fingers hold it), stopping when I felt frustrated enough that I started to not care as much if I ended up breaking pieces to get it apart.

I stopped the second session when I realized I needed to use a soldering iron to get the thumb stick off the board to proceed any further.

Tools used:

  • small cross screwdriver, magnetic really helps because the screws are small and some of the spaces are pretty tight with delicate parts around them
  • a few flathead bits were used to help pry plastic bits apart or release plastic clips
  • soldering set
  • tweezers for small and delicate parts

First part that comes off is the white piece right below the trigger. Press on the black part and you'll be able to get under it and it comes off pretty easily. Check the teardown videos, it was pretty easy to figure it out from them.

From there, there's a couple of screws and then you can pull the other white part off, exposing the infrared leds that allow the headset cameras to track it. A rubber band (not like a rubber band rubber band, but a band made out of rubber) protects the ribbon powering them (one of the most delicate looking parts in there), it just pulls off from either end.

I didn't do this at the time, but it's possible to unplug the battery at this point and probably a good idea to do so. It's the white plug you can see on the bottom of the controller.

There's a couple more screws holding the led assembly in place, then you can pull that off, though pull the ribbons out first. Do so by working the tabs on the side, alternating until it comes out. Be gentle and patient. The rest came off easily after the ribbon but was the hardest part to get back on properly, so I might have just gotten lucky with how I tried the first time. Make note of where the screws are for that so you don't fill the holes with screws early when putting it back together like I did, since they also hold the other round part of the case to the main part in the middle.

The next part was a pain to get off because it's not obvious how it clicks into place. There's also a screw still holding it. But once you see how it's held, it should come off easily.

The next bit is where I got tired of it and took a break. There's a few screws holding it in, plus clips all around. A plastic card might help here, but if you pull and twist the right way, it comes off without that and without a ton of force, which is important because there's a ribbon going from the charger port to the main part that you don't want to yank on. Be gentle and patient with this one, too.

That just leaves the front part of the case. There's a bunch of screws for this one.

Two are under the battery. You need to remove the side button to get the battery out. Unplug its ribbon and unscrew it, then poke the plastic tab on the other end and it should come off. You don't need to seperate the button from the other part, also be aware that there's a spring between them that can fall out if they get loose while you're removing it. There's a circle holder thing if it does come out; it gives the button its return force.

The battery is just held in place by a clip on either side, just pull it out and unplug it, grabbing by the plug because those wires can come out from less force than it takes to pull the plug out sometimes.

Another screw is only accessible after you remove the trigger cover. I removed the spring giving it extra bounce on the side first, but realized when I was putting it back on that I never needed to, as that white part underneath the trigger stays where it is. To get the trigger off, you need to release the plastic clip holding the front. I used my smallest flathead bit for this. It's on the right side of the black post. In the Japanese teardown video, you can see him poking at this before pulling the trigger off. Finding that was one of the really frustrating parts because the back part seems like it is coming out if you pull it, but the front part sticks until you undo that tab.

At this point, you can remove all the screws and get the front cover off. Keep it facing down because there's nothing holding the buttons in place and lift the electronics up from it.

Next you need to desolder the exposed control stick. I used a sucker tool to remove most of the solder first, then I heated it again and pulled the stick assembly off. There's another one of those delicate ribbons to unplug, too.

The metal part that was soldered comes off easily.

This next part is the most tricky. You need to pull that metal base part off. It is crimped metal and those tabs are delicate enough that this is likely a fix that can only be applied once. I broke one tab off when removing it and two more partially broke when crimping it back on. I wasn't able to remove it by bending only one side of it, though it's possible you might be able to remove it with less damage if you bend each tab as little as possible to be able to force it through. In hindsight, that's how I'd try it if I had to do it again. Instead I ended up bending one side minimally and then the other side straight.

Do this over a surface to catch parts that might fall out, btw. There's three little plastic bits. If you can, keep the stick part on the bottom. Handle it from the sides and avoid touching the stick once the base is removed. The thin plastic board can come out when it's loose, though don't force it if it isn't sliding out.

Now that it's open, I fixed mine by just figuring out how it worked and fit back together. Make sure the stick and both axles are seated properly. The two small pieces with metal on them fit into the two wider slots inside the notch on the axles and control the positioning sensors. The other one goes in the smaller slot; this one presses the button when you push the stick in. Then the circuit board goes on, it's pretty easy to figure out which way it goes if you look at the contacts for the slider parts. There's little holes in it that fit into plastic posts.

Line the circle on the base up with the hole in the circuit board and reattach and recrimp. It's easier said than done, good luck. I added some flux to each tab and solder to hopefully give them more endurance. The way it's set up should also hopefully keep everything in place, too, but it seems like a design that would fail easily if that bit isn't tight.

Anyways, reassembly is pretty much the same thing backwards from here. Just remember to plug in the ribbons and try not to miss any screws like I did. I accidentally hit the power button once after the battery was plugged back in, while the leds were still off. It started my ps5 up but didn't seem to cause any issues. I just held the PS button down until the PS5 showed there were no controllers on to turn it back off and continue. I wouldn't suggest plugging in the led ribbons while it's powered on. I might have been playing with fire just plugging them in while the battery was plugged in. You can reassemble it such that the battery is the last thing you plug in, and that's probably what you should do.

At this point I tried turning it on, then turned on the other one to test it and was surprised to see the control stick working fine. Tracking also worked and nothing rattles or moves inside it other than the vibrators (it looked like two motors in there but one of them might have been an accelerometer), so I think everything worked out in the end.

Good luck if you're here because you need to do this to save your PSVR2 set. Hope it's encouraging to know it is possible and that my description is useful when combined with the teardown videos and having one physically in front of you.

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