My first attempt at the Trifid and Lagoon nebulae!

A few minutes worth of 30sec exposures, 10 darks (had to leave in a hurry) and 20 flats/bias.

Edit: Shot with a 500mm f6.3 camera lens and a stock Sony A6000 on a Star Adventurer.

Edited with Siril, then Starnet++, then Photoshop and some minor adjustments in Lightroom.

Feedback appreciated!

I took 230 11s ISO1600 f/1.8 esposures and one 2min ISO600 f/1.8 for the foreground.

Both with my Nikon Z5 and Nikkor Z 24mm f/1.8 S

For post processing I used sequator and affinity photo 2

• 156x 60s
• ISO 3600
• dual narrowband filter
• Bortle 5
• Samyang 135mm @f2.8
• Fuji X-T5 (unmodified)
• Star Adventurer 2i
• processed with Siril and PS
• BXT, NXT, SXT

8min 400ISO f/2.8 16mm

I used my Nikon Z5 and the OG startracker (DIY startracker)

First image with my new Star adventurer GTI tracker

Image of the Monkeyhead nebula I took last night.

Equipment:

• Lumix G85
• Lumix 100-300 f4-f5.6
• Sky watcher Star adventurer GTI Image:

~ 1.95 hours of exposure

• 100mm zoom (200mm ff. eq.)
• 30 sec, f/5, 1600 ISO
• 233 Lights
• 50 Biases, Darks, Flats

Stacked and using Siril with Starnet++

With the new mount Im seeing a lot less walking noise compared to the old one (Omegon Mount MiniTrack LX3 Essentials) and its a hole lot easier to get setup because of the easy polar alignment and goto.

Can anyone explain to me the horizontal stripe of noise at the top of the image? Its only red/yellowish noise and only there. Part of it might still be nebula, but especially to the left is a lot of noise. There are more stripes like this all over the image when bumping up the contrast and saturation. Some of them are more green and blue and some like this.

Canon 90d, canon EF 200mm f2.8 l ( @f4) Star adventurer 2i, with a 30mm guidescope 30s exposures

Equipment:

• Samyang 135mm @f2.8
• Fuji X-T5 (unmodified)
• dual narrowband clip in filter
• Star Adventurer 2i

Image:

• 735 x 60s lights @ISO 800
• 409 x 60s lights narrowband @ISO 3200
• Bortle 2
• stacked in Siril
• BXT, NXT
• final composition in PS

I need to get more integration time, but already really happy.

Amazing what you can do in a Bortle 5!

Hey everyone, I've been a long time photographer on a hiatus. Ever since learning about the existence of EQ mounts I have been excited to get back into photography and try the astro side of it.

I have a 300mm f/2.8 lens for my DSLR and am wondering if that focal length is any good. Thanks!

I realized half way through the shoot I should leap through a couple frames. This was my favorite. Nikon D810. wide angle. Most of my aurora shots are from the October 2024 storm. I spent most of it driving around looking for angles and trying to track the intense bursts and different colors.

Nikon D810 for all the aurora shots, different parts of the Schoodic National Park loop. ISO settings timer settings were adjusted on the fly due to the severity of the storm.

Schoodic National park. Nikon D810. 20mm. 2.7 aperture. 8 seconds.

Image of the Monkeyhead nebula I took last night.

Equipment:

• Lumix G85
• Lumix 100-300 f4-f5.6
• Omegon Mount MiniTrack LX3 Essentials

Image:

• 5 sec, f/5.6, 6400 ISO
• 1634 Lights
• 50 Biases, Darks, Flats

Stacked using Siril and edited in GIMP

Got my pictures of the total lunar eclipse together, this was my first attempt at doing a final collage photo at each phase, which I kind of bunged up the timings a little bit but it still turned out good enough.

Wow thankyou everyone! I was not expecting to get 280+ upvotes

Photo taken at 6:32UTC from Burlington Ontario with a 4" f/9.8 refractor.

No eclipse glasses needed for this one!

Tonight, a total lunar eclipse will be visible from all of North and South America (except of course where I am, which is cloudy). The full eclipse begins at 06:26 UTC on the 14th, and will last for about an hour. The partial phases before and after this are also cool to watch. If you've never seen a lunar eclipse before, I highly recommend setting an alarm for tonight and at least going out and taking a peek at it (The next lunar eclipse visible from North America is in 2026.) Light pollution does NOT matter for a lunar eclipse, as long as you have a clear view of the moon in the sky.

Here's a good site with time zone conversions, as well as specific alt/az numbers for your location: https://www.timeanddate.com/eclipse/lunar/2025-march-14

Please keep our community rules in mind when sharing your eclipse pics (titles, acquisition/processing info, etc). I can't wait to see what everyone is going to capture! (definitely try out some HDR stuff if you can!)

I took a few pictures of the most common objects and am using a Lumix G85 with a 100-300 (200-600mm eq.) lens. That is around 2.2lbs/1kg (Yes, that is a micro four thirds sensor) together with a Omegon Mount MiniTrack LX3 Essentials. It is a very cheap mount which you have to tention manually and it only runs for 1h at a time, polar alignment is hard due to the cheap "straw" you have to look through.

I really like this hobby and want to upgrade to a newer mount and the Sky-watcher Star Adventurer GTi looks really good for the price. However, I am worried about it's max payload of just 11lbs/5kg. For me it is more than enough, but I want to know if it will be enough along the way if I upgrade to heavier camera or even a dedicated one with a proper telescope.

Can someone tell me about the Sky-watcher with a heavier load or pro-level gear on a different mount and how heavy it is and if you think this mount will be enouh for it.