I got a P1S for my family as an early Christmas present. I'm interested in creating parts that may eventually be used in cars, so I'm trying to get things ready for full-time ABS and ASA production.

This is my 4th print using ABS. First time was an okay benchy which needed some flow calibration and displayed some slight bowing at the base. Second time was a good benchy which seemed dialed in. Third print was an articulated Onyx Pokemon which seemed great.

I've printed the main body for the bento box in 3DF transparent black ABS.

Some of my tweaked settings for success were:

• Blanket over the printer. This is in my garage and temperatures dip. The blanket helped with the warping.
• Setting the bed temp to 100C and setting the level to around 40mm down from the top with the chamber fan at 30%. Did this for around 15 minutes to get everything inside up to temperature.
• Nozzle temp first layer of 260C
• Nozzle temp other layers of 270C
• Bed temp constant 100C

I plan on printing the other components and sourcing the parts spread out across December, so I'll post updates!

Hey, this is my first Printables contest entry - large (16 inch/40 cm) christmas balls that print in multiple pieces. They can be assembled is hollow frameworks, or around a playground ball for extra color.

Hello! I am a former anycubic mega s victim, got it gifted by a friend(because he didn't use it) and got sucked into the rabbithole of 3d printing. Printed a few parts after calibrating and cleaning it up, but then got punched in the face with onslaught of problems that dont make sense. Tried to fix 'em all, but in result just didn't get to print anything for long. Now it shortcircuits itself when it starts up. So gonna salvage the thing for what I can.

In the meanwhile, I want to find a machines to look at that will increase my skills and knowledge further, not to just shortcut to just print stuff. Having available database of known problems will help a lot, that was the main issue I had with the mega S. Also something not expensive like the prusa mk4.(less than 400$ probably) Any recommendations for such a machine?

Sorry for such a question, if there are treads on reddit or lemmy, send me links to them, I will be happy to read them!

The legs broke as always but now I just glue the pieces in and it's fine!

In my day our memes were in two dimensions, which was the style at the time

Multi Color Homer Simpson Meme Ornament.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/63272#profileId-66083
Printed on my Bambu X1C w/ AMS

Currently test printing a separated version so those without Bambu can give it a go.

I have been printing with PETG on glass for a little while now, and have gone through almost an entire roll. Yesterday I had my first print stick so hard that it delaminated the glass :(. I stopped using hairspray as it made the prints not stick at all, and printing bare glass was just fine. But something about yesterdays print made the glass give up. Is this how PETG + Glass normally fails? Works perfectly for years, and then suddenly fails?

Probably the most satisfying print so far.
almost full plate, entire model done in one go.
It's a walker by Station Forge.

Some parts reattached in the corners as you can see, i'm assuming because they managed to peel off the fep there down the line.

Very odd failure anyway, i'll just reslice, and retry.

Pretty mean how hard this one was to detect. I paused and checked the print and looking at a full plate of solid supports made me feel safe :(

I'm thinking of getting the Bambu Labs P1S, anything that I should be aware of? Anybody got one? Thoughts?

Want to keep your filament dry while you print, but too cheap to shell out for a dry box? Make your own! My house goes through Tidy Cat tubs at a rapid rate, and they seal pretty well. I was using a PVC pipe structure on the inside, but I think these skate bearing roller stands will work better. Throw in a few desiccant containers and drill a couple holes in the side, and you're all set! (Humidity monitor optional.)

I've been running my Creality CR6 SE (kickstarter edition) for a few years now, and now considering an upgrade to add to the fleet. But I'm way out of the loop on what would be a good robust and reliable option these days. Would love some recommendations on what to look for in a new printer, and maybe which printers the community would agree are solid choices. I already have a good resin printer, so specifically looking at just FDM printers.

Ok, so I know nothing about 3d printing, but since we became empty nester, am looking for a new hobby. My wife us taking up pottery, but thats not for me, and 3d printing seems like a good bit of fun.

Started looking at videos and comparisons and all that, and the Ender 3 came up, but it seems smaller, so looked at the 5 plus. Then I started to wonder if there might be better options, while staying under $1000. Bambu, Prusa, Anycubic...what should I look at if I want larger prints but am a beginner.

Are consumer level 3D printers able to print plastic objects of similar quality to ones produced using injection molding? Or is 3D printing useful mostly for the prototyping stage before a design is finalized and a steel mold is produced for injection molding?

Hi, I'm new to printing. I got myself a Kobra 2 and it was printing fine when I got it. But recently it started to knock the prints off at random times. I have done several recalibrations, adjusted the Z offset up and down. What I have noticed is that all of these models seem to have a small overflow of material which I'm guessing the nozzle is bumping into. But I have no idea what causes it. I'll post the latest print that failed, there the extra material is more pronounced than usual. Any suggestions what I should adjust? (Btw I'm using Octoprint)

Got lazy but have posted once about my Extruder being the reason why Octoprint or Firmware is not starting the Print.

I compiled my Marlin Firmware by adding

#define DEFAULT_Kp 16.44
#define DEFAULT_Ki 1.58
#define DEFAULT_Kd 42.75

and it starts, but it does weirdly extrude. When I hit "Extrude 5mm" Manually while nothing is running then it seems like a nice constant flow, but when Printing it somehow stocks, retracts or smth when trying to print. At first I thought its TPU and a new abstract material I have never touched but this currently is the good old Black PLA from Creality that I always used.

I use Cura and just used the default settings for PLA like always.

I've had a fun few days designing this in OpenSCAD. My elementary and high school trigonometry is definitely coming back to me!

Downloaded from https://www.printables.com/model/437536-floating-plastic-ducks.

Right, so at a glance alot of the posts here are for FDM printing, and while I love my Ender 3 and have no problems with it (anymore...) I really want to get into resin printing. I have a 2 year old Elegoo Mars 2 Mono that I've used a handful of times, because each time I try to print a test model instead of something that looks like a chess piece, all I get is a circle of solid resin about the thickness of a US quarter. I'm kinda discouraged by this, since I know plenty of people get into resin printing and love the level of detail they can get on it. Yes, I know I can get similar details with FDM, and sometimes I do, but I want to expand my printing horizons as well. I've tried printing at different ambient temperatures, reslicing the model with different slicers, and warming the resin before use, but I can't seem to get more then a disk from my printer. Does anyone have some advice or insight into this issue?

Should i worry? Any suggestions for a fix? Didnt find anything because i dont know what search terms to use...

Edit: Thanks for your responses. I talked to my brother, he told me the retraction speed was too slow (25mm/s), i changed it to 40mm/s and realized i activated the wrong printer profile. Silly me. Ill do a test print now. Ill look into your suggestions if this wont help.

I created a Lemmy logo keychain for everyone to enjoy!

Prusa MINI is getting Input Shaper and Pressure Advance! No idea when it's gonna be released as a stable version, but still quite exciting news for MINI owners (at least I was definitely waiting for Input Shaper).

Note that the firmware is in alpha, don't install it unless you know what you're doing.

If you don't know what it is:

Input Shaper is a feature designed to reduce ringing (also known as echoing or ghosting) and overshoots during printing by smoothing out the accelerations and decelerations of the printer’s movements. It works by analyzing the printer’s movements and applying a filter to the input signals to reduce the ringing effect. Thanks to faster travel speed and accelerations, it can also minimize stringing. It also enables faster printing.

Pressure Advance aims to improve the quality of printed parts by compensating for the pressure changes in the nozzle during printing. Pressure Advance together with Input Shaper enables the printing of better-looking models, reducing ringing, overshoots and issues with inconsistent filament extrusion. They also enable faster printing.

It's probably gonna be a while, but it's still great news!