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This is the first true prototype of the camera grip. The incorporated magnet holds very well. Next step is figuring out the best way to install the shutter button so that it can be removed for battery replacement.
3D Printing
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There's uselessly tiny gem fragments in them thar ancient alluvial gravel beds.
Model is bought from: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/gold-sluice-box-v2-modular-expandible-included-4-mats-classifier although easy enough to design yourself. It works great though and the price is fair if you do want one.
Sluice body is petg, mats are tpu as I thought it would make cleaning easier. TBH petg would probably be a better candidate as long as you did a high contrast material. The flex doesn't add much as it's short sections that fit in a pan anyway.
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Designed this coaster, because I wanted something tidy looking and dual color, without filament changes
(media.printables.com)
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I had new progressive lenses made, but the old ones are still fine and don’t have a scratch. They’re just a bit weak at near distance, but otherwise perfectly serviceable.
So I made new frames for them because I don’t like to throw away things that work.
All assembled, the frames weigh 3.5 grams, and 14 grams with the lenses mounted.
This was printed with a Prusa Mk4 and regular PLA at 0.15 mm layer height. The hinges use simple 10x1 pins - and I worked my magic to print the holes horizontally to the final dimension with interference fit, so no reaming or drilling is necessary. These glasses are straight out of the printer with zero rework.
I think they look pretty good as they are. If anybody notices they’re 3D-printed, I’ll say I’m gunning for that particular style 🙂
The front of the frames prints in 11 minutes and both temples in 12 minutes. I could break and make a new pair every day for the rest of my life and it would still be faster and cheaper than going to Specsavers only once.
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I've printed similar objects with a different colored PLA, but I ran out of it and switched to this.
Is it possible that this could be influencing the outcome?
I have tried reducing the printing speed by 50%, but this did not seem to have a significant impact.
[SOLUTION] The problem was a loose screw. The offending part as well as the new result are pictured below. It's not perfect, which I guess is actually a part of the model this time, but it's good enough for my purposes and way better than what it was before.
I figured this out by twisting the Z-axis thingy manually all the way to the top to see if I could feel any issues. Towards the top, it would start to 'skip', where I would turn and pretty much nothing would happen. I assume this has to do with the lack of lube at the top because my prints rarely go that high. I checked to see if the screws were loose, and sure enough, the top one was. I tightened it up and now my printer is printing like the beast I remember!
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First time I printed something made in FreeCAD. It's a table lamp for our balcony, more like a mood light than a real lamp hehe. Its made from 3 parts (base, tube and a hat). Base and tube are CA glued and I used some insulating tape to fit a hat tightly. The lamp is about 240 mm tall and its powered from 9V battery. Battery case and steel weight are glued with some blue tack (white tack lol) to hold it in the place. There are 2 LEDs and resistor soldered together in series. I might replace the leds with lower powered ones if battery goes out too fast, but time will tell. Im also thinking about different hats, but first iteration was quick and dirty, I love it!
More pics:
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I was printing PLA, it looks ok up to a certain height (although it was warping slightly), but then it becomes ugly. I will do a test print of the same height, butaybe you already have an idea.
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What's the maximum layer height I can achieve on a consumer 3D Printer?
I'm using a bambulab a1 mini more specifically but I'm interested in all answers to that question.
Personally, I think the look of the extrusion can be quite nice if it's not trying to be hidden – especially with transparent PETG or something similar.
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You can see where around corners and even some straight runs it is peeling up. I'm running first layer at an agonizing 15 mm/s. Using hatchbox pla filament, just dried in dehydrator. 200° nozzle and 70° bed. The glass is freshly cleaned with soap and water, I just did several atomic pulls, I've trammed at different heights using a feeler gauge, and absolutely nothing is working. Any one have any ideas?
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