I'm having this issue on my front wheel, where the lever on my wheel's axle, that locks it in place will pull the entire wheel (and thus the brake disc) so far to the side, that the brake disc hits the brake pad, even when the brake pad is at the most far position. How can I prevent my wheel from going to far to one side when turning the locking lever?

Which side of these (absolutly terrible) calipers is the leading edge? I'm being stubborn about thowing this bike together with zero money.

I commute to work on my bike, not very far just a bit over three miles each way. I record each ride for fun just to see if I'm getting any faster. A few weeks ago I was closing down and had to go pee fairly bad, but decided to try and experiment and held my pee until I got home in order to see if the pressure on my bladder would encourage me to ride faster. The average moving speed on my way home for the week before was 14.8 mp/h with the lowest average moving speed ride being 14.5 mp/h and the highest being 15.3 mp/h. On the day with a full bladder my average moving speed was 15.7 mp/h and I had a road closure that detoured me an extra quarter mile, so even with a ever so slightly longer ride I absolutely crushed it on my way home. I decided that with my short commute the extra few seconds I shaved off my ride wasn't worth the discomfort so I did not continue the experiment to get better data.

Was a real good ride. About a 70 mile overnighter.

I put a new tire on my rear wheel and it was the tightest fitting tire I've ever seen. Extremely hard to wrestle on there but I eventually got it. Now, though, it's not quite seated right all the way around. There's about a 3-spoke length just on the one side where the little textured edge, instead of peaking out from behind the rim, dives down a bit behind it. Is this a problem worth fixing or should I just ride on it? Will it eventually fix itself? Otherwise, what do I do to fox it?

Here's a vodeo and some pictures

https://drive.proton.me/urls/4NRWGSFBRM#-Sz--Bw29n1a

https://drive.proton.me/urls/V08ZW5DS8C#BBsUhnp3RHTn

https://drive.proton.me/urls/TZDW1C4BP8#KqihzE1AvxHd

https://drive.proton.me/urls/7VB6VNN618#QMArt_okU2Mb

Edit: I fixed it! Ok, for future reference, here's what you do. Wait until the hottest day of the year. Bike home from work (5 miles). Deflate the tire until it starts to deform with the weight of the bike. Roll it back amd forth across the problem area, making sure it's deforming as much as possible with each pass. Include some lateral movement while you roll back amd forth. Then inflate to max pressure (in this case 50 psi) and it'll pop right back into place.

Recenty grew tired of my old bike, so I bought a quite nice second hand bike, that I got to ride about 500 meters before number 1 son wanted a go and promptly claimed my bike as his.

So back to the bike adverts and my wife is looking over my shoulder and sees a bike she likes, I put my phone down walked out of house, crossed the road and dunno took maybe 20 steps? hard left into the trees and picked up the exact bike wife saw in the advert...

I mean it's blue instead of purple, but otherwise the exact model. Bored teens had been cutting it up and jumping on the wheels, but the bones seemed ok, so I slapped on some 29 inch wheels that I also found in the same spot, a worn 700c tyre (from the bike that started all this) was shoved on the front (I don't think it was supposed to fit) and the rear 2.25 inch keep air in so that was used, it didn't fit, but I didn't have another option, so 20 minutes of shaving with a pliers and at the cost of a massive blister it turns freely! Seat from a kids 16incher, hit the deraliuer (sp) with a spanner until it was mostly straight an off we rolled :)

I'll buy a set of new 2.1" tyres (wife likes the chunky look) later on.

So everyone has a new bike except me :(

I'm tempted to try a 32er

Does anybody know what the name of this feature is?

This is the back side of a hyperglide hub where the hub body engages the wheel hub. I'm trying to upgrade to 10 speed. Original on the left, new part on the right. There's 10 teeth on the old one and 15 on the new one.

New one obviously won't fit due to the difference in the number of teeth, but adding 10 tooth to my searches doesn't bring up anything helpful

I recently landed in a small town that gets a decent amount of snow in the winter, and commute on my bike with thin road tires. I'm thinking I want a fat bike with some nice thick tires to deal with the snow days, but local used options are limited and new bikes are fairly pricey. I have a bit more options in the used departed if I can go with more standard mountain bike. Are regular mountain bikes a viable option for commuting in snow? We had a very weak winter this last year with 7 inches all season but from some locals I've spoken too they said it can get up to 6 or 7 inches a month and only main thoroughfars are plowed, if amount of snow makes a difference in what sort of bike would be most suitable.

Appreciate any advice from those of you who ride in the snow regularly.

Hello everyone, I hope this is not the wrong place to ask. I’ve just changed my bike’s brakes (caliper type mechanism) because one of the two cable jackets did this (the black part correctly stops at the brake lever but the central part is smaller and is able to enter the brake lever). After changing to a new one at the front, I tensioned the back one and it broke the same way after a few tests. Am I doing everything wrong? (The bike is really old and rusty but seems to me I can only upload 1 pic per post)

Edit: link to some more photos

https://postimg.cc/gallery/pzDvqxK

Hello everyone!

After several years and thousands of miles of commuting by bike, I recently installed a mid-drive e-bike conversion kit on my gravel bike. For the most part, the experience has been absolutely fantastic. However, I'm having some pretty frustrating difficulties with the drive-train, and I've exhausted my expertise.

The bike came with Shimano Claris, which is certainly not the most robust drive-train. When I first installed the kit, the chain was skipping over the cassette pretty much any time the bike went under load. The cassette already had several thousand miles on it, so I replaced the entire drive-train (chain, cassette, and derailleur) with brand new Claris components. This worked great for about 200 miles (~4 days), but then the cassette started skipping again.

I replaced the cassette again and pretty much immediately snapped a chain. I again replaced the chain, and about 50 miles later snapped it again. I brought it to a local bike shop, that once again replaced the drive-train (this time with higher-end components) after noticing one of the cassette rings had been cracked down the middle. I brought it home, only to snap another chain within 50 miles, stranding me several miles from home.

Funnily enough the components are cheap enough that I'm still spending less than I would on gas/car maintenance, but obviously this is something I want resolve regardless.

I'm in the process of looking into more robust drive-train options. My priorities are durability and low maintenance cost/difficulty, but I don't care as much about weight/efficiency. I'm putting several times the power you'd typically put through a drive-train, so I'm not sure most of the go-to higher-end options for typical road cyclists would be sufficient.

I've seen some people discuss more exotic drive-trains like belt drives and internally geared hubs. Those sound intriguing, but also very complex to retrofit. It seems to me like there has to be some sort of drive-train with a larger/thicker cassette and chain, at the expense of having fewer gears. Perhaps something like a belt drive really is the safer option?

I'm willing to spend quite a bit on this, but I want to be confident it would actually be a reliable long term solution.

I appreciate your advice here,

"Will salt water damage my drivetrain?"

cross-posted from: https://feddit.uk/post/50143863

This is my custom 1981 Mongoose SuperGoose..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP2ZRLeRdR0

The view of a 2024 Crust Romanceür from West Seattle at dawn, reproducing an earlier post with a new frame.

The bike was rebuilt after getting t-boned by a red-light runner in January of 2024 which destroyed the bike, broke my pelvis, snapped my left femur, turned my left tibia and fibula into a jigsaw puzzle of seven major pieces, and shattered my right knee's condyle.

Now I've got 39 titanium pins, screws, bolts, rods, and a plate inside me, but am back on the bike. First ride was December of 2024, 11 months after getting hit. Nearly every part was salvaged from the old bike, only having to replace mudguards and a tacoed rear wheel.

At some point I'll have to put together a timeline post of the wrecked bike, x-rays, and this rebuilt one.

And yes, that year-old chain is stretched to hell and actively destroying my brand new cassette. Don't shame me for it - look how shiny it is!

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/46818503

I built this using a cheap bike trailer for hauling kids that I picked up off the curb and an old steel bed frame.

The idea is that I can use it to haul bikes around that I am working on for customers in my local community.

My next goals are to:

1. Move the wheels backwards by about a foot to improve handling and reduce scraping when going down curbs and driveways
2. Obtain a bike hauler that attaches to the roof or tow hitch of a car to allow me to tow more than one bicycle at a time

This version is awesome though because it was made mainly using junk and swearing :)

I bought it because I liked how it looks. It's ok to ride too, weighing only slightly more than Portugal. Needs a bit of tlc.

I have rush hydraulic brakes on my bike and am looking for a kit to bleed them. Local store says only park tools have the adapter. They expect me to buy the expensive tools, buy new brakes or have them do the work.

Do any of you know of an affordable tool set to do the work?

We are pretty stumped. My 11 year old outgrew his last bike, and rather than just buying a new one, we went to a local bike operation called the "Sacramento Bike Kitchen" that restores bikes and teaches bike repair. They sell refurbished bikes, but if you are getting a kid bike, it is free, and if you buy an adult bike for a kid, they give you $100 off. We decided to turn this into a learning opportunity and got a mountain bike for $70 (so free) that had a decent frame, but a lot of parts were in pretty rough shape.

We brought it home and went on Amazon and got new treads and inner tubes for the tires. The gear shifters were pretty broken (it is a 3x8). So we went to Amazon and got new gear shifters, handlebar grip shifters, but when we replaced them we could only get the rear derailleur to go the distance of six out of the eight gears, even with adjusting the barrel adjuster ane confirming that the low and high set screws were correct. No matter how far we used the gear shifter, it would stop at 6 gears; it's like the barrel adjuster would move the range up and down, so the shifter would go from gear 3 to 8, or 1 to 6, but would never reach 1 to 8.

I then started watching more YouTube videos, including everything by park tool, and found some advice that it's possible the derailleur is incompatible with the gear shifter. We then decided to replace the rear derailleur, but the new one had the same problem. We then got some advice that it's possible the rear cassette was incompatible, so we went and found a rear cassette that is listed to be compatible on Amazon and replaced that as well. From all the adjusting, we also mangled the cable and thought that a thumb shifter would be better, so we replaced the gear shifters again. As long as we were replacing everything we decided to replace all the cable housings as well.

At this point we have now replaced the rear derailleur, the rear cassette, the chain, all the cable housings, the gear shifters with thumb shifters, and then we have also replaced the seat, the handlebar grips, the kick stand, and the treads and inner tubes. At this point, the bike is in perfect condition except for the stupid rear derailleur. We are totally stumped and before we go back to the bike kitchen (which has limited hours and is kind of far from where we live) I am looking for some advice. Everything I read is pointing to the fact that it should be the barrel adjuster to get me where I need to be, but every time I do it, it shifts the gear shifting range up and down, but doesn't stretch it. This is with two different gear shifters we have tried.

Below are the links to the parts that we currently have.

First shifter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DG38PK1F?psc=1

Derailleur: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09B9JY6K6?psc=1

Rear Casette: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09B95PT1B?psc=1

Second Shifter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0C5CNRXP4?psc=1

Any advice here is really appreciated.

Some background... this summer I'm spending 2-3 weeks with my folks back in my old hometown, and will likely be doing so every summer for the foreseeable future. They have a bike trail that connects to much of the city right in their backyard, so I'd really like to take advantage of that.

However, given that I'm talking about a relatively short amount of time, I really don't want to spend much on a bike that will sit unused for ~50 weeks of the year. I was checking out Craigslist, and was surprised by the number of bikes I saw available for USD$150 or less.

Obviously when buying a used bike at this price, you're making some significant compromises. But I'd like ask, if you all were buying a bike in that price range, what parts / aspects of the bike would you look at in particular? What might be something that would be a big red flag?

I'm capable of doing some basic maintenance and repair if I have a guide, but I'm not capable of doing major fixes.

(and apologies for the North American defaultism in the price range, essentially I'm asking for what you'd look for in an old, used bike that isn't a waste of money but not necessarily something you'd want to ride more than just occasionally, feel free to think of that in your own local currency).