this post was submitted on 15 Sep 2025
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ADHD memes

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submitted 4 months ago by Stamets@lemmy.world to c/adhd@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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[–] UniversalBasicJustice@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 4 months ago (1 children)

Can you break up the calibrating process into shorter steps? I'm mostly unfamiliar with 3D printing, what's all involved?

[–] onslaught545@lemmy.zip 2 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) (2 children)

Kinda, but they all need to be done before I can start printing again. I replaced the entire hot-end, so I basically have to redo everything:

  • Rotation distance (distance traveled per one rotation of motor)
  • Hot-end PID calibration (controls heating)
  • Z-offset (how far above the bed the nozzle is from when the z-stop triggers)
  • Resonance compensation (printing fast can cause ghosting in the prints from resonance frequency)
  • Pressure advance (reduces nozzle ooze)

And all of that is just so I can print a mount to use a magnetic z-stop (normal is contact probe), then I get to do it all over again.

Then I need to do temperature and acceleration towers for each filament material.

[–] UniversalBasicJustice@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 points 4 months ago (1 children)

Must the magnetic z-stop mount be printed on your machine specifically?

If yes; do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by xmas

If no; print one at a local makerspace/public library then do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by Thanksgiving!

[–] onslaught545@lemmy.zip 2 points 4 months ago

I mean, it doesn't have to be, but printing upgrades for your printer is part of the fun. But my job does have a maker space I could use.

Honestly the calibration would only take an hour or so, I just have to get around to it. The longest part will be setting up Klipper on my pi4 to replace the less powerful ODROID I'm currently using, because I plan on starting from scratch with the config.