UPDATE:
TLDR; The answer to my question is -- you don't 😜.
Thanks to everyone that entertained my question. It seems that without drilling, it would require a seemingly impossible balancing and compression act to slide everything back in.
See more pictures and commentary below at https://lemmy.world/post/39906128/20917330.
----- ORIGINAL POST -----
How do I reassemble a Master Lock 140?
Black Friday was my excuse to finally get some lock picking tools. After trying an acrylic lock and a practice lock, I decided to go after one of the Master Lock 140s that I had laying around.
I was able to get it open with a single pick and then a rake.
Then I tried a comb. I went from "yay it's turning", to "oh, it's really turning", to "uh, oh, it's still turning". 🤣
Not really realizing what was happening until it was too late, I ended up removing the whole cylinder (is that what it's called?) as pins fell out, without paying attention to which pin goes where.
The shackle wasn't actually unlocked at that point, so I fiddle around inside the lock some more and fully unlocked everything.
I assume I inadvertently started the process to rekey the lock, but now what? How do I put everything back together again?
I know the pins are out of order, but I assume short key pins go with the taller parts of the key, so I'm thinking it's something like 1+B, 2+A, 3+C, 4+D. I seems like 5 only fits into #6.
My main questions are: (1) Can I just shove everything, or do I have to worry about whatever it was inside the lock that actually unlocked the shackle? I don't know if it has to be in a certain position or not.
(2) From using the CI practice lock, I assume the process is to put in the key pin, pointy end down, then driver pin, then spring. Is that right?
(3) Do I start from the back (i.e., #6), putting the pins in, pushing the spring down and using the lock body to keep the spring compressed?
(4) Related to (1), does the cylinder need to go in at a certain orientation (or avoid a certain orientation?
(5) Finally, what is the correct pin order if I want to keep using that same key? Was my guess correct, 1B, 2 A or C, 3 A or C, 4D?
@thenetnetofthenet Usually there is a larger cap for shackle latches on one side near top. I don't have a 140... but image of an old G. C. W & Co. padlock that shows caps. Pretty much all brass padlocks with just a core fit into the body like that are built this way🤷♂️
This is a four pin core, the fifth pin is for retaining the core and maybe limiting rotation.
It also looks like Master used a 5 pin core on your lock but didn't populate the 5th hole🙄
oh, I see. I was expecting them to be a lot harder to see. I can't easily see these caps on the side of the body.
@thenetnetofthenet The rough sanding done when they're made hides the caps quite well.
Haven't tried this... I'd try sanding the side down to a smoother, shiny surface and see that helps to reveal them🤷♂️
FYI I did sand the side a little bit, but either I still need to keep going, or there's something I'm missing. It's not that easy to see in the pictures, but I am sanding some of the coating away for sure, and I feel like it's starting to sand off some of the actual body material. I'm still not seeing anything close to your picture.
Oh well, thanks for the tips! I'll keep the lock as a souvenir and at some point continue sanding and tinkering with it.