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GOOD games with female protagonists?
(beehaw.org)
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It's older, but The Longest Journey is good. Unfortunately, the final game in the series kinda sucks.
While it's an ensemble, most people would agree that the main character of Final Fantasy VI is a woman—they just might disagree about which woman is the lead.
I also liked the first Xenosaga game, but again, it's a series that goes pretty badly downhill.