Woodworking

Thank you for noticing that. The biggest trick there is keeping track of which face is which, especially on that little septum between the drawers.

A detail shot showing a little more of the construction:

Thank you very much! Welcome to the community!

What kind of wood is it?

Mostly black walnut; the panels on the sides and doors are walnut veneer plywood, the back, bottom shelf and drawer bottoms are maple plywood, and the drawer sides and internal framing is poplar.

What all went into making it?

First I drew it up in FreeCAD, making heavy use of the spreadsheet function to calculate a lot of dimensions. I bought the lumber from a hardwood outlet near Greensboro, which came rough sawn, so I used my jointer and planer to mill it straight, square and true.

The main bones of the frame are joined with mortise and tenons. I cut the mortises with my router table with a straight cutting bit, and the tenons I cut on the table saw with an ordinary combo blade and my shop made tenoning jig.

The interior frames are doweled together, which is done with a cheap self-centering doweling jig and a hand drill. The frames are screwed and glued to cleats on the inside

This is the first time I've done grain-matched drawer fronts. The face frame and drawer fronts are cut from one board, which took some planning, layout, and a lot of "okay make sure to cut this on the correct side." The face frame, here just the thin boards around the drawers, are attached with biscuits.

Would you use dovetails for this?

Yes I did, the drawer fronts are attached to the drawer boxes with half-blind dovetails cut on that Porter Cable dovetail jig you can see under the workbench. The backs of the drawers are set in dados in the sides. The drawers are side hung, center guided, no hardware, all wood.

A couple projects ago I built a night stand held together almost entirely with dovetail joints, so it's feasible to do, I just did mortise and tenons here as they were more practical for this project.

The doors are made with a cope-and-stick router bit set; two matching router bits cut the groove for the panel and the decorative moulding in one go, and its mate copes a negative profile in the ends of the horizontal boards. Doing that cope cut safely and accurately takes a special jig, the others are just a moulding operation. Test cut on scrap until you get the fit right then send it. They're hung with Euro cup hinges. They don't make a hinge that's perfect for this job, so I had to cut rather large mortises in the front posts so I could use face frame mount flush hinges. I did that with a router and a template.

the top (not pictured here) is edge glued solid 5/4 walnut with a simple chamfer detail.

It took about a week so far, and It'll take another week to prep and finish it.