- I would try this.
- I'm sure Amazon would have them. Or Ebay. Not a fan of Amazon, but they are there for about 30 bucks a pop.
- Check if you have upower installed and it is reporting accurately. Had a near similar issue and a upower install solved it for me.
Hardware
This is a community dedicated to the hardware aspect of technology, from PC parts, to gadgets, to servers, to industrial control equipment, to semiconductors.
Rules:
- Posts must be relevant to electronic hardware
- No NSFW content
- No hate speech, bigotry, etc
Thanks, I'll try to do that tomorrow. Also never heard of upower, so will check that tomorrow.
Amazon and Ebay are not great options for me due to some toll rules where I live. Final prices tend to be quite a lot higher, and shipping takes ages. But of course if I am unable to locate them locally, it might be my only option. I did eventually find one from a producer called CoreParts - need to investigate whether they are legit.
all aftermarket batteries are shit. one of the manifestations of shittyness is that once they're below a certain threshold, the battery controller won't charge them no more. you're advised to never let 'em drop below 20% of capacity. or else.
if returning the things is not an option, you can open them up, find where the cells are connected to the controller and charge them there with an external PSU of commensurate voltage; i.e. if the battery is rated at 12V, you charge em with 12V and say 0.5A whilst constantly monitoring the battery's voltage with an instrument. shouldn't take long, maybe coupla minutes. once it reaches 10-11V, disconnect, plug in to the laptop and it should start charging.
here's me charging a "dead" macbook battery; worked just fine afterwards.
I suspected that it might be the case. I have wanted for some time to setup a galvanostatic charge/discharge system at home for battery diagnostics, but haven't found the time yet to do so. Maybe this is the required nudge I need...