cross-posted from: https://jlai.lu/post/12356398

Last session had great conditions

First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.

Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.

Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.

Just finished this one, can strongly recommend it. (Others are Barbarian days and Wingnut's complete surfing).

From ancient Peru to tow-in, from Hawaiian finless to channeled shortboards, from Duke Kahanamoku to Lane Beachley, from army cutoffs to Quicksilver, stomp parties to world cup events, this book covers everything surf until the 2010s.

A rather easy read, provides the needed dose when too sick to surf.

Edited typos

Bonjour à toustes.

Comme mon pseudo l'indique, je suis un male cis hétero qui fait des sports de brute viriliste.

Ceci dit, j'ai un cerveau des sentiment et énormément de respect. Donc mon premier poste est lié à la découverte. Il y a 5 minutes d'un film dont j'ai hâte qu'il sort et soit disponible, Sur la vie d'une femme ex leadeur mondiale d'un des sports les plus virilistes dans un des pays les plus toutphobes.

cross-posted from: https://jlai.lu/post/12775145

Movie: Torren Martyn - REFLECTION

That's ~~bodhi~~ Torren Martyn

That's ~~bodhi~~ Torren Martyn

cross-posted from: https://jlai.lu/post/12356398

First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.

Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.

Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.

First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.

Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.

Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.

Today rode down the line in shoulder high waves.

I can trim and feel at ease in hip high, working to carving. Also consistent take off & dtl surf in waist high.

Maybe one day I'll leave beginner stage. (But I'll always be a kook, just because I can).

Just thought I'd share and maybe get this community running.