Just finished this one, can strongly recommend it. (Others are Barbarian days and Wingnut's complete surfing).

From ancient Peru to tow-in, from Hawaiian finless to channeled shortboards, from Duke Kahanamoku to Lane Beachley, from army cutoffs to Quicksilver, stomp parties to world cup events, this book covers everything surf until the 2010s.

A rather easy read, provides the needed dose when too sick to surf.

Edited typos

That's ~~bodhi~~ Torren Martyn

cross-posted from: https://jlai.lu/post/12356398

First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.

Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.

Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.

How is your local spot? what type of crowd is it? How reliable is it? Any funny stories or myths?