Wait. An email just to get a download link AND a cloud account. Fuck that.

Naan! I love a fresh batch.

Absolutely this. Plus I want nothing to do with any kind of car that collects data on me, requires any kind of subscription, or has any kind of screen.

I’m no Luddite, but fuck the enshittification of cars. Combustion engines are a huge problem, but fuck these new cars. Electric or otherwise

Motherfucking Zaslav. Fuck that asshole.

#! /Merry/Christmas

:wq

;)

‘Google trashes its “DRM for the Web” API for now’ should be the actual headline

I have. I won’t buy ssds or sd cards from Amazon anymore for this exact reason. I got counterfeits twice. Once with an sd card and once with an ssd. Now I buy from B&H for stuff like that so I know I’m getting what I ordered.

I was able to return both counterfeits to Amazon so I didn’t lose any money, but I don’t want the hassle of having to test and verify shit I buy to make sure it’s what it’s supposed to be.

Edit: I try to avoid Amazon entirely, but sometimes it’s the only option.

What’s going to be really important for wildlife is moreso the lens(es), rather than the camera body.

Generally speaking, what you want out of the camera body for wildlife is fast burst shooting for capturing that action moment and fast/accurate autofocus for keeping animals in focus while they’re moving.

A good and fairly priced camera body that will do this would be something inthe Sony a6000 series, the latest which is the a6700, but you could probably easily get away with an a6600 or even an a6400. (The less you spend on your camera body the more you can spend on lenses, and your lenses will cost significantly more than the camera body).

The a6700 is $1400, you could save a few hundred going used and/or getting one of the previous models.

But far more important than that is the focal length of the lens, and the maximum aperture of your lens.

The focal length is important in allowing you to get good photos of the wildlife that fill your frame/photo by optically getting you close to the animal.

The aperture is an opening in the lens that acts very much like the pupil in your eye. The maximum aperture is how large that opening can get, which is important because the bigger it gets, the more light it lets into the lens.

Letting more light into the lens is critically important because the more light you get, the faster your shutter speed can be, which will help you freeze the animals when in motion.

An good lens to start with would be the 70-200mm f2.8. (The maximum aperture of the lens is the f2.8. The smaller the aperture number the bigger the opening).

The Sony 70-200mm f2.8 costs between $200-3000 depending on the version you choose. That may seem eye watering, but consider that you’ll be able to use this lens literally for a lifetime (provided you take care of it).

For wildlife the 70-200 f2.8 is a good lens to start with but if you get serious about it over time you’ll likely want to get longer lenses to get you even closer (optically) to your subjects.

+1 for Jellyfin. Been running it for years now and it’s fantastic. Great device coverage

Did you make their day? Because they were pretty clear that we needed to make their day.