[-] solarbird@kbin.social 3 points 1 year ago

Yeah, I guess that makes sense. More sense than the Magic Mouse, at least. xD

75
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by solarbird@kbin.social to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

I know this is incredibly niche but if you need it, you kinda really need it. xD

Anyway, as part of my ongoing air-exchange-based HVAC project, I have an outdoor air quality sensor from Ambient Weather (no sponsorship, I bought with my own money, etc). It's battery/solar powered, and that's fine... except for the part where that doesn't work here in the winter. We just don't get enough sun or close to it.

But it plugs in to charge and keeps working when plugged in, so winner winner chicken dinner, right?

WRONG! Because to do that you have to take the bottom off the case, and then, the charge plug sticks directly out from the bottom facing down, like a goddamn Apple Magic Mouse.

So maybe I can't fix the mouse, but I can fix this, and so I have made a printable tray and rack system that lets you use it that way without it being stupid. Enjoy!

https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/8c/fc/44/4e/16/fceb8b64-655b-4677-9233-0eb649cab5a9.jpg

[-] solarbird@kbin.social 6 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

I do, but with a temperature tower. You get top and sides, curves and spanning, overhangs, and, well... temperature. ^_^

[-] solarbird@kbin.social 2 points 1 year ago

Absolutely not. I have nothing against the actor but yeah. Jim Carey every time.

[-] solarbird@kbin.social 3 points 1 year ago

oh that's pretty great :D

When my house got electricity in 1924, they got a backlit front light for over the doorway. It wasn't in good shape when we found it, but it was there, and I got it back together - except for the lighting. Which this really, really makes me want to fix now. :D

[-] solarbird@kbin.social 3 points 1 year ago

Having done this, you can also get a "3D pen" that will work with your filament and that'll work decently well for small areas, and you can also use it to fill in gaps. Overheat the PLA a bit and work fast.

[-] solarbird@kbin.social 4 points 1 year ago

Oh wow, that looks hilarious, but in a fuck yeah you mad lad way. Is it the tower resonating or the part you're printing? If it's the tower I'd bet money you could solve the last of the problems with some kind of wall attachment for the tower. (Clip if you actually do haul it around, bracket if you don't.)

I had similarly good luck with a height mod on my 3V2 but that thing has a lot more mass to it, I expected it to work. I would not have expected this to work.

[-] solarbird@kbin.social 2 points 1 year ago

I am running magnetic sheet on glass bed with magnetic layer and it works great for me. I get a lot of weird pushback from people but... yeah, it works fine. And you can swap out plates and keep the rigidity and thermal mass of glass. If you don't want that then yeah, go straight to putting the magnetic sheet on the heating plate itself, but I've had heat-evenness issues and I like the extra thermal inertia so it solves problems for me.

I wrote it all up here if anyone wants to see details:

https://solarbird.net/blog/2023/04/09/the-question-im-sure-was-on-everyones-mind-can-you-combine-pei-and-glass-beds/

[-] solarbird@kbin.social 2 points 1 year ago

Kitchen torch is almost the right idea, what you want is a hot air gun of some kind. I have a hot-air rework station, which cost me like $45 including sales tax, and lets me set the temperature of the air coming out. Get the nozzle off and get ready to clean out the entire hot end, which for the nozzle means getting it clamped onto some sort of holder (pliers, even, but preferably better) and heating it up with the hot-air gun until you get the filament melting. Then start clearing it out from the wider end using, say, a bamboo skewer, which I find effective and non-scarrning to the nozzles.

It'll take some futzing around, but you'll get there.

[-] solarbird@kbin.social 4 points 1 year ago

Yeah, if you actively like to tinker, the Ender 3 series will give you every opportunity. And sometimes will require it. xD (My 3V2 hasn't really required it, but holy shit is it not stock anymore and I have learned a lot making it that way.)

Seriously though, the Ender 3 community and mods availability is unsurpassed. These things are truly the Model T of printers for both better and worse, and I'm glad I started here, it's been educational as hell and that's part of what I wanted. And it's a bit of a hotrod at this point! Because I made it so. :D

[-] solarbird@kbin.social 2 points 1 year ago

If the extruder is clicking, it's able to grasp the filament. It's that it's trying to move it forward, literally can't, and it slips and makes that click. That also grinds down the filament at the wheel as well.

I've printed fine with eSun PLA+ on an Ender 3 V2, it's a very straightforward filament in my experience. Not my favourite, but it's fine. (Their cleaning filament by contrast is excellent and I recommend it highly.) I would take apart the entire filament path and make sure it is incredibly clean, because this really sounds to me like a recurring clog issue caused by some particulate matter, which can include extraheated filament hat no longer wants to melt right.

[-] solarbird@kbin.social 2 points 1 year ago

I build everything (including our homebrew media server) but for a NAS I still just bought a Synology box. Part of that is the main purpose of the box is to be a RAIDed repository for automatic workstation backups and I was willing to pay for a known-good turnkey device that talks to everything in the world right out the gate.

I haven't regretted it once.

[-] solarbird@kbin.social 9 points 1 year ago

People are seeing that get reverted too, according to several reports on Mastodon. It's reverting back to old versions of posts, comments, etc.

view more: next ›

solarbird

joined 1 year ago