3DPrinting

Today, we are releasing the full CAD files for the CORE One and CORE One L frames.

There seems to be a custom licence.

The Restriction: You cannot commercially exploit the design files (selling the product or remixes) without a separate agreement.

The Protection: It includes an explicit patent license grant, protection against AI data mining, and a codified Right-to-Repair.

Most of the linked article is about the licence.

There's been a lot of talk about Prusa turning evil. Maybe it's a good step back.

Continuation from this Post: https://lemmy.blahaj.zone/post/36954883

After many of you Suggested that Heat could be a Potential Solution to Regaining Sanded PETG Colour, I got myself a Heatgun Capable of 600c°.

While it did Improve the Colouring, Especially for Darker parts it wasn't Enough. To be a bit more Specific, Both Green and Yellow Parts Fully did regain the Colour Red Improved a Lot, but not quite Satisfactory And Black did make a Difference, but its not Nearly Close enough, being a Matte Dark Gray instead of... Black

I've noticed that the Black only did regain its true Colour once actively Melting and Warping which doesn't help... Otherwise its a Light/Dark Gray Matte Black.

So I think the Heatgun Method doesn't quite hold for Dark Parts. What other Methods of Regaining Colour are there?

I do still have MEK that I could Try. I also Heard that Clearcoat could Work and that there are 3D Printing Specific Brands, should I give that a Shot?

I've got a roll of Blue Geeetech ABS+ that starts to smoke when it's still so cold that its layer adhesion is terrible, and just burns in the nozzle whenever it's not actively extruding if the temperature is high enough that it sticks to itself. Obviously, this is bad, and it sooted up a nozzle so badly that it needed to be replaced before I gave up on it.

So far, the only ideas I've had are just to leave it on a shelf indefinitely or to landfill it, neither of which are a great use of nearly a kilo of plastic.

I'm looking into getting a new printer, and I'm interested in building my own. I know Voron 2.4 and Trident are the obvious ones to look at. But I can't help but notice they are both 3+ year old printers. Considering how much the industry has grown in the last few years, it got second guessing if Voron is still the way to go.

How do Voron printers compare to the current state of the art (Prusa CoreOne+, Bambu P2 series, Qidi Plus 4, etc.)? Are there mods that are essential to improving them? Are there other DIY printers I should look at?

Thanks!

Well, almost. I didn't give myself enough tolerance in the cutout for the speaker and it doesn't fit well. On to v1.01!

I'm reorganising my hobby space and I could really use some inspiration for cool and effective ways to do this. I have a rectangular room of about 15sqrm (6m x 2.5m) for this, I also have a treadmill in there so I don't have tons of space.

Hello, who do you guys get your files from? Im trying to find some cool designs and someone who drops files pretty frequently to make it worth using printer space, let me know what you guys think! Thanks

It will be a 240x280x70ish speaker stand. The first go ground with it flat and support free resulted in warping despite a 60°C chamber, so I stood it on its end, cut print speed by a third, and added the breaks to reduce stress.

This will take a while...

Note that the bottom has a chmafer, so although there's a shadow it's not warping.

TL;DR: Very happy with my purchase, impressed so far. Will update when the print finishes.

I was using and Ender 3 v3 KE before and I see now the difference, and understand people saying if you just want plug n play - go Bambu.

I can’t speak to the print quality yet, (although the progress looks good) but the smarts built into this thing are really impressive. First setup it goes through a 15minute calibration mode - it checks and compensates for its location by performing speed travel changes and vibration testing to adjust its settings - the aim being to minimise the effects of its travel and bed direction changes based on what its sitting on.

It even has a little wiper blade thing (that’s actually very aggressive) which catches and removes extrusion waste during heating and filament changes etc. I suspect I’ll be buying an AMS for it when the sales come around. The filament changes seem like they might be a bit more time consuming than the ender, it took a lot of “retries” telling it to feed more filament in, for the filament to reach extrusion. The ender doesn’t have a PTFE feed tube so I am accustomed to just forcing more filament through the print head manually - which is the source of my impatience but that is trivial at most. Once the extrusion was working - it then did a flow calibration on its own. Checking temps and extrusion force I presume. One more thing built in that you don’t have to think about

I didn’t realise it came with a lil camera built in. I wasn’t too fussed but it’s a nice touch.

The machine beep sound is obnoxious so i turned that off straight away, but handy for getting attention over a noisy workshop I can imagine.

I was a bit dubious about moving away from Orca as I had become familiar with the settings etc, but this UI is almost the same and seems as intuitive as the rest. Haven’t tried any significant modifications to the model in Bambu but it looks like it’s going to be just about the same.

Overall I’m blown away by the polish and functionality it offers, and the ease I’ve had setting it up. Bambu Product Managers must be good at their jobs and if they’re not experienced enthusiasts, they must actually go out and speak to a lot of their customers as this is a great product.

Appreciate everyone who’s posted before me, and shared their thoughts on printers when others have asked for advice - reading through that content has led me to this purchase which I’m very pleased with already.

Happy printing team!

I'm curious why I don't hear more about mattercad here or elsewhere? It's free (not FOSS), and for me really fills the gap between tinkercad and most professional cad software. I often see questions about people wanting to move beyond tinkercad but being intimidated by the learning curve and the fairly large jump between it and higher powered software. Mattercad fits so nicely in this space. Yes it's a bit slow once shapes get more complex, and it has some frustrating bugs that I don't think will ever be fixed, but it's both powerful and simple. I'm curious if there are places people think it falls short or if you think I'm wrong and there is a better intermediate software package I should be considering?

This particular filament (Sunlu matte HS PETG) is one of the absolute worst I've ever used WRT being hygroscopic. It arrived so wet that I had literal steam from the extruder the first time I wanted to use it. It took almost 48h in my drier to dry it completely so I could use it. Its been sitting in an airtight box with dessicant for 5 weeks and I needed to dry it for >16h for it to be usable again. The wet part in this print was in the bowden tube between dryer and printer, I restarted the print after took this image.

Sure it prints well at 300mm/s, but it is by no means matte at the temperatures that allow printing it at high speeds, it is actually very glossy. A huge bummer.

smooth first layer...so nice

I'm trying to find the reason why my bigger printer suddenly decided to constantly create blockages as high as the PTFE tube in the cooling block (so a little bit above the heatbreak).

It's an older V6 head. The discolouring on the heating block comes from the single time the nozzle came lose and PETG was pressed through the threads upwards, that was a year ago though. I didn't change anything, from one day to another it just decided that (for both PLA and PETG) it'll now stop working properly.

Waiting on a stronger cooling fan (strongest Sunon I could find, the one with 9000rpm). Other than that I'm just confused why this suddenly happens.

I got one last week and it's good, real good. But like too good? So I'll never have to worry about bed adhesion, which is not a problem very often but is the most common problem on the stock textured PEI plate that the printer comes with. But with the cool plate I definitely don't have to worry about it. Conversely, I have to worry about getting my prints off the bed without damaging them.

I think what I'm learning is that some prints are more appropriate for one plate and others are better for the other.

I recently decided to force myself to actually learn FreeCad. I've tried on and off for the past two years but just couldn't get along with the UI and workflow...well, now I'm giving it an honest shot, and after a few weeks of misery, it is getting better.

But my laptop is not particularly powerful, and I frequently have performance issues when working with imported step-files. Lo and behold, you can run FreeCad in docker, so I can use my server which is significantly more powerful and just access via browser.

The catch is, it seems to run even worse than on my laptop. I can also see that it actually doesn't use much of the available power of the server. Does anyone have experience with setting up a docker compose for FreeCad? I've looked at the docs and my GPU should be passed through and I've also allocated 32GB ram to the container. But it doesn't actually use it it seems.

Side note - anyone have a good video rehost other than catbox?

Article: https://tg.la7.it/cronaca/bolzano-coltelli-stampante-3d-a-scuola-denunciato-minore-26-01-2026-251562

Local student arrested for 'manufacturing weapons.' In reality, he printed some PLA shivs that would probably shatter if they hit a piece of parmesan cheese. The police seized the printer like it was a meth lab. 10/10 for the dramatic crime scene photo, though.

(Backstory: a few weeks ago a student in another city/school was stabbed with a (iron) knife and died so now politicians need to show that zero tolerance policies are successful.)

Hi! Looking for some advice here from friendly local experts.

I've printed this with Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, 0.4 nozzle, Elegoo PETG filament, no enclosure. Using PrusaSlicer.

This print is basically all walls - the hex grid is thin. It's 2mm thick and each segment is 1.5mm wide. I set 3 layers for walls in slicer. It was printed vertically, just as seen on picture.

The solid part of the print (back wall) came out just fine, but the hex grid part came... dirty. On the picture, there are a few hex segments that just broke off during the print at the base of vertical segments. And the rest of them have small loops of filament that stick outside of the intended surface, to the sides.

My suspicion is the print temperature is too low. I'm printing at 230, which is the low end of 230-260 range of the filament. But in my previous tests I noticed stringing that starts around 240, so I did a few other prints that were just fine at 230, and I made it my default temp for this spool.

Or is it just too fine detail for my printer with PETG? Or something else that I am missing?

Designing a simple photo frame. I wanted to make it so that it prints without supports. While printing, however, the back support part wobbles/vibrates with movement, and is printing terribly.

Ender 3v3 CoreXZ, PolyTerra matte black filament, using the CR-PLA Matte profile in Creality Print 7. Tried printing at slow speeds, the issue still persists.

I've tried making the back support with only 45 degree angles (previously it was an x diagonal), made it thicker (from 0.75mm to 1.5mm). Nothing is working. Please find the stl and 3mf here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7281179).

Is this a printer issue, a model issue, or a slicer issue? Please advise.

And I made this discovery when swapping over to the rims with my snow tires on them last night.

When all you have is a big fuckin' hammer, it follows that everything you encounter starts to look more and more like a nail that could use a good old whack. I actually had my calipers out and in my hand before I stopped and thought, "You know, I'll bet you a nickel someone else has already thought of this."

I was right.

I found this set of models on Printables and ran one off in PETG. Fits like a glove.