3DPrinting

Needed a tool drawer thingy but nothing I saw online was the right size. Ended up buying some serving trays from IKEA and printing this rack for them. Ended up going with PLA, seems strong enough. 4 perimeters with a 0.6mm nozzle.

Prusa have shared on their blog the upcoming version of their slicer which is intended to make colour printing easy using CMYKW for 5 colour printers and CMYW for their 4 colour systems

I think it's finally time to upgrade from my Ender 3, and the market has... grown substantially. I'm a bit out of my depth.

Definitely looking at a coreXY, and definitely prefer a multi-color system (multi-material really). My budget is around $600, but that's a bit flexible.

The Elegoo Centurion Carbon 2 looks attractive, and it's on sale. But I've heard good things about multi-head systems, particularly when it comes to waste from purging. Granted, that stretches my budget a bit.

What's the move? It seems like so many of the options (coughcoughBambu) have pretty gross anti-consumer practices. Are there any good options out there?

Update: Alright, I pulled the trigger on a Snapmaker U1. It seems like it's going to be the Ender 3 of tool changers: the open source darling that becomes the de facto standard for the mod community.

Ideally no paint as buying an entire bucket if white paint for a white print seems wasteful.

Is there any sort of filler I could use to hide the seams between the parts I have glued together?

Will standard stationary glue work (Elmer's, Kokuyo, or similar), or does something stronger need to be use? Additionally, I also need to glue in magnets into my 3D prints. What is the best kind of glue for this use case, or will any do fine?

They will only be used for a few prints, so I would like to avoid very large containers. Small bottles and syringes are ideal

edit: I will probably go with cyanoacrylate (CA) glue then. 3D Gloop has also been recommended, but is not sold by any local retailers and international shipping will take too long for the project I need to use it for. Could be a neat option for some people though. Thanks, everyone!

Somebody has also suggested acrylic/plastic cement for chemically joining plastic parts together, but in my experience with laser cut acrylic, it's difficult to apply and can also affect the appearance of the print if you mess up. It also has a very short time window between application and fusing. I'm sure it works fine, and it will probably hold up better due to the plastics being chemically fused, but I will go with CA glue.

EDIT NOTICE: I accidentally wrote "A1 Mini" in the meme instead of just "A1" out of habit. There's no proof for the Mini to also be affected yet. My bad, sorry. It's the A1 that might burn your house down.

From the guy that gave a snake legs: a 3D-printed prosthetic tail for chickens!

Edit - more in depth explanation https://youtu.be/gJS-XkTEq-A

UPDATE: turns out the issue was the mode l was trying to print!

After lubricating everything, removing then retightening screws from all over, cleaning the bed, scrubbing the nozzle, it looks like my issue was actually from the model I was printing with. It had a razor thin edge as its base, and the printer either a) printed a very thin line of filament, which could easily shift due to having no structural support or b) did not print a first layer as the bottom may have been seen as not touching the base. Either way, my fix was moving all my print files down by 4mm, creating a flat base for the print as it cuts off the thin edge! For my use case, this was fine as shaving off 4mm from the bottom does not affect the functionality of the mask.

This also explains why the smaller models I tested printed fine (a Benchy + a controller mount), as both had very flat bases.

original post:

When trying to print larger models (in PLA), I run into an issue where the filament does not correctly adhere to the printing bed. I have tried cleaning the nozzle with steel wool and washing the build plate, but the issue still occurs. It is probably something to do with the settings on larger prints, as smaller models (controller mount, Benchy) all print perfectly fine.

In all occurances, it seems like the first few layers do not correctly join together, and the print becomes a thick web of filament string (not a fine web, but a thick one where the strings are about the thickness it was printed in)

Does anyone have an idea on what could be causing the issue?

the models I am trying to print:

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6783537/files (the mask of the Hollow Knight guy)
• https://www.printables.com/model/19648-channelled-nail-from-hollow-knight (his big sword, at around 0.6x scale all dimensions)

I am using OrcaSlicer and a Bambu A1 (note: I no longer recommend Bambu printers, this was bought before the firmware updates that blocked third-party software support outside of LAN only mode)

My slicer settings are close to default, but with gyroid infill, 3 walls, and tree supports. Those settings work with smaller prints, so I'm decently sure they are not the problem. My printer was sitting unused for a few weeks with the filament exposed, so perhaps the filament became too wet? But small prints work fine. No idea what is causing this issue though.

edit: I have printed a large first layer test print, and I see many imperfections on the surface. What does this mean?

on the print bed

on the floor

edit 2:

Tightening the four small screws behind the heating assembly did not fix the issue. What else could be going wrong?

original post:

I am trying to 3D print a Hollow Knight channeled nail, but when the handle was nearly done printing, the whole thing fell over and I had to cancel the print. There are these burn marks and such on the print, what does that mean?

Do I need to make the model smaller, or is there something wrong with the print settings?

https://www.printables.com/model/19648-channelled-nail-from-hollow-knight (model I am trying to print)

edit: I am now trying to print a different, smaller model to test. I have cleaned my nozzle with some steel wool I had, and I also scrubbed my build plate, and now my printer is running into a different issue. The filament is stringy and doesn't stick well for some reason. ~~This only occurs with white filament, the orange printed fine for a small print. Is my white filament too wet?~~

I tried it a second time, same result (ended the print earlier):

It seems like the first player does not stick to the build plate...

edit 2: nope, printing the same model using orange PLA instead of white nets the same thing.

What am I doing wrong???

edit 3: Wait a minute, I just realised that OrcaSlicer was set to Smooth High Temp Plate instead of Textured PEI Plate. Whoops! I will change that now and see if that fixes anything. That is probably why filament is not adhering to the plate, but it does not explain the weird burn mark of my initial failed print.

edit 4: Nope, that still doesn't fix the issue where the filament doesn't want to behave. :(

Could the filament be too wet? Or is there something else wrong, could the printer settings be configured incorrectly?

Insanity is when you try doing the same thing twice and expecting a different result.

edit 5: My printer is able to print a standard Benchy with no problems, so there could be something wrong with the models I want to print and/or I have the print settings for my models done incorrectly? Very strange. Or maybe it's just an issue for relatively large models, IDK. I will look at my print settings to check what could be going wrong...

I will be going to Germany for a school trip soon, and one of the locations we will be visiting is a castle, and we have to bring a costume that fits a monarch kind of role (think kings, queens, that sort).

What are some good costume ideas where I could easily 3D print some nice accessories (like a staff)? I believe it can be costumes of fictional characters too, as long as it's related to the theme.

I only have white, orange, and purple PLA filament, but I could look into painting some parts. I will need to pack for the trip in a couple weeks time, so something that is quick to print is ideal. My printer has a build volume of 256mm in all three dimensions.

I would prefer a costume that isn't ridiculously over the top or royal. My initial idea was to look like a modern day monarch, but the suits and ties they wear are expensive and uncomfortable too. I would rather go with fictional characters who live in castles and are monarchs, as they usually have more interesting designs than the stereotypical "red robe and furskins with golden crown".

edit: Somebody has already suggested the Lego Knight, and I think stuff like that is pretty cool! Not stereotypically over the top with very simple designs that are relatively easy to print (big shapes, limited colours, etc.)

Hollow Knight characters also sound really cool, I like the games and the designs are very easy to recreate, especially since I already have white filament.

Does anyone have similar suggestions that have good, simple designs that are easy to print?

Kinda had it with ABS. Trying to do large prints and the warping and cracking is driving me nuts, that is if the print doesn’t peel off the build plate and fail altogether in the first place. I’ve done what I can as far as print settings to have the best possibility of success, but even then the prints will often split.

I print car parts and things that are exposed to heat and chemicals occasionally, so ABS has been the easy choice, but are there any filaments out there that have comparable qualities but aren’t as likely to warp?

Hey guys,

I am using Bambu lab sunflower yellow. I have dried it, and washed my plate. With this particular filament the first layer looks like shit, but the rest of the print turns out fine. Other filaments have proper thick lines of equal height and so on.

I only have a problem with this particular color sinw opening the filament. Is it just the filament being shit or you can think of anything else I could check?

The parts came out perfectly fine, and there was no damage to the mag sheet 🤷👍

I know you can disable the prime tower at a trade off in quality, but why not poop out the priming instead of wasting build plate space?

Am I missing a setting in Orca?

For whatever reason, the top piece warped despite what appear to be basically perfect supports.

I have an sv08 and it got hurt by static electricity so I had to replace the toolhead. But since I replaced it, the printer has been unable to print acceptably. I talked to sovol and replaced all the wiring between the toolhead+motors and mainboard but the attached pictures shows how it prints now. it does a lot better than it did, but its current status is strange. How come half of it is smooth and half is crazy? It would make sense it just x or just y direction was messed up, but it's half of both...

I’m using Fusion360, and I dislike it for a lot of reasons, but it’s easy to use. I tried FreeCAD, but it was very janky in comparison. Shapr3D was surprisingly good, but there’s no way I’m paying monthly for my hobby usage. I need precision prints, so I can’t just use Blender or similar.

Is there some magical unicorn software I’m not finding?

Github: https://github.com/oozebot/preFlight

Interested in taking some wild new 3D printing features for a test drive? preFlight is free and open source slicer that brings a host of processing improvements as well as fascinating new features and interesting twists on old ones. There are almost too many to list, so here are a few that caught our eye. Cross-sectional view of Interlocking Perimeters, which increases Z-strength. Unlike brick layers, layer height stays constant.

Want to mix and match different support types on the same object? No problem. How about use Nip & Tuck seams to better hide where layers start and stop? You can emboss images directly onto print surfaces with a real-time preview and use smart bridging for counter-bored holes. We particularly like the ability to preview a sliced object from the side instead of just by layer. That’s not all, either.

Those features alone are pretty intriguing, but there’s one in particular that is particularly relevant to creating stronger parts. Interlocking Perimeters increases layer bonding to increase object strength. Unlike brick layers, which staggers layers vertically, interlocking perimeters plays with spacing and compression to increase bonding in the Z axis while keeping layer heights constant. This is possible thanks in part to the greater control offered by Athena, the new perimeter generator.

There are plenty more features — like a full Python runtime embedded directly into the slicing pipeline, and a host of export pathways — so check out the GitHub repository for added detail and let us know in the comments if you give it a try.