this post was submitted on 17 May 2026
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I searched for a bed like this but didn't find anything I liked that was well-built and affordable. So, I'm building this one out of solid wood for about $450. (Except I had to buy a new miter saw, because my old one was stolen out of my garage about two years ago, so that was another $250.)

Edit:

Here's the Blender 5.1.1 file

You'll need the Measure It addon installed and enabled to see the dimensions. The gray boards are the blank stock pieces I bought. It's in inches, because I'm a stupid American.

Here's a screenshot of the blender file:

Edit 2:

I have most of the pieces cut to size. I've already made a small mistake, but it wouldn't be my project if I didn't. Nothing a little wood filler won't fix. The side walls of the headboard with the angles I'll need to cut with my circular saw. Or, maybe I could do it like this. I'm not sure my table saw is big enough. (Also, it was either woodworker or piano player for this guy, I think he made the right choice.)

Edit 3:

I'm stuck waiting for the Vevor pocket hole jig I ordered, and the bed rail hardware. I didn't get the Kreg, because it's plastic and more expensive than the more versatile Vevor jig.

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[–] whatiswrongwithyou@lemmy.ml 13 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (1 children)

Op you absolutely need cross boards/slats.

You should not use a flat plywood platform to accomplish the same outcome, it will be more expensive, less stable over time and contribute to eventual mold in your mattress unless you live in like Death Valley (and maybe even there too depending on how you humidify your house!)

Again, you without any qualification need to use slats or cross boards to support the mattress and will be unhappy if you attempt to use ply for that.

If you want the “clean look” of a plywood platform, use an overlay of decoratively cut (50%+ negative space) 1/4” wallboard (freedom ply here in the us!) on top of your slats. When someone asks for a plywood platform over their slats, which has happened twice now, I usually set the saw in a jig and rip a bunch of four or five inch strips off some 1/4” and put them an inch or so farther apart than their width (so a bunch of 5” strips would be 6 + inches apart each) and join the whole thing together with a thinner strip across the top and bottom underneath held together with countersunk screws that have either acorn nuts on their bottoms or something else. You need countersunk so stuff can not get caught on the top and acorn nuts on the bottom so hands and cats don’t catch any strays fishing around under that thang. You can’t use glue because you need the whole apparatus to go parallelogram when the bed frame does.

E: oh yeah, if you can tolerate it, check the dump/your local listings for a busted ass metal frame with rails long enough for your design (or close enough not to matter). Those steel L brackets are a super good way to make sure the wood doesn’t pop apart over time. Use some kind of a poly product where wood supports metal to make it even better.

E2: reclaimed metal parts look really sick when you sand and repaint them a loud color that no one will see until they take the mattress off.

E3: if you bake enough slop into your overlay strips you can actually glue them in the case that you trust yourself to glue square and true. Okay I’m really done this time.

[–] DarrinBrunner@lemmy.world 4 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (1 children)

I live near Death Valley--New Mexico. I'm not at all worried about mold, in the summer humidity is typically about 10%, in the winter it can rise up to 60%--yes, it's backwards from most places--and it only gets really high on rainy days. (EDIT: I just checked humidity is currently 10%.)

Also, the mattress is approved by the manufacturer for a solid surface.

Finally, I already bought the plywood and cut the pieces, I'm not buying more wood.

[–] whatiswrongwithyou@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 days ago (1 children)

I hope I’m the wrongest I’ve ever been.

It’s a very cool design! Did you use some kind of a plugin or panel to do woodworking measurements in blender? I never used it for cad in any serious way.

[–] DarrinBrunner@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago (2 children)

I use the Measure It addon. It adds dynamic dimensions between two vertices, just for visualization for the cut list.

For this simple bed, I just add a cube, enter the dimensions, and then rotate and snap each piece into place. Vertices, faces, and meshes can be selected and moved any arbitrary distance along any axis as needed to tweak the design.

I've used FreeCad and Fusion 360, but I don't really need either for what I do, I'm comfortable in Blender as I've used it for ~15 years now.

[–] whatiswrongwithyou@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 days ago

Ever used one of the sheet goods addons for a cad package? There’s an ominous zcode router in my near to middlin future…

[–] Dalkor@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago (2 children)

Sorry to barge into the chain, but does it add fractional measurements? Its one of the things I miss most about using 3dsmax. Its not the worst, but i do hate converting decimals to fractions on the tape measure when measuring lumber.

[–] DarrinBrunner@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

No, just decimal, I think. I'll check.

Nope, just decimal.

I used to have down to 1/16" in decimal memorized. Got me within 1/32, which was enough. I only have 1/8" decimal still memorized, I don't need it as much as I used to.

  • 0.0625
  • 0.0125
  • 0.1875
  • 0.25
  • 0.3125
  • 0.375
  • 0.4375
  • 0.5
  • 0.5625
  • 0.625
  • 0.6875
  • 0.75
  • 0.8125
  • 0.875
  • 0.9375
[–] whatiswrongwithyou@lemmy.ml 3 points 2 days ago (1 children)

You can use your cheap piece of shit $2 calipers to convert d>f and vice versa. Just dial your measurement and push the button till it becomes the measurement you want.

Or you can use a tape measure with tenths (decimal) on one side of the first foot or so and use that side to find your near fraction so you can mark over or under it.

[–] DarrinBrunner@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago (1 children)

This is a good tip, but now I have to find 51/64ths on my tape measure. LOL.

[–] whatiswrongwithyou@lemmy.ml 2 points 1 day ago

Get a load of this guy, doesn’t even have a vernier tape measure!