this post was submitted on 24 Dec 2025
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gardening

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read braiding sweetgrass, lib

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Let it grow ^.^

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The economy is fucked and it's gonna get worse. You might live in a food desert right now or the food desert might expand to where you are living. Getting started on growing your own vegetables seems like it's really difficult and requires a lot of know-how and a whole lot of the right things - the right soil, the right amount of light, the right amount of watering...

All of this is kinda true. But it doesn't have to be.

There's a way to get around a lot of these problems and it can be done quite cheaply. So today we're Demokratkytizing Hydroponic Vegetable gardening and we're not gonna overthink this one.
(Keep in mind that this is intended to be the easiest on-ramp for starting out with growing vegetables, especially for the people who don't know where to start and those who don't have access to soil or who don't know how to remediate soil etc. If you're above this level then that's fantastic and this is probably not for you but this might be a good way of getting a friend or comrade started on their journey.)

Remember: the best time to learn how to grow a victory garden was ten years ago and the second best time to learn is right now.

Ingredients

  • A clean 20L bucket (5 gal) with a lid

  • A pool noodle (alternatively: an EVA foam floor tile or cloning collars)

  • Any hydroponic nutrient (Powder or liquid, liquid is easier to manage)

  • A tool to measure your hydroponic nutrient fairly accurately (Precision scales for powder, a measured pipette or syringe barrel for liquid)

  • A hole saw between 2.5-5cm diameter (1-2"), approximately (Alternatively a round cookie cutter of roughly the same diameter)

This is what we're gonna be making

Steps

Cut 4-8 holes below the rim of the bucket that are reasonably evenly spaced, ensuring that the holes do not cut into any structural support parts of the rim.

If you're using a cookie cutter, heat it up and carefully press out holes. (Remember not to use these cookie cutters for food now that they've been used on melting plastics.)

You can use other methods but they are going to be more difficult so I'd opt for a hole saw or a cookie cutter here.

Remember to avoid these bits when cutting the holes so they stay intact

More holes doesn't necessarily mean more better, but I'd recommend doing 6-8. This will be explained in detail below.

Now you're gonna make the collars to fit these holes.

Cloning collars are the easiest and the most accessible, but likely the most expensive. You may need to cut out a wedge to get it to fit in the holes if they are a bit big. It should be snug without being overly tight.

Pool noodles are probably the cheapest option. Cut a disc that is roughly 3cm (1") then cut a wedge out of the disc to get it to sit snugly in the hole you just cut. Here's how to do it

Here's how to make them out of EVA foam tiles

Once you've plugged every hole up this way, the next thing is to fill your bucket. You can use reverse osmosis water or rainwater or even tap water. We aren't overthinking this.

Measure out how much water you can put into the bucket until it reaches the holes you just cut. You can either use a large measuring jug or you can put the bucket on some scales that are designed for people, write down the weight of the unfilled bucket, then subtract that from the total filled weight.

You should end up with about 15L (4 gal.)

Now you need to add the appropriate amount of hydroponic nutrient. Follow the directions on the package closely. Remember to double check your maths and know that, while accuracy is good, slightly undershooting it is better than overshooting it.

Once you've done this, you're almost there. The next step is to find some easy to grow plants or to make some cuttings. This is beyond the scope of the post but I'd start with whatever is cheap and easy, as long as you will have a use for it. I'll make some suggestions at the bottom.

If you get some seedlings, remember to gently rinse off as much soil media as possible without damaging the roots. Then remove the pool noodle/collar/foam plug and place the plant in the center. Gently ease the roots through the hole and resituate the collar so it sits snugly and holds the plant securely. Check the inside of the bucket to ensure that at least half of the roots of the plant are submerged in the water without the stem being submerged.

Repeat until you have your plants situated in the bucket to your satisfaction. Now place your bucket in a location that gets full sun for at least 6 hours per day, unless info tells you otherwise.

That's basically it. You're done!

FAQ Section

What hydroponic method is this?

This is called the Kratky method - it's a passive, non-recirculating hydroponic method.

Don't you need to add aeration to the liquid so the plants don't die?

Not for this method. Your plants will grow air roots at the top of the bucket and, as the water level drains, the topmost roots will gradually be exposed which allows for the plants to get as much air as they need.

How do I refill the bucket?

Mix up around 2L (2 quarts) of hydroponic solution.
Top it up as you need but no higher than 10cm (4") from the bottom point of the holes - you need an air gap!

Don't refill a bucket from almost empty to almost full in one go. Give your plants time to adjust and refill it by 2 or 3L at the most, and do this once every couple of days until the bucket is refilled.

It's ideal to leave one hole plugged but unplanted so you can use it as an observation/refill hole.

Do I need to sanitize the bucket first?

Probably not. Clean your bucket and rinse it well, it should be fine.

Can I stack buckets on top of each other?

You can but be careful that they don't topple and that you aren't going too high.

Remember that you've cut into the sides of the buckets so I wouldn't go higher than 4 buckets tall.

Try to put buckets with fewer holes at the bottom because they'll have more structural integrity than ones with more holes.

Is it better to plant more per bucket?

No. Less is often more.

If you have smaller, fast growing annuals like lettuce or parsley then you can max out your planting but if you decide to go with big plants like tomatoes or a perennial like sweet potato then these will get very thirsty and you might only want to grow 2 or maybe 3 in one bucket.

You want this to be fairly hands-off. If you're refilling the bucket every other day then it's going to be a burden and there are better hydroponic methods available if you're growing this much in one container.

Can I use a smaller bucket?

You can use 10L (2.5 gal) buckets but I'd really only use that for a top bucket in a stack or for smaller plants. 20L (5 gal) buckets are ideal and offer more versatility if you want to change things around.

You can also use smaller containers like clean ice cream tubs but you will need to plant in the lid and to grow smaller vegetables/herbs and keep a closer eye on the water level. This is better for windowsill gardening imo.

Can I put some plants in the lid?

On the top bucket, yes. See above re: how much to plant. The lid of the top bucket can be used for bunching plants as well.

What about plants that grow in clumps like bunching onion or lemongrass?

This is where you will need hydroponic media and net cups or similar, and this is beyond the scope of this post. I'd leave this for another day and I'd research different methods but, for now, start simple. Get familiar with the process and then tackle bunching plants when you feel you're ready.

Can you use this method indoors under grow lights?

Yes.

What plants do you recommend?

It depends on your climate but try your hand at taking cuttings from herbs like mint or basil, especially if you can get them for free.

Other good options are non-heading lettuce and other vegetables that you can pluck the outer leaves from, like many Asian leafy greens.

Semiaquatic plants will love hydroponic growing and three really good options are sweet potato (grown for its leaves), kangkong/water morning glory, and watercress. These are great beginner plants that don't require much care as, once they are established, they should take care of themselves.

Are there any plants that don't tolerate this growing method?

Some plants don't like hydroponics. Of the ones that take to hydroponics, only a few don't like this method. The majority of common vegetables and herbs will be fine with this method although I wouldn't try growing potatoes this way.

If you aren't sure, just search "kratky + [plant name]" and see what people have to say. If that doesn't pull up any results then try searching to see if the plant handles hydroponic growing.

How can I make this more accessible for me due to physical disability?

Set the bucket up in the location you want it to be in before you fill it with the nutrient solution.

You can buy pot stands with castors to put the bucket on if you need to move it, e.g. to find the right position for it.

Consider putting a larger, more comfortable grip on the handle, perhaps using a length of pool noodle, to allow for better grip of the handle if you need.

Place a bottom bucket filled with water, soil, rocks, sand, or anything heavy to raise up the growing buckets to avoid the need to bend too much (if you grow a vining plant on the bottom bucket then once it's established you won't need to bend over to harvest it as it will grow to reach a comfortable height for you.)

Aren't I supposed to use reverse osmosis water and adjust the pH and check the TDS?

You can, but don't overthink it. We're going for the most simple option, not the most perfectly optimized one.

You will sacrifice a small amount of productivity and efficiency this way but remember that the most unproductive garden is the one that goes unused and that chasing efficiency, paradoxically, often becomes extremely inefficient.

We're keeping this as simple as possible.

Won't it grow algae?

Yeah, some. It's not that big of a deal though.

Darker colored buckets are better for preventing algae, although don't worry too much as lighter colored buckets do just fine too. You could probably paint the buckets black or you could cover the bucket in burlap fabric or similar if you want to but it's really not necessary and doing this risks overcomplicating it and blowing out the costs and the time it takes to make a set up.

What do I do if I get extremely hot summer sun where I live?

Bring the buckets inside if it's really bad. Otherwise, shelter the bucket from the hot afternoon sun especially and ensure that there's enough liquid in the bucket to get the plants through the day.

Hydroponics is good for hot weather as it provides all the water a plant can absorb and the water creates a good thermal buffer that takes longer to heat up vs a pot plant with soil.

What do I do about frost?

Bring the buckets inside and opt for frost-tolerant plants.

Will water get in the bucket and dilute the solution?

Probably in very small amounts. It's not a big deal so don't worry.

How many plants is too many?

It genuinely depends on the size of the plants. For small plants like salad leaves and herbs, 6-8 is fine. For larger plants 1-2 is enough.

If you find yourself constantly refilling the bucket with nutrient solution then it's time to consider making a new one to take the pressure off the current bucket by transplanting.

What do you recommend for plants that grow large or set heavy fruit?

My advice is to avoid it until you're familiar with the method and to use pool noodles (especially if the disc is cut a bit wider to accommodate the extra weight on the stem.)

Also keep it to one or two plants per bucket.

Happy gardening!

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[โ€“] infuziSporg@hexbear.net 3 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (1 children)

The first question that came to mind for me was how long the nutrient solution lasts before it's depleted, and how to know when you need to add more.

Are Kratky hydroponics really less labor-intensive than regular 5gal planters with cardboard mulching? When my friends/org were starting out doing gardens, we grew a lot of tomatoes and chili peppers in buckets with soil. I would suspect that using a conventional method with mulch and compost would build more easily transferrable skills to growing on a plot of land.

[โ€“] ReadFanon@hexbear.net 1 points 16 hours ago

The first question that came to mind for me was how long the nutrient solution lasts before it's depleted, and how to know when you need to add more.

I'd do it before the bucket runs dry but even then, if your plants are still kicking and you notice the bucket is empty then give it the incremental top up using about 2L at a time until you're back to a comfortable level.

Worst case scenario - the bucket runs dry, your plants end up too stressed and they die off after you refill the bucket so you replant it with new plants and you start again. No big deal.

As for depletion of nutrients themselves, that really shouldn't be a problem. If you grew a perennial plant in this system then over a long period (I'm thinking years), depending on the nutrients you are using you could see some nutrient deficiencies or excesses gradually emerge but that's a long shot tbh and it's something that I doubt would happen regularly so it's really nothing to worry about. Given that it's super easy to reset a system it's not much of an issue and if you've been using it nonstop for multiple years where these problems might arise then you're miles ahead of where this guide is aimed at.

Are Kratky hydroponics really less labor-intensive than regular 5gal planters with cardboard mulching?

Once it's set up I'd say so. You take out the need to figure out a fertilizing schedule, there is zero weeding, and you don't need to concern yourself with soil conditions. But if you want to go with 5gal planters then definitely do that, I wouldn't dream of knocking that approach.

This way is good for people who don't have much space, since it's vertical, or who don't have good access to transport or who lack the physical strength to deal with soil etc. (although can be a good option for plenty of other people too.)

When my friends/org were starting out doing gardens, we grew a lot of tomatoes and chili peppers in buckets with soil. I would suspect that using a conventional method with mulch and compost would build more easily transferrable skills to growing on a plot of land.

I agree with you on that.

In terms of transferrable skills for growing on a plot of land, conventional container gardening is more transferrable in a direct sense without a doubt. But the problem is that it can be really difficult to get started if you don't know where to start and it's your first time, especially if you don't have access to a more skilled gardener for advice - kratky hydro eliminates the concerns about soil and fertilizing and watering (for the most part, at least) and it's a good way to get started on observing plants growing in fairly optimal conditions so you can start developing your skills since there aren't as many variables to consider once it's set up. It's also nice if you're forgetful or you struggle with fatigue (hi, nice to meet you!)

Honestly in every respect aside from perhaps convenience, this is the least optimal way of growing food - although kratky sometimes outperforms other hydro methods with certain plants, there are more consistent hydro methods that tend to provide better yields and as for growing conventionally in soil, there's a lot of benefits to that approach especially in terms of skill building and soil enrichment and closed-loop gardening. If you have access to a plot of soil and you know what you're doing then, unless you want a very convenient little herb tower as a kitchen garden right outside your door, I'd advise against this method. (Or maybe if you regularly work away and can't tend to plants while you're on trips or you're in a drought-prone area and you have your heart set on growing a semiaquatic plant.)

But it still holds a lot of use for different cases. In terms of transferrable skills, this method is really useful if you want to dive deeper into hydroponics or even aero/aqua but you're just starting out and you don't want to throw big cash at it yet. You also get a fair way into transferrable skills for doing intensive mycoculture (as opposed to open mycoculture), believe it or not, but that's a different subject for a different post.

Ultimately if this puts gardening within reach for people who it might not otherwise had been or it gets people started and they see enough results to motivate them to keep at it or, ideally, this turns out to be the perfect method for them then that's great. It makes for an easy first step that will get people to explore growing from seeds, seed saving, taking cuttings, pruning, and all sorts of other paths that lead outward from there and that includes conventional horticulture too. I'm not here to tell anyone what they have to do (ignore the title of the post pls) - my hope is just that it inspires someone to try out gardening especially if trying to start growing in soil seems too daunting.