I have a Kobo and much prefer it over kindle. While they have a bookstore, it’s not intrusive like Amazon, and it’s super easy to load books over usb (I use Calibre but I’ve also just directly copied books over).
There are also a multitude of android based e-ink devices which are much more open and configurable but they tend to be more expensive and not as smooth of an experience if all you care about is reading.