AnyOldName3

joined 2 years ago
[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 2 points 19 hours ago

Thermal paper is generally not recyclable, which is another downside.

[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 11 points 19 hours ago

Someone might have thought it was so obvious that it didn't need stating and would just ruin the joke. Alternatively, someone who was somehow unaware of the song and assumed that would be the case for nearly everyone else might have overconfidently decided it was a stretch without looking at the first line of the song.

[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 5 points 21 hours ago

The tories cut funding from the department that decides whether asylum seekers have their claims granted or denied, so there's a big backlog of people who can't legally get a job to support themselves and can't legally be deported, and feeding and housing them is expensive. The right wing press blames this not on the fact that they're all in legal limbo until the backlog is dealt with, and not on the fact that decades of foreign policy mean that there are lots of people in danger unless they flee who have English as their only extra language, so would only be able to get a job after asylum was granted if they were in the UK, but instead on the myth that the government is required by things like the Human Rights Act to provide people a life of luxury if they come here and people are coming from safe places for a free multi-year holiday. Because humans are not rational, people believe the myth, and if the myth were true, it would obviously be a good idea to stop providing luxury hotel accommodation at great expense to the taxpayer.

[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 1 points 23 hours ago

Turning the dehumidifier on ten minutes early means there aren't ten to twenty minutes where the shower's running with no dehumidification where condensation is able to settle on all the walls unimpeded, and the extra condensation takes a couple of extra hours to dry out again. Regardless of whether my family try to turn off the dehumidifier prematurely (and I only mentioned that as why I'd originally set a hygrometer up to graph the humidity in the bathroom, not as an ongoing problem), if that happens several times a day when someone showers, that's more than enough dampness for black mold to form.

[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 3 points 2 days ago (1 children)

I've got a textured PEI bed and when I've printed TPU, the adhesion has been perfect, i.e. good enough that the part wasn't going to go anywhere unless I wanted it to, but still easy enough to remove when the print was done and the bed had cooled. I guess it could vary from filament brand to brand, so it's possibly worth trying the same brand as I used, which was cheap Geeetech stuff. It's £8 a roll, and I've used their cheap PLA for ages. I wouldn't recommend their ABS+, though, as it seems to break down at the lowest temperature that gives reasonable layer adhesion.

[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago (2 children)

So you think the reason a hygrometer can't detect humidity ten minutes before it exists in order to start cooling the dehumidifier's compressor to the temperature it needs to be to start working is human error?

[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago (4 children)

I was going to share a graph from when I put a DHT20 hygrometer in my bathroom to prove to my family that the humidity was the cause of the mould and they should stop turning the dehumidifier off when its built-in hygrometer said it should be running, but unfortunately, it was long enough ago that Home Assistant decided I no longer need my one-every-ten-seconds readings and now only shows hourly readings, which aren't enough to prove my point here. You'll just have to take my word for it that when I did this test, I was surprised to find that although the humidity at the other end of the room started rising quickly after the shower was turned on, it peaked fifteen or twenty minutes after it was turned off again because diffusion without something like a fan or a draught moving the air around can be really slow.

My bathroom's a weird shape as it's long and thin and has a weirdly high ceiling at one end, so it's not going to have typical airflow, but it is a real bathroom that really exists, and I did have data in the past showing it dried out faster if I manually turned the dehumidifier to maximum (so it would run even if its hygrometer said not to) ten minutes before turning the shower on than if I did it immediately before turning the shower on. Whether I'm going to shower in ten minutes is something I can know but a hygrometer can't. This isn't even really related to whether the dehumifier is smart as mine isn't and I can operate its switch as easily as I could operate a smart switch, and my shower isn't electric, so there isn't a switch I need to operate before using it that could be made to do two jobs

[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Again, I’m not sure what components were used in the older model, but given the age I’d be very surprised if the electronics it uses would be more expensive to manufacture than the newer one.

That's fundamentally where you're going wrong, then. 1980s electronics (for a dehumidifier, it wouldn't even be electronics, it'd be electromechanical) are often much more expensive than modern approaches, and even when they're cheaper, it's typically not by much. Over time, it's got cheaper and cheaper to precisely make small things, but the costs of materials haven't meaningfully gone down, so the 1980s approach costs about the same as it did back then, whereas digital electronics have plummeted in cost. Now, anything where the best approach was electromechanical rather than electronic is almost certainly cheaper to do digitally.

Take toasters for example, most toasters don’t have a timer at all. They have a little piece of metal almost touching a contact. When you turn the toaster on, that metal heats up and it bends until it touches that contact, ding toast is done.

Another great example of being out of date. Fifteen years ago, cheap toasters almost always used a bimetallic strip and the dial controlled the position of the contact it touched so it would have to bend more or less before it disconnected. In nearly every modern toaster, however, you'll either have something like a 555 timer and the dial will control a variable capacitor that changes the frequency of an oscillator to make it count slower or faster, or it'll have a dedicated toaster control chip like the BCT5512 and the dial will control a potentiometer that a capacitor drains through. Mouser list the PT8A2511PE toaster controller for £0.111 in bulk, but the cheapest bimetallic switch they carry (which is too basic for a toaster because it's got a fixed switching temperature) is the F13A17005L360100, which is £1.93 in bulk, more than seventeen times the price. (I suspect they used to have cheaper ones back when toasters still used them, and they've been discontinued now toaster manufacturers have stopped ordering them.)

But it’s cheaper and simpler to just do it the old way, and for many applications, that’s fine.

A lot of the time, the old way is more complicated and more expensive. Technology doesn't just let us do things we couldn't before, it also lets us do existing things in new, better ways, and being cheap is one of the most in-demand things. It's lower tech to hire ten labourers with shovels for a week to dig a hole, but it's much cheaper and faster to hire one labourer with a digger to dig it in an hour.

Hell, I’m certain there are dehumidifiers on the market that don’t have any kind of humidity sensor at all. Even simpler…

Having no sensor at all is certainly the cheapest way to do it, but we were talking about ones that do have a sensor, and whether, once you've opted to have a sensor, there's any major cost to making the device smart. If you're aiming so low-end that you don't even have a sensor, then you're clearly not concerned about the marketing benefit of extra features, so wouldn't bother making it smart.

[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 2 points 3 days ago (5 children)

The cheapest hygrometers these days only have a digital output, and a wire and a potentiometer aren't going to be able to query an i2c bus to ask the hygrometer what it's measured without the help of a microcontroller (and the microcontroller might be cheaper than the potentiometer anyway depending on the specific model of each - have you actually looked at the 2025 prices of things before making assertions about what they cost?). The analogue component of a hygrometer that actually does the measurement gives fairly small changes to the resistance/capacitance (depending on the kind of hygrometer), so the results need amplifying. If you're measuring on the same chip, you can get away with a simpler amplifier and digitally compensate for any nonlinearity, whereas to get a strong enough signal to make it to the rest of an analogue circuit without much degradation, you'd need an amplifier that ends up being more complicated than doing everything digitally.

[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 3 points 3 days ago (7 children)

You're missing my point. It's likely that the cheapest way to design and build a dehumidifier these days will already include a microcontroller interpreting results from a digital hygrometer because these components are cheap and easier to work with than purely electronic/electromechanical designs with no microcontroller. The cost of switching from a non-WiFi/Bluetooth/Zigbee microcontroller to one with one or more of these networks is negligible, and once you've got it, it's not meaningfully more expensive to pay a software engineer to expose the on/off switch and hygrometer readings via that network and have the marketing people write Smart! Now with WiFi! than it is to skip it and pay the marketing people to come up with some other nonsense to put on the box. If you care about security as little as the average IoT vendor does, then it's nearly free to turn a dumb device into a smart one, so if it makes a handful of extra people buy the device, manufacturers will make things smart. For a dehumidifier, there are reasons why a handful of people will prefer a smart one, so smart dehumidifiers get made.

[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 1 points 3 days ago (6 children)

In the UK, it's common for electric showers to be on a separate isolator that needs to be turned on before they'll heat up, and it also activates an extractor fan, and most people turn it off again when they're done showering. It's pretty simple for a home automation hobbyist to swap the regular isolator switch for a smart one, and then their system can know when they're about to shower and activate the dehumidifier immediately. This can be much better than waiting ten minutes for enough humidity to diffuse into the dehumidifier for the humidistat to activate then waiting another ten minutes for the cold side to cool enough for any dehumidification to start.

I didn't say a home automation system would be measuring the humidity and reacting. The opportunity to do better comes from the potential to be more proactive if you can figure out a way to tell a computer about impending humidity.

[–] AnyOldName3@lemmy.world 25 points 3 days ago

Don't give JK Rowling ideas.

 

I've just been switched from Freestyle Libre 2 to 3, and (at least in the UK) these need to be requested directly from Abbott instead of via regular NHS prescriptions that go to a pharmacist. To do this, you have to use their patient portal, so you need a password and need to go through their password reset process. The listed requirements are a minimum of eight characters, five lower-case letters, one upper-case letter, a number and a symbol, but there's either also a maximum number of characters (I typically use way more than eight) or a restriction on which symbols are permitted. If you don't meet the hidden extra requirements, you'll get a 404 during the password reset process (which isn't even the right error code for this kind of thing).

It took a lot of tries before my password manager came up with something the website was happy with, and no one seems to have written anything on the searchable parts of the internet about it, so I wasn't sure it was going to work and thought I might just have hit outages on both days I tried, so I'm writing this here in the hope that the next time someone sees the same error, this will show up in a search, and they know they need to change the password they're trying to set.

I'm not going to go into what eventually worked and which characters were allowed, as obviously that'd give away more information about the password I ended up with than I'm comfortable disclosing, so sorry for not specifying precisely what the real requirements are.

 

I've got a 3D printed project, and went over it with a couple of airbrushed coats of a 50/50 mix of Tamiya X-35 (their alcohol-based acrylic semi-gloss) and Mr Color Levelling Thinner. As far as I can tell, it looks good so far, but now the room next to the one I sprayed in smells of solvent a few hours later, despite extractor fans running. I knew the lacquer thinner was nasty, so bought a respirator, and haven't been in the room with the model without it (hence only knowing that the next room stinks), but would like to know when I won't need it anymore. The best I've been able to find with Google is the ten-minute touch-dry time, but I'm assuming the VOCs will take longer to be entirely gone.

 

Edit 1: I'm attaching the image again. If there's still no photo, blame Jerboa and not the alcohol I've consumed.

Edit 3: edit 2 is gone. However, an imgur link should now be here!

Edit 4: I promise the photo of some plugs does not contain erotic material (unless you have very specific and abnormal fetishes). I can't find the button to tell that to imgur, though. You can blame that on the alcohol.

Edit 5: s/done/some/g

Edit 6: I regret mentioning the dartboard, which was a safe distance below these sockets, and seems to be distracting people from the fact that one's the wrong way up. I've now replaced the imgur link with a direct upload now I'm back on my desktop the next day.

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/383055

Scroll to Update Three for a description of what turned out to be the problem, and potential solutions on Lemmy.world's end.

When I visit lemmy.world in either Firefox or Chrome, go to the log in page, enter my credentials, and press the Login button, it changes to a spinner and spins forever. No error is logged to the browser console when I press the button.

On the other hand, when using Jerboa on my phone, I can vote, comment and post just fine. That makes me think it's not an issue with this account.

I was briefly able to log in on my desktop a few days ago, but don't think I did anything differently when it worked.

Update

I tried again with my username lowercased, and with the password copied and pasted instead of autofilled, and it worked despite not working a few seconds earlier when I tried it the usual way. I'm going to log out and see which of the two things it was that made the difference.

Update Two

Copying and pasting the password while leaving the username with mixed case also let me in, so it's somehow related to the password manager autofill.

Update Three

I figured it out. I generated a password longer than lemmy.world's password length limit. When creating the account, it appears to have truncated it to sixty characters. When using the password manager to autofill Jerboa, it's also truncated it to sixty characters. When copying and pasting the password from the password manager manually, it truncated it to sixty characters, too. However, the browser extension autofill managed to include the extra characters, too, so the data in the textbox wasn't correct.

In case an admin or Lemmy developer sees this, I'd recommend:

  • Not limiting the password length. It should be hashed and salted anyway, so it doesn't increase storage requirements if it's huge.
  • Giving feedback when creating an account with a too-long password that it's invalid for being too long instead of simply truncating it. Ideally, the password requirements would be displayed before you'd entered the password, too.
  • As mentioned by one of the commenters, giving feedback when an incorrect password is entered.
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