I found a lot of useful stuff from this video from Foureyes, particularly around the 6 minute mark for the in/out method on the jointer. There's also a similar up/down method if you have a table saw.
Ah, yes. I overlooked the budget. Well, I can at least attest to the quality of Qidi brand out of the box. Not sure on longevity, but I'm impressed so far.
I don't own a Q1 pro, and my only experience prior to my current printer was an ender 3 pro.
But I bought a Qidi Plus 4 a couple of months ago and have been extremely happy with it. It's fast, reliable, and has the heated chamber and high temp hotend. Multi-material is supposed to get added via the Qidi box in the first quarter if you wanted to add it on later.
I haven't printed any engineering grade material on it yet, but all the reviews I've seen say it's a piece of cake with advanced materials.
I think Sunlu's 2 most recent dryers fit 3kg. The S4 requires printed parts to heighten though.
I do enjoy lots and lots of dollars. If you are serious and in the Midwest, let me know!
That's a good question that I don't know the answer to. Credenza seems like the sexy marketing term, like how so much stuff is "mid century modern" now!
The outside corners are indeed all miter joints. In hindsight, I'd do splines. I did reinforce the bottom miters with dowels, but the top miters were tight enough that I felt comfortable with just glue.
The speakers are quite old, but the player is fairly new to my knowledge. The black monstrosity price was tough to beat at $free.99!
There are quite a few Sturgill albums in the house!
It is a single story home. I'm sure there is a more ideal setup, but it seems to be working fine for my brother's purposes.
For some clarity, I did not make the speakers, but attempted to match the wood as closely as I could for the credenza.
Here is a picture of the entertainment center, hairpin legs as a temporary placeholder. Made with 3/4" walnut plywood for the top. Wooden legs can be any species, but my intent is to dye it black.
That's true. The only thing I can think of for getting an hourglass shape would be potentially applying uneven pressure during the cuts. The track saw track should give you a dead straight line, but only if you aren't applying any lateral force during the entire cut.