StopSpazzing

joined 2 years ago
[–] StopSpazzing@lemmy.world 1 points 1 month ago

Really that bad?

 

Hello, everyone. I have a 5 year old voxelabs aquila (ender 3v2). It worked great for 2 years then started modding it, since then problems. Im at the point with bltouch and klipper from raspi4 and custom fans that it might not be worth my time to even fix. Previous 3d printed fan shroud broke and printer another, but there is supports in the blower tubes i cant remove fully plus removed the x? Stop sensor as thought was good after starting with klipper and setting it all up but it smashes to the end of the line and errors so that needs to fixed. Plus never really got the bltouch working due to wrong offsets. Idk sounds like small issues i could fix but i just want a working 3d printer.

Ive been seeing all new printers now have auto bed leveling, direct drive, most have pressure advance, vibration compensation and other features that i kinda would like but i only print hobby stuff and current printer has been sitting for over a year due to not needing it and the fact its not working.

Basically should i just replace it with a used Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro or a new Elegoo Centuri Carbon, or just fix what I have?

[–] StopSpazzing@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

Exactly my thoughts ;)

[–] StopSpazzing@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

Found it! https://youtu.be/PF8Dfgl3Wx4

Omg the comments on the thread regarding it are priceless:

https://linustechtips.com/topic/1241553-can-i-mix-sodimm-ram-using-a-adapter-with-dimm-ram/?do=findComment&comment=13979574

RadiatingLight Posted September 1, 2020

It's sketchy to say the least. Just buy 8GB DDR4, it's not even huge cost savings compared to buying the adapter.

[–] StopSpazzing@lemmy.world 4 points 1 month ago (2 children)

Always thought Mariana Trench would be a great place to hide bodies in weighted steel barrels...

[–] StopSpazzing@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago (2 children)

Didnt LTT also do this, only remember it being slower but usable.

[–] StopSpazzing@lemmy.world 1 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

Same exact issue. Started recently, maybe 2-3 months ago? Def a bug and needs to be fixed. Tried all manners od changes including using vpn and mobile internet to confirm issue isnt on home network. Please fix this isue dev.

[–] StopSpazzing@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

GPLv3 should be the standard licence for all opensouce, IMHO.

[–] StopSpazzing@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago (2 children)

Cant it just be automated? Started reading it and was like this sounds dumb to manually do.

[–] StopSpazzing@lemmy.world 1 points 1 month ago

I had this in my signatures. Those were the fun days.

[–] StopSpazzing@lemmy.world 1 points 1 month ago

Ok that's better. Thought it was like every episode regardless of cut size

[–] StopSpazzing@lemmy.world 1 points 1 month ago

Bugs of the sea

 

I am finally reaching out as I am at my wits end and need experienced people to help me resolve my printing issue.

I have a Voxelabs Aquila (Ender 3 v2) formerly running marlin with small but manageable annoyances like overhang and manual bed leveling and thus began my journey after a year of using Aquila to start modding/upgrading the thing.

First thing i did was upgrade the fans and shroud, this improved prints slightly but was still not satisfied.

Moved to Klipper and added BLTouch and this is where all my problems started. After hours of following guides and troubleshooting of setting them both up, i still get very little bed adhesion and layers are not smooth together (gaps) with the same 3d slicing software i have been using before the switch (yes changed it to Klipper firmware in slicer)

As you can see in the picture this is after a manual bed level. Where do i go from here?

Edit 2: fully cleaned nozzle, hotend, and bed without any other changes with same results.

Edit 1: forgot to add my printer.cfg

[include mainsail.cfg]

[stepper_x]
step_pin: PC2
dir_pin: PB9
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^PA5
position_endstop: 3
position_max: 235
homing_speed: 50

[stepper_y]
step_pin: PB8
dir_pin: PB7
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^PA6
position_endstop: -17
position_max: 228
position_min: -17
homing_speed: 50

[stepper_z]
step_pin: PB6
dir_pin: !PB5
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 8
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop
#position_endstop: 0.0
position_max: 250
position_min: -6

[extruder]
max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0
step_pin: PB4
dir_pin: PB3
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 34.406
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: PA1
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: PC5
#control: pid
# tuned for stock hardware with 200 degree Celsius target
#pid_Kp: 21.527
#pid_Ki: 1.063
#pid_Kd: 108.982
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 250

[bltouch]
# Can't move this configuration to include because of z-offset adjustment
sensor_pin: ^PB1
control_pin: PB0
x_offset: -28
y_offset: -15
#z_offset = 0
samples: 2
speed: 2
#pin_move_time: 0.500
#probe_with_touch_mode: False
#pin_up_reports_not_triggered: True
#pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: True
#stow_on_each_sample: False

[safe_z_home]
home_xy_position: 125,125 #this should be the center of your bed
speed: 50 
z_hop: 10
z_hop_speed: 5

[bed_mesh]
speed: 80
horizontal_move_z: 5
mesh_min: 3, 33       #!!min and max co-ords are based on the probes location not the nozzle!!
mesh_max: 207, 213  #needs to be calibrated for your individual printer
probe_count: 5,5 #this is the number of probing points on X then Y axis
mesh_pps: 2,2
fade_start: 1
fade_end: 10
fade_target: 0

[bed_screws]
screw1: 25, 25
screw2: 195, 25
screw3: 195, 195
screw4: 25, 195

[heater_bed]
heater_pin: PA2
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: PC4
#control: pid
# tuned for stock hardware with 50 degree Celsius target
#pid_Kp: 54.027
#pid_Ki: 0.770
#pid_Kd: 948.182
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 130

[fan]
pin: PA0

[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0
restart_method: command

[printer]
kinematics: cartesian
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 3000
max_z_velocity: 5
max_z_accel: 100

#*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ---------------------->
#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.
#*#
#*# [extruder]
#*# control = pid
#*# pid_kp = 31.251
#*# pid_ki = 2.510
#*# pid_kd = 97.268
#*#
#*# [heater_bed]
#*# control = pid
#*# pid_kp = 69.577
#*# pid_ki = 1.022
#*# pid_kd = 1184.541
#*#
#*# [bltouch]
#*# z_offset = 3.609
 

Looking to combine:

ESP8266 1/2/4/8/16 Channel Way Wireless WIFI Relay Module AC/DC 5V/7-28V/5-80V + Usbc trigger 12v modules + 12v 10A (possibly more or 2 split between half of relays) power supply connected in parallel across all relays + Buck converter to drop 12v to 5v to power relays

Purpose? Want to migrate all my power for my devices for my network equipment that support 12v to usbc. I will probably get the 16 relay and split up 4 sections to the usbc specs (5v,9v,12v,20v) for all my device power needs.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Has anyone tried this?

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