StrawberryPigtails

joined 1 year ago
[–] StrawberryPigtails 4 points 6 hours ago (1 children)

Huh. Did not know that.

But also why?! If I thought that Google search would be more effective I just would have used Google to begin with.

[–] StrawberryPigtails 3 points 6 hours ago

Because even if you have the skills needed to referb an old printer, there is no garentee that the drivers will function on a modern OS. Or in my case, in Linux. It's a lot easier to just buy a new printer from another brand if you need a printer.

Honestly though, most people don't print enough anymore for buying a printer to make sense. Cheaper to just go to your local Kinko's or whatever and have them print out the 3 or 4 pages per year. If that's not an option, get a laser printer.

[–] StrawberryPigtails 0 points 1 day ago (2 children)

Probably because it’s not that big a deal and would cost far more to fix than it cost us in fraud. The only problem free system is a nonexistent system. WTF should I care that some database thinks someone is as old as our nation. Who knows, it might possibly be true.

[–] StrawberryPigtails 5 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Pretty sure I heard about this when Bush Jr. was President.

[–] StrawberryPigtails 4 points 3 days ago (1 children)

So this is my third go at replying. First attempt was damn near collage level. Second attempt found me rewriting the Internet for Dummies book that originally taught me about how the internet works when I was 10. Seriously, if you can find a copy of that particular edition, give it a read. It’s the third edition from 1995. You may need help from !piracy@lemmy.dbzer0.com to find it though.

Honestly, the Fediverse has the same problem that the internet itself has. That is that it is far easier to just use than it is to explain what it is but the fediverse and the internet itself work almost exactly the same way, at least at the user level.

I’m going to completely ignore everything under the hood for the sake of simplicity. Additionally I’m going to over simplify to the point of inaccuracy, because it gets really complicated really quickly once you scratch the surface.

Imagine a spider web. Each point where the web interconnects is a server. Each server on that web can communicate with every other server on that web (don’t ask how, that’s part of the bit we are ignoring).

Now each fediverse service is kinda on its own web. Lemmy is on one web, Mastodon is on another, Pixelfed another, websites, email, Matrix, NextCloud, XMPP, IRC, Gopher, Usenet, and a million more are each on their own little webs.

It doesn’t really matter which Lemmy server you pick to join the conversation on Lemmy but your account is only with that server. But because that server is a part of the Lemmy web you can talk to anyone that is also on that web.

That’s the best Eli5 explanation I can give. It’s not particularly accurate because anything, any system, involving more than about 3 people will contain more exceptions than rules. And the fediverse has a lot more than 3 people in it.

My advice for new users on the fediverse is, once you have decided what service (Lemmy, Mastodon, Pixelfed, email, or whatever) either join a server that is most in line with your interests, or look up the largest servers of that service and pick one from the lower end of the top 20.

[–] StrawberryPigtails 18 points 3 days ago (5 children)

God, this video makes me feel old. The fact that folks can be confused about how a federated service works boggles my mind. I mean, I get it. Walled gardens have been the default for 20 years now. But still.

[–] StrawberryPigtails 5 points 4 days ago

I know Voyager does, at least on iOS. I would suspect most of them do.

[–] StrawberryPigtails 2 points 6 days ago

Generally speaking, you're not wrong. But I'd say it also depends on the use case and your threat environment. If it's not publicly exposed, I'm generally OK with running an older version of software. In the case of chat software, for instance, it would have to be available only on local network or a private VPN like Tailscale. That can limit its usefulness though.

[–] StrawberryPigtails 1 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Revert to an older version?

[–] StrawberryPigtails 15 points 1 week ago (4 children)

Your good if:

  • It's self-hosted and open source
  • It's self-hosted and closed source, but doesn't require online check in ( the DAW Reaper, for example)

It's a toss up if:

  • It's self-hosted and closed source, and requires online check in.
  • It's self-hosted and closed source, and requires a constant internet connection
  • It's cloud, but open source. (you can generally self-host in this instance)

And you're screwed if:

  • It's cloud and closed source.

Self hosted in this instance means anything that installs and runs completely locally or on your own personal servers. If someone else's servers are required I would count it as cloud. Phone apps generally count as "cloud" in this instance.

[–] StrawberryPigtails 1 points 1 week ago (2 children)

That's certainly one of the more aggressive Marine Corps ads I've seen in a while.

From my understanding most of the military branches have been missing their recruitment targets for some time, to the point where it is likely to start impacting their operational capability at some point in the near future. If I remember correctly, the Air Force was the only branch that actually hit their targets. I first noticed an uptick in recruitment advertising about 2ish years ago. Wasn't too surprising given what we were learning (again) from the Ukraine War.

This seems more blatantly aimed at those seeking violence or views the use of violence romantically, but that does match the Marine Corps purpose and ethos. They are the hammer of the US international politics. They don't do subtle.

Growing up, my mom had a sweater she got from my dad (I think) that read "If it absolutely must be destroyed overnight, U.S. Marines", a play on the US postal service slogan from around the same time period.

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/24748170

Supply and Demand.

If there is no supply of good public infrastructure, inclusive institutions, good governance, etc. people will go elsewhere.

And also, lol.

 

Original Post:

I recently had a Proxmox node I was using as a NAS fail catastrophically. Not surprising as it was repurposed 12 year old desktop. I was able to salvage my data drive, but the boot drive was toast. Looks like the sata controller went out and fried the SSD I was using as the boot drive. This system was running TurnKey FileServer as a LXC with the media storage on a subvol on a ZFS storage pool.

My new system is based on OpenMediaVault and I'm am happy with it, but I'm hitting my head against a brick wall trying to get it to mount the ZFS drive from the old system. I tried installing ZFS using the instructions here as OMV is based on Debian but haven't had any luck so far.

Solved:

  1. Download and install OMV Extras
  2. OMV's web admin panel, go to System -> Plugins and install the Kernel Plugin
  3. Go to System -> Kernel and click the blue icon that says Proxmox (looks like a box with a down arrow as of Jan 2025) and install the latest Proxmox kernel from the drop down menu.
  4. Reboot
  5. Go back to the web panel, System -> Plugins and install the plugin openmediavault-zfs.
  6. Go to Storage -> zfs -> Pools and click on the blue icon Tools -> Import Pool. From here you can import all existing zfs pools or a single pool.
 

I've been looking for a good Bluetooth speaker for a while now. My old one, a 1st gen Anker SoundCore that I bought in late in 2018 decided to quit working on me 2020 when the battery failed. I decided that I didn't want another one that would only last me a year or two before it failed. The ones that have actually decent sound just cost too much for me to be able to justify that. That one requirement turned out to be a big problem as almost nobody makes a decent Bluetooth speaker with a replaceable battery. Except, the power tool makers.

About 15 years ago (give or take) I had owned a Ryobi Bluetooth radio. The sound was crap and it wasn't exactly what you would call compact but it was loud and it took a good 5 years of actual, honest to god, abuse until it finally died. It fell into a pan of used motor oil. I cried. Not so much over the radio but rather over the 4ah 18v battery that had been powering it. Those things were damned expensive at the time.

So when I noticed that Ryobi had produced a new Bluetooth speaker, I figured that it would probably take a beating. Question was, how was the sound and more importantly for me, how loud could it get. Unfortunately, everybody seemed to be sleeping on it and hadn't done more than a cursory review on it.

Price wise, it's a bit eye watering with a $100USD MSRP with a 2ah battery included but it does seem to be on discount frequently. Which is good because I recommend getting a 3ah battery for it.

The speaker is a triangular rod a little taller than a 20oz coke bottle. Call it 8 inches long and 2 across. Feels well built, though not as solid as the Anker Soundcore. Ryobi claims that it has a IP67 rating and there are rubber bumpers on every surface the thing could possibly rest on. Feels like it weighs about a pound and a half.

On one end there are it's controls, a power button, play/pause, volume, and the Verse Link pairing button (which is not for pairing Bluetooth). On the other end is the battery door held closed by a toggle clasp and sealed with a rubber gasket. And finally on the side, opposite the speaker, is a USB-C port for charging only. I did check, and no, he charge port will not power the unit without a battery installed.

Sadly, no 3.5mm audio jack nor can the USB-C port handle audio in. This is a Bluetooth only speaker.

Bluetooth pairing is pretty simple, just press and hold the play/pause button while it is on and it will drop its current connection and enter pairing mode. I'm not sure what Bluetooth standards it is using, but the only device I have that I couldn't get to pair with it was my 9 year old Dell Latitude. It could see the speaker but I was never able to get the laptop to pair with it. My desktop did not have the same problem so it's probably just the ancient bluetooth chip on my laptop.

The sound quality is excellent within the limits of my damaged hearing. An audiophile coworker of mine (whose hearing is even worse due to spinning lug nuts off heavy trucks with air impacts all day) says the bass is a bit muddy but otherwise good. As for how loud, at max volume, playing Crab Rave on YouTube, my Apple Watch was showing 90dB 3 feet from the speaker. So more than loud enough for my needs and loud enough to continue damaging my hearing.

Ryobi claims that the 2ah battery it comes with will last "up to" 6 hours and that seems about right. The one time I actually used the battery it came with, it died about an hour before my 8 hour shift ended. I put the 3ah battery in it and it lasts longer than my attention span for testing it. In practice, the 3ah battery lasts me about a shift and a half, playing audio about 60% - 70% of the time.

The batteries this uses has a pair of party tricks, the first of which is actually pretty useful. While you can certainly charge the battery using an external charging dock or via the speaker's own USB-C port, the batteries themselves have a USB-C port on them which can be used for charging the battery. It can charge via any USB charger.

The second party trick is that the battery can also be used as a very small, very slow, 10W USB-C PD power bank to charge a phone or something. I get the feeling that the engineer in charge of designing the battery said "It's got the port, why not!" and nobody in accounting thought to stop them. And no, that ability does not pass through the speaker, and yes, I tried. Though I did find out that my iPhone 16 and iPad Air can themselves act as powerbanks, which I did not know.

About the Verse Link. It's not something I have a use for and haven't tested, but Ryobi crows about this feature more that anything else about this speaker so I figure I'll mention it. The Verse Link is a way to link up several Verse Link speakers up to a single audio source with a range of up to 125'. Again, not something I have a use for, but might be handy at a pool party or something.

All in all, I really like this speaker. Is it "buy it for life"? Probably not, but it does have the makings to be a piece of kit that will last a good long time. How long, I suspect, will depend more on whether Ryobi kills off the USB Lithium line like they did the Tek4 line. I don't think they will, but time will tell.

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/24957830

So I had a taillight bulb go out on me this week, and changing that bulb was simple enough, but also not particularly obvious. Had to look it up and could only find a overly long winded youtube video on it. In the interest of saving some one else the headache of scrubbing through a 20 min video to get answer that could have been explained in 2 minute short, I figured I would write it out.

Tools and Parts list

  • Flat head screwdriver
  • 8mm deepwell socket or wrench (A standard socket might work, but a baby socket won't. Long bolts.)
  • Replacement bulb
    • The red brake and taillight bulb is a white 7443 bulb. )
    • The turn signal bulb is an amber 7440A
    • The reverse light is a 921

Instructions:

1.) Open the trunk. (Yes, I'm a smart ass :-D )
2.) On the rear (driver's perspective) corner of the trunk on the side with the blown bulb, look for a removable plastic rivet. Place under the center part of the rivet, a flathead screwdriver and lever the center part up, then pull the rivet out. If you try to remove the rivet before poping the center part up you will break the rivet.
3.) Pull the carpet to the side to reveal where the back of the tail light assembly should be. You will find 2 long bolts secured with 8mm nuts.
4.) Remove the 8mm nuts.
5.) Applying rearward pressure to the exposed bolts and the outside of the assembly, remove the assembly. It slides off to the rear, not the side. This will take a bit for force, but not much. Be careful not to damage the tail light assembly or damage the wiring harness. The wiring harness has roughly 8 inches of play.
6.) You now have access to the bulb holders for the tail/brake light, turn signal, and reverse light. The bulb holders twist loose and it shouldn't take much force. The bulbs themselves are a friction fit into the bulb holders.
7.) Reverse these steps to reassemble.

 

So I had a taillight bulb go out on me this week, and changing that bulb was simple enough, but also not particularly obvious. Had to look it up and could only find a overly long winded youtube video on it. In the interest of saving some one else the headache of scrubbing through a 20 min video to get answer that could have been explained in 2 minute short, I figured I would write it out.

Tools and Parts list

  • Flat head screwdriver
  • 8mm deepwell socket or wrench (A standard socket might work, but a baby socket won't. Long bolts.)
  • Replacement bulb
    • The red brake and taillight bulb is a white 7443 bulb. )
    • The turn signal bulb is an amber 7440A
    • The reverse light is a 921

Instructions:

1.) Open the trunk. (Yes, I'm a smart ass :-D )
2.) On the rear (driver's perspective) corner of the trunk on the side with the blown bulb, look for a removable plastic rivet. Place under the center part of the rivet, a flathead screwdriver and lever the center part up, then pull the rivet out. If you try to remove the rivet before poping the center part up you will break the rivet.
3.) Pull the carpet to the side to reveal where the back of the tail light assembly should be. You will find 2 long bolts secured with 8mm nuts.
4.) Remove the 8mm nuts.
5.) Applying rearward pressure to the exposed bolts and the outside of the assembly, remove the assembly. It slides off to the rear, not the side. This will take a bit for force, but not much. Be careful not to damage the tail light assembly or damage the wiring harness. The wiring harness has roughly 8 inches of play.
6.) You now have access to the bulb holders for the tail/brake light, turn signal, and reverse light. The bulb holders twist loose and it shouldn't take much force. The bulbs themselves are a friction fit into the bulb holders.
7.) Reverse these steps to reassemble.

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