Trail

joined 2 years ago
[–] Trail@lemmy.world 1 points 2 hours ago

I have read that the Bambu filaments do not guarantee with same thickness very well compared to other manufacturers (0.03mm instead of 0.02mm tolerance) and this could play a factor with small nozzles. I had in mind to try other manufacturers, but they are not so easily available for similar price in my area, so I have postponed it until I finish my current project, but I am keeping it in mind.

I should probably buy some calipers and actually measure it.

[–] Trail@lemmy.world 2 points 2 hours ago (1 children)

I would guess the z-offset should be fine because for any other filament it works correctly.

I will try to print a test for determining the flow rate for this specific filament after my print is done. I am using the default Bambu settings at the moment, and didn't have any issue on other filaments so far, but I guess it's worth checking out.

 

Hey guys,

I am using Bambu lab sunflower yellow. I have dried it, and washed my plate. With this particular filament the first layer looks like shit, but the rest of the print turns out fine. Other filaments have proper thick lines of equal height and so on.

I only have a problem with this particular color sinw opening the filament. Is it just the filament being shit or you can think of anything else I could check?

[–] Trail@lemmy.world 5 points 1 day ago (3 children)

The satellite computers don't perform as much work, produce as much heat, or are as densely placed as those in the data centers.

[–] Trail@lemmy.world 2 points 1 day ago

I know of one shitty ticketmaster-like site that I may unfortunately have to use like once a year.

[–] Trail@lemmy.world 7 points 3 days ago

Quality control

[–] Trail@lemmy.world 7 points 9 months ago

Yeah I don't really get it either. Even the last picture in the original article, showing a bunch of for loops, is practically one-dimensional. So I don't get the prime benefit of the idea, to be honest.

[–] Trail@lemmy.world 5 points 9 months ago

The same as winamp 4.

[–] Trail@lemmy.world 3 points 9 months ago (2 children)

Anyone can explain?

[–] Trail@lemmy.world 3 points 9 months ago

I will have to add The House in Fata Morgana to the list.

[–] Trail@lemmy.world 1 points 9 months ago

Currently at the end of Danganronpa 2. Huh. Let's see.

[–] Trail@lemmy.world 9 points 9 months ago (1 children)

Santa Claus intensifies.

[–] Trail@lemmy.world 1 points 9 months ago

Not quite telling. We have customers from various countries.

 

I was especially fond of M&M 6 7 and 8 as a kid. I have also played the most recent, 10, which while different and flawed in many ways, was still good enough to be enjoyable. I have also liked things like Wizardry 8 in the past.

I did try to replay 7 recently, but I thought that it has not maybe aged too well as the combat was too grindy for my current tastes.

Can anyone recommend something similar perhaps?

 

Recently bought an A1 mini with AMS, which has been generally great. I have been printing various things, but was thinking if the wasted filament during color changes could be further reduced.

I was wondering, if the color change happens on a high layer, why does the prime tower need to be built as high in order to flush when the color change happens? Is it not a good idea to have the prime tower not generated up until the color change is needed, and then start building it on the plate directly?

This would imply z axis movement whenever the color changes, but is it bad for some reason? It would take slightly more time, but the filament change already takes plenty of time so I assume it is not a factor of the already printed model cooling or so. Could it be something like we want to avoid unnecessary Z axis movements to avoid alignment mistakes maybe with the current layer, if the z movement is not considered precise enough?

Or it is just considered that the aavings of building a shorter tower any not that much comparatively? Anyone more knowledgeable has any thoughts?

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