5
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by casey@mander.xyz to c/homebrewing@sopuli.xyz

I bought several of these beer shanks back in 2015. I took it apart recently to clean.

Since the description says it's stainless steel I figured I could clean the rust off of the barb insert. Looks like it wasn't made of stainless steel.

Should I just reuse this thing or get a new one? If so I need the specs on this part so I will know what I need to buy.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

EDIT #1: Would this be a suitable replacement?

LitKiwi 2PCS Keg Coupler Barb Connector,Stainless Steel 304 Beer Kegerator Sankey Couplers,Hex Nut 5/8"G Thread x 1/4" Barb Beer Line Tailpiece Nipple Fitting with Sealing Gasket Washer https://a.co/d/g6HhP2c

EDIT #2: I emailed the customer support at MoreBeer and I got this response. They have great customer service.

Hi Casey,

Thanks for reaching out. This looks like a standard shank tailpiece. Here is a straight version, along with a curved version, in case it makes things easier.

Feel free to send me the invoice number after you order. I'm happy to refund the shipping cost for the inconvenience. Thanks!

Cheers! Zack

Zachary Marin Customer Service Representative | MoreFlavor! Inc. | 1-800-600-0033 Hours: Mon - Wed, Fri | 7:00 am PST - 4:00 pm P Visit Our Sites MoreBeer.com, MoreBeerPro.com MoreWine.com, MoreWinePro.com BrewmasterWholesale.com

[-] casey@mander.xyz 4 points 2 months ago
[-] casey@mander.xyz 5 points 2 months ago

Heidegger, Heidegger was a boozy beggar who could think you under the table.

[-] casey@mander.xyz 3 points 2 months ago

It's a fun little game!

[-] casey@mander.xyz 3 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago)

Awesome.. Thanks. I know exactly what part you are talking about.

Block 5140032-73

[-] casey@mander.xyz 3 points 3 months ago

You may be right about the tightness. I noticed that the spinning gets smoother when the saw is on it's side as seen here in the second video I made. https://youtu.be/MdXE7IPnA6s?si=AteFwlZ1x2kFfOVt

6
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by casey@mander.xyz to c/beginner_woodworking@lemmy.ml

cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/12406051

I'm not sure where the right place to post this would be, but here goes.

I bought this DW745 Type 2 saw off of Facebook Marketplace. I think it was abused. I replaced both of the elevating shafts (5140100-04 & 5140100-05). I also had to replace both of the bevel gears (5140061-65).

The aluminum housing seems to be okay and the lifting shafts move in and out without much resistance. I'm still getting this chunky movement when I raise and lower the blade.

I'm looking for advice before I go though the whole process of replacing the entire aluminum housing on the motor.

7
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by casey@mander.xyz to c/diy@lemmy.ml

cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/12406051

I'm not sure where the right place to post this would be, but here goes.

I bought this DW745 Type 2 saw off of Facebook Marketplace. I think it was abused. I replaced both of the elevating shafts (5140100-04 & 5140100-05). I also had to replace both of the bevel gears (5140061-65).

The aluminum housing seems to be okay and the lifting shafts move in and out without much resistance. I'm still getting this chunky movement when I raise and lower the blade.

I'm looking for advice before I go though the whole process of replacing the entire aluminum housing on the motor.

25
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by casey@mander.xyz to c/woodworking@lemmy.ca

I'm not sure where the right place to post this would be, but here goes.

I bought this DW745 Type 2 saw off of Facebook Marketplace. I think it was abused. I replaced both of the elevating shafts (5140100-04 Diagram # 82 & 5140100-05 Diagram # 84). I also had to replace both of the bevel gears (5140061-65 Diagram # 56).

The aluminum housing seems to be okay and the lifting shafts move in and out without much resistance. I'm still getting this chunky movement when I raise and lower the blade.

I'm looking for advice before I go though the whole process of replacing the entire aluminum housing (Gear Case A25607 Diagram # 213) on the motor.

DeWalt DW745 Exploded Diagram

5

I just got a leather strop for the first time in my sharpening journey and what a difference!

I sharpened all the straight edge knives at my in-laws before Thanksgiving Day and finished them with the strop and compound. Unreal!

I'll post links to what I used if it's allowed.

56
submitted 10 months ago by casey@mander.xyz to c/mycology@mander.xyz
[-] casey@mander.xyz 12 points 10 months ago

Freaking sweet find.

If only you know where it came from you can get another one next year because they come back.

Hint hint: don't tell anyone where you found it.

[-] casey@mander.xyz 4 points 10 months ago

HE HATES THESE CANS

[-] casey@mander.xyz 7 points 10 months ago

I just planted a bunch of driller Diakon Radishes in my front yard to do some biological tillage on all of my clay soil.

Lots of info on YouTube about doing this.

I plan to leave most of them in the ground to compost, but I plan to pull some for eating.

The cool thing about them is that pull needed nutrients from deep underground.

This is what I bought: https://meritseed.com/driller-daikon-radish-annual/

[-] casey@mander.xyz 2 points 10 months ago

I'm gunshy on being hopeful.

How is this going to fsck us?

34
submitted 11 months ago by casey@mander.xyz to c/composting@slrpnk.net
9
submitted 11 months ago by casey@mander.xyz to c/composting@slrpnk.net
18
submitted 11 months ago by casey@mander.xyz to c/green@lemmy.ml

cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/2968180

cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/2967556

I know I can send soil samples to my local university extension office for testing, but how do I test soil for glyphosate-based herbicides, lead, arsenic, and other contaminates?

As a citizen scientist I'm about to get into composting more on my property and would like to know more.

2
submitted 11 months ago by casey@mander.xyz to c/reclamation@slrpnk.net

cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/2967556

I know I can send soil samples to my local university extension office for testing, but how do I test soil for glyphosate-based herbicides, lead, arsenic, and other contaminates?

As a citizen scientist I'm about to get into composting more on my property and would like to know more.

5
submitted 11 months ago by casey@mander.xyz to c/composting@slrpnk.net

cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/2967556

I know I can send soil samples to my local university extension office for testing, but how do I test soil for glyphosate-based herbicides, lead, arsenic, and other contaminates?

As a citizen scientist I'm about to get into composting more on my property and would like to know more.

10
submitted 11 months ago* (last edited 11 months ago) by casey@mander.xyz to c/soilscience@slrpnk.net

I know I can send soil samples to my local university extension office for testing, but how do I test soil for glyphosate-based herbicides, lead, arsenic, and other contaminates?

As a citizen scientist I'm about to get into composting more on my property and would like to know more.

[-] casey@mander.xyz 2 points 11 months ago

I know you can send soil to be tested by your local university extension, but how do you test for conaminents like used hydrocarbons, arsenic, lead, glyphosate-based herbicides, etc?

I am about to embark on a hobby of composting and would like to know.

[-] casey@mander.xyz 5 points 11 months ago

Yep. Don't eat it and don't let your pets near it.

Really common in greenhouses due to their hot and humid climate (like tropical conditions).

view more: next ›

casey

joined 1 year ago