scutiger

Back in 2008 I bought an Overboard waterproof backpack. That thing took a beating for almost 15 years before the straps started giving up. It's been through months-long trips and Canadian winters and saw near-daily use for the entire time. One thing that I loved is that I could take it on a plane, and it just fit as a carry-on, and it could comfortably squeeze underneath the seats on a plane. At the time, I heartily recommended it to everyone.

Unfortunately after 15 years, the original model was long discontinued, and they didn't offer repairs, so I decided to buy one of their newer models. The material is thinner and flimsier, and it only took about 6 months before it started cracking where the new design forces it to flex. It's also limited to either sealing it by clipping it where it rolls up or holding the roll with a weak piece of velcro, whereas my old one had clips at the bottom of the bag which allowed it to seal and pack much better. Anyway, the poor quality of my second purchase means I don't recommend their stuff anymore.

Anyway, does anyone have any recommendations for a good waterproof backpack? I don't necessarily need a dry bag as I don't expect to ever submerge it, but I would like to keep stuff dry under monsoon rains for example. I need something durable and packable, and ideally something carry-on size, about 30L.

I appreciate any help

I've been biking my whole life, but I've never had a bike that shifted properly. Like I've literally bought a bike, and right from the shop, the shifter's clicks don't line up with the gears properly. And then it's a game of going up two clicks and then back down one to get the chain lined up properly.

So how do I get it just right? The bike I have has Shimano twist shifters all the clicks numbered, but the numbers don't line up with the actual gears.

The closest I've gotten it is where it works perfectly when the bike is on the lift, but as soon as there's weight on it, it goes out of sync again.

I've been tasked with finding gear motors to replace a model that we use. If I'm looking for something exact, I can usually find what I need, but if I have a margin of error for what I need, it gets harder to find what I want.

As an example, I need a right angle gear motor running at 90vdc. Fine so far. But I can use anything around 1/7 to 1/10 HP, and approximately 90 RPM with a decent margin of error both ways.

We don't care where it comes from, but I don't even know where to look.

I'm running KDE on Nobara, and every time I power on my computer, there's something in the clipboard leftover from the previous session despite that setting being turned off. I'm not 100% sure, but sometimes I think that it's not even the last thing I copied. I'd have to make a mental note to check every time.

Is there something I can do to fix this besides the basic system settings dialog?

So far it looks like KDEConnect may be passing my clipboard back and forth between my PC and my phone. I'll have to wait and see how it changes after disabling clipboard sharing.

EDIT: The next day, I'm going to say this solved the issue for me. For anyone else wondering, in the KDEConnect settings, you can either disable clipboard sharing entirely or prevent automatically sharing the clipboard, which lets you manually share the clipboard only when you want to.

I was playing Ark Survival Ascended when my system locked up. No response from the mouse or keyboard, screen frozen, sound loop about 1 second long. I let it sit for a minute, thinking maybe it'll break out of it, and eventually had to force the power off with the power button.

I restarted my system, and now my performance in games is really bad, I'm getting about 20fps where I used to get 80-100, sometimes it gets so bad it goes into the single digits. I get stuttering sound as well and some pretty bad input lag. In Ark, I can see the textures slowly pop in over time, which normally happens in a matter of a second or two.

Looking at CoreCtrl, if I set it to high performance mode, the GPU's power usage peaks around 150 Watts instead of 300+.

I'm running Nobara on a 7900X3D and an RX 7900XT with 32GB RAM.

Not sure how to go about diagnosing my issue here. I haven't made any software changes, so I'm a little lost as to why this would happen.

Update: After trying everything suggested here, and all the googling I could manage, I ended up doing a full reinstall, and kept having issues. Eventually, I narrowed it down to the PCIE riser cable in my case (which I suppose I should have mentioned in the first place) which is supposed to be PCIE 4.0, but it seems to be what was causing my issues. I set my PCIE to 3.0 in the BIOS and everything is fine so far. I don't notice any performance reduction at all, so it probably wasn't saturating PCIE 4.0, but the riser isn't good enough for it I guess.

Like the Ender 3 V3 SE at $200 and the Ender 3 S1 Pro at $250.

They don't seem to have any interesting deals on consumables, sadly.

I just bought a nice OLED monitor and I'm trying to take advantage of it to play my games in HDR. If I run my games in gamescope, then HDR runs fine but my PS4 controller doesn't work. If I play without gamescope, the controller works, but HDR does not.

I've been trying to figure this out for a bit, and some people have been having some luck with the -e flag, which does nothing for me.I've tried Steam Input and overlay in all combinations of enabled and disabled and I've tried in big picture/gamepadui. Either way I have to choose between HDR and the controller. Has anyone gotten this to work?

I modeled an object in Blender intending to print it, but when I import it into PrusaSlicer or Cura, the dimensions don't quite match.

In Blender, the dimensions are 178mm x 142mm, but when I import it into Cura or PrusaSlicer, it imports it as 180 x 138mm. I can manually adjust the dimensions, but why is this happening? And will it mess up my fit in the end? Who do I trust here? I don't want to waste hours printing for nothing.

I've been listening to this a bunch lately. This is the cleanest-sounding concert recording I've ever found on youtube.

I want to put grilled paneer, arugula, and salmon roe on a cracker as an appetizer or early snack.

I feel like the salty/umami roe with the bitter/peppery freshness of arugula on the grilled paneer would taste nice. In terms of texture there would be the chewy/squeaky cheese, the crispy cracker, and the pop of the roe.

I'm thinking a cracker like a triscuit, but I feel like they're too thick for what I'm trying to put together.

Anyway, before I spend time and money to make a concoction that tastes like garbage, does anyone have any opinions or suggestions?

I have a model I want to print that has multiple layers of internal walls. They are useless and can't be seen in the finished product, like a hollow cylinder inside another hollow cylinder.

I can't seem to figure out how to prevent the slicer from including those useless parts. I've tried with Cura and PrusaSlicer. Is there another tool I should be using for this?