DIY

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I had a pretty sturdy wooden desk, top just polished and waxed, nice drawers too... but I wanted it to be a standing/sitting desk.

These "laptop hight adjusters" didnt do it for me, also I wonder how it would work as for me the difference is pretty big.

I searched for a matching frame and made a post in !kaufempfehlungen@feddit.org.

1. Cleanup

I removed the legs and drawes from the table, made space in the area

2. Frame

I got a 160kg one from Flexispot, which sounds overkill but this should hold me + the table + some stuff. You never stand on your desk to do stuff?

The package was heavy, poor delivery guy. Should have gotten him a snack to go.

Assembly wasn't hard, maybe 40min? The rest was way more

3. Issues

The screws connecting legs and top frame didn't really match, as the holes on the inside were shorter. I swapped the 4 with 4 shorter screws used to screw the "feet" onto the legs, which could only use the longer ones. No big deal but an oversight.

The frame was also too long to tightly match my tabletop, so I disassembled one part and shortened the metal tubes just the right amount so they fit exactly next to the boards on the outside of the drawers (you will see).

4. Tabletop adapter

This frame is made for flat tabletops, so I took one leg of the table, shortened it as much as possible and sawed it in half (Less useless weight at the tabletop is always good).

This is why the frame needed to be shortened to tightly match.

I attached the "adapters" to the outside of the "drawer holders", with 2 screws into them, and 2 short brackets to the tabletop.

Of course, for each hole I pre-drilled with a smaller drill to reduce force on the wood and avoid ruptures.

Looking at it, a few more brackets could be good. But in the other hand, I dont really apply horizontal force?

5. Assembly

I screwed the frame onto the adapter, which made a tight connection to the tabletop.

Now the 2 motors at the top of the frame needed their cables connected to a controller, which was connected to a charging brick.

The manual meant them to be inside the frame, screwed onto the tabletop, but this didnt work with the drawers. So instead I used the nice fiber-enhanced tape (used in packaging of the cables on the motors) and guided the cables to the back of the tabletop, screwed the controller on there.

The charging brick is held with a velcro strap for some reason, which was glued to the tabletop as well.

Now the little control interface (which looks nice and pretty high quality (but plastic of course) needs to be placed somewhere in front of the tabletop. It is connected to the controller via ethernet and a power cable. The power cables look similar to the ones on a PC.

I guided it alonside one side, tied the cable down with some tape, used a hook and a screw to hold it in place nicely, used the metal plastic-covered-wire thingy from packaging to attach the cable to the hook gently.

6. Result

Even though the cutting of the leg wasn't perfectly clean, it works and is very sturdy but not too heavy.

I turned it around, connected the power, and it worked!

ℹ️ Note

Always test the motors and stuff before sawing off random parts XD

The control is easy, I was able to set a sitting and a standing hight which can be switched with a button press now.

The controller seems to go into sleep mode when not used, meaning a low power draw. I could test this further though.

It is rock stable, which tells me it was a good idea to get the powerful variant (2 motors, 2 moving elements instead of 1).

The motors are reasonably silent, I already assembled everything, glued my plug strip onto the table (to leave room to the wall while preventing it from falling down). Noice!

I also need to find a solution for the corners (where the legs were). I may not care anough to put something there though.

Easter eggsOn the table you can see my pen holder made from a cool piece of log.

On the bottom there is also my bin with 3 segments for paper, plastic and litter, made with cardboard and tape.

7. Oversights

The screws didnt match the actual length, luckily I could just switch them without needing to manually shorten them.

There is a metal sheet meant to be a cover of the frame. But while the frame is adjustable, the sheet only has 2 holes and only fits in a very wide position, not even the minimum without me shortening it.

I may shorten it or may not, it is kinda useless.

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Zinc primer, acrylic base coat, and 2K clear coat.

What I learned:

  • Don’t cheap out on the paint and clear coat. The difference in quality between box-store products and real automotive ones can’t be overstated. They’re as much of higher quality than they're more expesive.

  • Buy more product than you think you’ll need. Just do it.

  • Surface prep, surface prep, surface prep. Paint and clear coat don’t hide imperfections at all. If you can feel it with your fingers, you’ll see it through the paint.

  • Avoid “smart 2K” products where you don’t need to mix in the hardener. I’ve tried them twice and both times got terrible results. It’s not that they don’t work, but they’re really finicky if you don’t know exactly what you’re doing.

  • Close the doors so bugs don’t fly in, and wet the floor/ground to keep dust from getting airborne.

  • Cover the entire vehicle before painting. Overspray dust goes everywhere and settles on every unprotected surface - ask me how I know.

  • Keep an eye on the spray nozzle and wipe it down occasionally. If it starts gunking up, it’ll spit droplets and ruin your finish.

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I have a horizontal gliding window that opens to my patio and I wanted to put a cat door in it so these little buggers can get out. I looked at buying one, but wow they're expensive.

My thoughts are to build a frame out of 1x1"s and have plexiglass in between it with one of those door flaps you can buy to install into it.

Would that work? Be sufficient enough? The window is never in the sun and not exposed to a lot of elements at all, so I don't think I need to go over the top.

And before anyone gets up in arms, the patio is netted in and the cats can't escape. They're not free roam, just allowed to be outside in their controlled area.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45JhacvmXV8

In this video we learn how to recycle cardboard into durable, waterproof projects that can be built nearly for free!

Wheat paste based glue, UV protection, and non biodegradable alternative demonstrated.

Still planning on using cardboard molded stuff in my present projects, so this recent upload is very apropos. As a former pro automotive painter, I could easily use several finishing techniques to make far better surfaces than this video, if I was not so physically limited. The cardboard clay is begging to become heavier body filler, and a newspaper pulp would likely make a finishing surface.

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It's fun :)

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Many people are at risk for exposure to the COVID-19 virus and cannot afford to get infected. These people can isolate themselves, but often, their professions or requirements for daily life will take them in contact with other people, and they need some form of protection. Masks definitely help, but can become uncomfortable to wear, especially over long periods of time. This guide will walk you through creating a Powered Air-Purifying Respirator, which will protect the wearer and those around them from airborne viruses and bacteria, while at the same time providing positive airflow to the wearer’s face. That airflow makes sure that the wearer has a supply of fresh, clean air that has gone through a filtration process, and, in our tests, is the equivalent of wearing an N95 mask.

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Most of my pants have gotten big on me, but it feels wrong to go out and buy new ones when these work fine, so I've been wearing them with a belt anyway. The problem is that when I sit down they bunch up around my crotch and it looks like I have a massive boner when I don't. Obviously, I don't want this to keep happening and am wondering if anybody knows of a way to fix this. I have relatively little expierence with sewing or tailoring but I do have access to a sewing machine. Any advice would be appreciated.

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I've had a couple of this style of plastic clip crack. Wrapping it in thread and then applying super glue seems to work pretty well. I also tried wrapping with fishing line, but it came undone pretty quickly. Just wanted to share the tip! Now if only I had a fix for when the prongs on the other half break off.

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I'm wondering what you all think about this project I have in mind and if there's a better suggestion.

So I just got a wood fired hot tub and it's just a soaking tub - literally a fiberglass shell in a wood cabinet with a built in stove and stove pipe that takes a few logs of wood to heat the water up. Due to the size of the stove, it can only ever get so hot, about 40C / 104F.

My partner loves the heat, but I fuckin love me some bubbles. I wish I could do hydrotherapy in this thing but that's too much.

So for bubbles, I'm thinking I take a blower like this using a standard outlet:

Then I get some sort of high heat silicone hose that is 2" OD to fit this specific blower. I'm not sure where to find this and have it be OK for a human to become soup in - any suggestions?

I'll connect that hose to the valve check and then from the valve check to... A wood slice? Something like this:

Why a wood slice? Well, I can just cut up wood in various ways to see what works best - large or small holes bored into it, different positions, number of holes... I would need to essentially create tunnels from where the hose attached to the wood.

I'm also thinking wood because I can shape, sand, and size it to fit the bottom of the fiberglass hot tub, and I don't think this will damage the fiberglass. My thinking is that fiberglass and wood have been used together on boats for decades and they withstand pounding waves so it should be alright?

Here's where the slice of wood would go:

I'm also not sure how to get the hose to attach to wood. Any ideas on that?

Also open to any other suggestions if there's a better overall solution someone has.

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Hi, I've been looking for a chance to get a huge fresnel lens from a rear projector TV for awhile and I finally found one junked (and rained on) on garbage day and managed to get the screen off before the truck took it.

The problem is that the screen seems to be different in composition from others I've seen online. There was one dark tinted, but otherwise clear plastic sheet, and an opaque one that might be a fresnel lens with a diffuser layer glued on. The TV was a Mitsubishi which are supposed to be a good source for fresnel lenses but the overall design and wide aspect ratio of the screen suggest it was a newer model. It definitely did have a projector inside (a single one with a sort of bubble dome on it).

I'm wondering if anyone knows more about these tvs, or has any suggestions for getting the two layers apart - the thin sheet seems to be both adhered very well and brittle - it only pries off in tiny chunks. I'm thinking about using a heat gun, I don't know if there's some other truck to this I should know.

Thanks very much for any advice!

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Can this be done without replacing the ceiling? The house was built in 1980, so I’m not surprised that there is warpage, but I’d like to hide it if possible.

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submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by IndieSpren@lemmy.blahaj.zone to c/diy@slrpnk.net
 
 

I thrifted a canvas painting and it has some black marks on the top edge. Does anyone know how I can get rid of them without the paint I use to cover it up turning out to be a completely different shade of white?

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Note: there are a couple of electric tools (i.e drill) that are used in a few of those examples but I also think there are plenty of great tips.

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cross-posted from: https://rss.ponder.cat/post/156474

It started when [Mitxela] was faced with about a hundred incorrectly-placed 0603 parts. Given that he already owned two TS101 soldering irons, a 3D printer, and knows how to use FreeCAD (he had just finished designing a custom TS101 holder) it didn’t take long to create cost-effective DIY soldering tweezers.

Two screws allow adjusting the irons to ensure the tips line up perfectly.

The result works great! The TS101 irons are a friction-fit and the hinge (designed using the that-looks-about-right method) worked out just fine on the first try. Considering two TS101 irons are still cheaper than any soldering tweezer he could find, and one can simply undock the TS101s as needed, we call this a solid win.

One feature we really like is being able to precisely adjust the depth of each iron relative to each other, so that the tips can be made to line up perfectly. A small screw and nut at the bottom end of each holder takes care of that. It’s a small but very thoughtful design feature.

Want to give it a try? The FreeCAD design file (and .stl model) is available from [Mitxela]’s project page. Just head to the bottom to find the links.

We’ve seen DIY soldering tweezers using USB soldering irons from eBay but the TS101 has a form factor that seems like a particularly good fit.


From Blog – Hackaday via this RSS feed

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I am building some simple "pallets" out of 4x4 lumber to ship some machines.

The plan is to screw the feet of the machines to the top of 8 foot long 4x4s, and then to screw shorter 4x4s, probably about 4 feet, to the top of them as crossbars to move the machines with pallet jacks. Basically, I'd have a rectangle 8 feet long by 4 feet wide with the weight being supported from above by the crossbars. I'm not sure how much the machines weigh, but as a guesstimate, I'd put them at about 600 lbs each.

My question is what type and length of screws should I be using for this? I may double up on the cross bars if it doesn't feel strong enough to safely carry the weight. Given I'm using 4x4s, I'll have about 7" of wood to work with, I imagine 6 inches would be a minimum length, but I don't know if I need some thicker screws, in which case I might need to drill some pilot holes.

Thanks for the help

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hi all! I am tetraplegic and drive my wheelchair with my chin. the medical grade facemasks I've tried over the last few years make it impossible to do this while wearing them properly. I have 2 cloth masks that can be worn while driving, but I know they don't offer much protection, so I'm here to ask

  1. if detachable air filters even exist?
  2. whether they can be installed in a cloth mask
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Hello Lemmy,

Youve been so helpful over the last few months. Maybe someone can help me with this.

I have this butchers block countertop with an undermount sink. I had it installed 18 months ago. I sealed it, and then this part was being warped and forced apart. I put in wood block, I resealed it. But as you can see, its coming apart again.

I followed all the advice of the handy men I know, including the one that installed it. The only thing I can think of is, aside from reblocking and sealing it, maybe a line of silicon around where the faucet comes up, and around the lip where the sink is flush with hole its mounted in, both things they assured me wouldn't be necessary. Should I be concerned about a leak on the underside? Am I just hosed?

(More pics of the whole set up on request)

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Hey all!

I'm at the process of building an enclosure for my 3D printer. Its purpose is to keep the heat inside, while dampening the sound from the printer.

I already have the base to absorb any vibrations, but I need side panels too for said heat and noise insulation.

For that purpose, there are only two options, but both acoustic panels or insulation foam are either not flame retardant, expensive or both.

I thought about that problem a while, and came to the idea, that I could go the DIY route and make either mycelium based plates, or plant fiber (like hemp) turned into concrete, aka. hempcrete.

Luckily, I'm both a mushroom and weed enthusiast with quite a lot of solarpunk spirit, and have everything I need for both. But I just don't know where to start.

Here's how I would do it:

Mushroom bricks

  • I'd probably take Reishi as culture, because from my experience, it was the most robust mycelium. Oysters weren't as firm, but grew way faster and with less contamination.
  • Make grain spawn as starter culture
  • Mix it with plant materials, like hemp fiber, straw, or saw dust
  • Fill egg cartons or something similar (uneven surface for better sound crushing properties) with the inocculated substrate
  • And let them incubate for two weeks
  • When finished, take out of the mould and put it into the oven for drying
  • Finished

Hempcrete

  • I would probably start with animal litter substrate, basically small chopped hemp fibers
  • Mix it with calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime)
  • Add some cement
  • Pour into mould
  • Cure for a week
  • Finish?

How feasible is all of that? While I'm all into that for research purposes, I also want something that just works.

How experimental is it? Are there already any well documented procedures for both?

How's the long term stability, e.g. degradation, mold risk, smell, dimensional stability, etc.? Especially regarding the mushrooms, how can I prevent them from turning either moldy or brown when drying?

What alternative materials are also well suited for that purpose?

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cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/17687690

where could someone find a pair of sturdy, comfortable goggles that an optometrist can put a prescription into?

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