3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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@Maerman Typically “brand name” filament is going to be more consistent over time and is more likely to have reasonably good filament profiles in the slicer.
Will the cheap stuff also work with some effort, usually. But you might find that a new batch of filament is a noticeably different color. You might find that it absorbs moisture more quickly or is strangely brittle. Or they somehow got a bunch of cardboard dust onto the spools.
IMO if you’re not truly using a ton of filament or trying to make money from this, it’s worth buying the more expensive stuff.
Though I can imagine if you're trying to make money, the consistency might be worth the additional cost, rather team having to put time and material into failed batches.
Personally I buy the cheapest PLA and hate myself everytime I have to disassemble the AMS to get out stuck pieces of broken filament (might not be related to the filament itself, I'm not asking for advise).