this post was submitted on 06 Nov 2025
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gardening
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i was out of commission yesterday, but to answer your question... like its possible for substrate to get so dry it wont allow water to infiltrate / becomes hydrophobic but i doubt thats the problem here with what you've described.
generally, irrigation schedules call for a single significant watering event--where the container is saturated--in the early morning. and thats it for the day.
a container can be recognized as saturated when the volume of water being added displaces the same amount of water already in the container, leading it it immediately draining out if the bottom.
the substrate itself should be pretty loose, not packed tight. like you iust dumped enough in to the line. you want lots of pores everywhere for holding water droplets and air. ideal pore space volume is 50%: 25% for air, 25% for water. so half of a substrate should be empty space. if its less than that, its compacted and going to cause problems for plant production.
when you water in the morning it's saturated at 50% substrate, ~50% water. over the next hours more and more water is lost to evaporation, slow drainage from gravity, and some moving up through the plant's water column, which allows that pore space to have air pockets, which gradually approaches that 50:50 ratio. thats when the plant is most efficiently photosynthesizing.
this is a simplified, idealized description of whats happening.
anyway, the quick rule people use when evaluating substrate for water content is they stick their finger in it the substrate and if it feels "cool" compared to the ambient air temp, its fine and doesn't need watering. its definitely a vibe thing that comes with experience.
if theres a commercial greenhouse nearby, even retail (but not big box like home depot), you might consider popping in and seeing if you can ask a few home grower questions about watering. its a common issue and a lot of plant nerds are happy to demonstrate some basic concepts.