Dull Men's Club
An unofficial chapter of the popular Dull Men's Club.
1. Relevant commentary on your own dull life. Posts should be about your own dull, lived experience. This is our most important rule. Direct questions, random thoughts, comment baiting, advice seeking, many uses of "discuss" rarely comply with this rule.
2. Original, Fresh, Meaningful Content.
3. Avoid repetitive topics.
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Use a search engine, a tradesperson, Reddit, friends, a specialist Facebook group, apps, Wikipedia, an AI chat, a reverse image search etc. to answer simple questions or identify objects. Also see rule 1, “comment baiting”.
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7. Proofread before posting. Use good grammar and punctuation. Avoid useless phrases. Some examples: - starting a post with "So" - starting a post with pointless phrases, like "I hope this is allowed" or “this is my first post” Only share good quality, cropped images. Do not share screenshots of images; share the original image.
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Just as a clarifying point(I’m sure some HVAC person can correct me). The fan spins up to make a draft, the pressure sensor is detecting negative pressure(vacuum) and that successful check allows the gas valve to open prior to the igniter/flame sensor. The draft helps pull the gas into the combustion chamber and not just leak it out into the basement or wherever(especially if it fails to ignite). Furnaces kicking on are a series of do an action, verify that action happened, repeat until it gets through its todo list. High efficiency furnaces work similarly but also different…
Knowing the general boot up can help figure out what isn’t working. Igniter never goes off?…pressure sensor is right before it. Furnace ignites but shuts off a few seconds later…Flame sensor didn’t report success.
I keep a pressure sensor, igniter, and flame sensor sitting next to my furnace. It’s like ~$50 for the OEM parts and I can generally fix my furnace in 5-10 minutes.