JordanZ

joined 2 years ago
[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

A compiler is at least consistent if all things remain constant. Ask AI the same thing a few times and you’ll get different answers. Ask tomorrow?…different.

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 39 points 4 days ago (7 children)

I have no sympathy for you if your $450 toaster isn’t working.

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 6 points 5 days ago

I had somewhat the opposite experience. I was moving and had something I didn’t want to forget so I stuck it somewhere. I just found it a few weeks ago stuffed under the passenger seat of my car. I moved 9 years ago…

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 1 points 5 days ago

A lot of my GoPros already have an overheating problem and battery issues(ballooning). Having them in direct sunlight on the dash or leaving them in the car on a summer day would make that worse. While the picture quality is nice I think they’d make terrible dash cams for day to day constant use.

Most(not all) dedicated dash cams use capacitors and not batteries due to the extreme cold/heat they’re subjected to. The capacitor should provide enough power to gracefully shutdown if you have the cam wired to an auxiliary power wire(turns off with ignition).

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 10 points 5 days ago

They doubled down hard on editing via the phone app with cloud storage via subscription. I have zero desire to edit video on my phone. Their desktop apps are frankly horrendous. They have cameras that capture footage at higher than 4K but their phone app only allowed export at 4K at least on an iPhone. This seemed to be a limit on the h265 libraries on the iPhone so it might be different on Android.

If you wanted to export their 5.6K 360 footage on a desktop from a GoPro Max you couldn’t do that in any sane way. You had to export it in their cine* whatever format and an hour of footage was over 400GB. This also used your graphics card to accelerate it. You could export the h265 files in 4K if memory serves which was obviously smaller and faster but you dropped the resolution as a trade off.

YouTube in a desktop browser supports 360 footage in 5K+ resolutions. I believe the mobile app is still 4K only.

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 3 points 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago)

If you already had an iPhone then the Neo makes a lot of sense. I love responding to text messages with a full keyboard. You can share browser tabs between the two, copy/paste across devices among other things(Apple’s handoff feature). You can also install and run phone/tablet apps directly on it or phone mirror other apps that don’t allow it(up to developer).

The Neo is a great laptop that I keep on the arm of the couch in my living room. Charge it about once a week or so and use it for my normal browsing instead of my phone. It starts instantly when you crack the lid. Faster even than a MacBook Pro I had for work several years ago(Intel based).

It plays simple games like Balatro or Mini Motorways great. It can play more demanding titles but the battery life does start to suffer.

For the price range the screen, size, and build are top tier. The only thing I kind of miss is an illuminated keyboard but that’s a minor nitpick.

I had another use case for a laptop which was kind of niche. I every so often need to make updates/changes to vehicle software and a laptop is ideal. The issue is that software is windows only. Yes, it runs in wine but it’s kind of a pain. The Neo supports UTM which is a virtual machine software specifically built for Apple Silicon and it runs windows great. So installing that app, windows, and syncing it up to my vehicle was normal fair. I didn’t want to have a cheap windows laptop around for only that purpose that I wouldn’t use otherwise. I found that people in the forum for that vehicle software had the same thought about the Neo that I did. So I knew it worked for this purpose before purchasing.

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 16 points 1 week ago (1 children)

This is Benn Jordan aka ‘The Flashbulb’…he is doing exactly that because he got fed up with AI companies training off his albums.

https://youtu.be/xMYm2d9bmEA

 

I have a GE Cafe dishwasher(cdt865ssj2ss). I ran a cycle in it a week or so ago and it was doing its thing for a good half hour or so. I went to the store and came back to a completely dead dishwasher. No life at all. Checked power / breaker. Turned it off for a few minutes. Nothing. The dishwasher was hot like it had started the dry cycle but still had water in the bottom of the tub when I got home.

I’m pretty handy and have a multimeter so did some searching around and figured this wouldn’t be so bad.

Started by manually removing the water from the tub. Probably not necessary but didn’t take long as it’s only like an inch or two of water. Didn’t want it spilling if I needed to pull the machine out.

I pull the machine apart at the bottom and get to the main board. Check the UI boards connector port for ~13.5v on pins 2 and 5(it’s literally printed on the circuit board). I’m getting 14.05v. So likely not this board. I order the UI board(top of door with controls).

UI board comes in. I test the power from the main board at the connector of the UI board. Still 14.05v. So not a bad wire harness. Figured I’d check since the door was apart now. I install UI board and turn power back on. I have life again. Things are looking up. I fully put the thing back together and try to run a test load. Machine fills with water like normal and then just cuts out entirely again. No life at all.

Now when I check the UI boards power connector(on the main board) with the multimeter I get nothing. So perhaps that board just up and died and may or may not have also taken out the UI board again. The main board does have 120v.

I’m pretty sure something else is obviously wrong with another component and it’s taking out the board(s). After it fills with water I’d imagine it’s the circulation motor that runs? So for now the machine sits with water in the tub again and dead electrics.

Just looking for general advice of things to look for. If I should just cut my loses and get a new machine entirely. I’d hate to replace both boards and have it fry them again. It’s about $300 for both.

The dishwasher is approximately 8 years old and wasn’t exactly cheap(~$1600). It’s hooked up to soft water and otherwise looks and ran great before whatever electric issues it’s started to develop. The underside of the machine looks basically new. No discolored plastics, the pipes/hoses aren’t cracked or even look worn at all. The rubber bits are still a nice semi-shiny black. Not a dull powdery black color of old rubber. No signs of leaks. It actually has a tray under it with a leak sensor as part of the dishwasher.

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