JordanZ

joined 2 years ago
[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 1 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago)

The emulators software should handle that(gets the player 2-4 inputs from over the network). I play Tetris Attack with my sister sometimes ~2000 miles apart which is an old Super Nintendo game. No such thing as network play on that console.

The network features on the emulator should work locally or remotely. You just have some extra steps like I mentioned in my first comment to make it work remotely. If you have a spare device to run two emulators locally I’d start with getting it working in your own house before trying to walk a buddy through it remotely.

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 3 points 3 days ago (2 children)

It’s not the most secure but I just set up a port forward in my router to the device with the emulator on both sides of the connection. When you’re done playing make sure to remove/disable the port forward. You connect to the public IP and port of the other person. Shouldn’t be any different than making local lan play work at that point. Your latency is pretty much just whatever the transfer time is. This does require both of you to know how to set that up in your router and basic networking knowledge.

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 1 points 5 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago) (1 children)

Just trying to schedule a run of the mill physical exam. That thing you’re supposed to do every year. Those wait times are like 2-3 months out. I have great insurance it’s just the doctor offices are being run like businesses in the US now so they’re perpetually short staffed and over booked. Allowing investment firms to own hospitals and the such was such a mistake. These things should not be seen as investment opportunities.

Edit: There’s actually a tracker for hospitals owned by private equity firms.

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 15 points 5 days ago (1 children)

I don’t necessarily disagree with automation. I think the article is being disingenuous with their reasons for it.

To start off, the posts headline is inaccurate. It’s not against any law to have automated transport systems. The US has had automated train systems for 50+ years. They were designed that way from the start though. The article is complaining about systems that were not designed with automation in mind. They are not being retrofitted because of this particular regulation that was designed to protect existing workers.

From the posted article:

Yet no legacy US heavy rail system has been retrofitted for full automation. Many legacy US systems already use automatic train control (ATC) technology that can operate trains without a driver — San Francisco’s BART trains have run under automatic control since the system opened in 1972, and WMATA’s trains in the DC-Maryland-Virginia region are similarly automated. But no legacy system has removed onboard operators and transitioned to unattended operation.

Since they mention BART, their own website says removing train operators does basically nothing to solve their financial issues. It just moves costs around and ignores the insane cost to retrofit it in the first place that would likely take decades to recoup.

Train Operator salaries and benefits (including overtime) makes up 7.8% of the FY27 Preliminary Operating Budget $1.05B.  That is $81-$83M ($71.5M in wages and benefits and the overtime budget is about $11M). The structural deficit is up to $400M per year. If regulations allowed BART to remove Train Operators, there would be costs associated with no longer having train operators on board such as increased operation control center staffing and more at the ready staff presence for incident response etc. – and that’s not even considering the significant upfront capital costs.

From budget data I could find, the BART police department was a larger slice of the budget than the train operators.

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 29 points 6 days ago (1 children)

On Lemmy…it happens more in reverse.

Example:

That’s in the Windows11 community.

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 4 points 6 days ago

They’re working on changing that whole public thing…

Public private partnerships (P3s) are contractual agreements between a public agency and a private entity that allow for greater private participation in the delivery of projects. In transportation projects, this participation typically involves the private sector taking on additional project risks such as design, construction, finance, long-term operation, and traffic revenue.

The transit authority in my state is already in one of these agreements.

No private sector entity will agree to something like that with a union in place. Corporate America despises unions.

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 47 points 6 days ago (21 children)

This just sounds like union busting under the guise of automation.

Transit automation can drastically reduce operating costs and improve service, but the open-ended 13(c) certification process provides labor with an effective veto on such changes.

Section 13(c) specifies several categories of required protection: preservation of rights, privileges, and benefits under existing collective bargaining agreements;

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 3 points 1 week ago (2 children)

I wouldn’t buy their kitchen stuff(especially refrigerators) but I have a washer/dryer from them that are 17 years old now. Absolutely zero issues with them. Like anything, do your research on what you buy. Mine aren’t anything special, mid-range units at best.

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 20 points 1 week ago (1 children)

The ‘I can’t be bothered’…

[–] JordanZ@lemmy.world 8 points 1 week ago (4 children)
 

I have a GE Cafe dishwasher(cdt865ssj2ss). I ran a cycle in it a week or so ago and it was doing its thing for a good half hour or so. I went to the store and came back to a completely dead dishwasher. No life at all. Checked power / breaker. Turned it off for a few minutes. Nothing. The dishwasher was hot like it had started the dry cycle but still had water in the bottom of the tub when I got home.

I’m pretty handy and have a multimeter so did some searching around and figured this wouldn’t be so bad.

Started by manually removing the water from the tub. Probably not necessary but didn’t take long as it’s only like an inch or two of water. Didn’t want it spilling if I needed to pull the machine out.

I pull the machine apart at the bottom and get to the main board. Check the UI boards connector port for ~13.5v on pins 2 and 5(it’s literally printed on the circuit board). I’m getting 14.05v. So likely not this board. I order the UI board(top of door with controls).

UI board comes in. I test the power from the main board at the connector of the UI board. Still 14.05v. So not a bad wire harness. Figured I’d check since the door was apart now. I install UI board and turn power back on. I have life again. Things are looking up. I fully put the thing back together and try to run a test load. Machine fills with water like normal and then just cuts out entirely again. No life at all.

Now when I check the UI boards power connector(on the main board) with the multimeter I get nothing. So perhaps that board just up and died and may or may not have also taken out the UI board again. The main board does have 120v.

I’m pretty sure something else is obviously wrong with another component and it’s taking out the board(s). After it fills with water I’d imagine it’s the circulation motor that runs? So for now the machine sits with water in the tub again and dead electrics.

Just looking for general advice of things to look for. If I should just cut my loses and get a new machine entirely. I’d hate to replace both boards and have it fry them again. It’s about $300 for both.

The dishwasher is approximately 8 years old and wasn’t exactly cheap(~$1600). It’s hooked up to soft water and otherwise looks and ran great before whatever electric issues it’s started to develop. The underside of the machine looks basically new. No discolored plastics, the pipes/hoses aren’t cracked or even look worn at all. The rubber bits are still a nice semi-shiny black. Not a dull powdery black color of old rubber. No signs of leaks. It actually has a tray under it with a leak sensor as part of the dishwasher.

view more: next ›