I recently replaced power connectors on two DSi XLs. Both couldn’t charge, and one worked on the battery while the other didn’t. I replaced the connectors and a dead charging circuit fuse on one of them (only one dead fuse).

Now both are dead, and one only has an orange flashing light like the power fuse is burnt when plugged in, while the other is just … no life.

New Power connectors all beep out just fine for continuity. All fuses beep out just fine. All ribbon cables are seated.

What the hell did I do or fail to do? Any guesses? My soldering was accurate, no stray touches, etc. Just wondering if there’s a common other issue that I might have overlooked beyond power connector & fuse replacement.

I have a DSi that is in very good condition but for the right shoulder button. It does work but I have to press very hard to get it to register. The "lift up the button and blow into it" does actually improve the function of the button for a bit (I use canned air, not moist mouth) but it doesn't take long at all to NOT work either. Does anyone have a REAL solution that actually works short of disassembly and replacement of the button?

As mentioned, fuse was blown on battery board. There was also battery corrosion. Reflowed solder on corroded solder joints, used fiberglass scratch pen to expose traces next to the absent fuse solder pads, and used a wire fragment/solder blob to bridge the gap for testing. It worked. Now need fuses. Overscratch area was covered with clear nail varnish (not visible but it’s there). Someday I’ll get myself some proper solder resist and a UV light.

Three items of note:

(1) the power connector (red/black wire connecting battery board to main board) disconnects by LIFTING the connector out of the socket, not by pulling horizontally.

(2) the D-pad left button didn’t work well. I blasted the rubber pad and external d-pad button with contact cleaner (even though there is no electrical connection involved with these items). There was hardly any dirt, so I didn’t think it would work. Holy shit was I wrong.

(3) the blue power LEDs don’t light. No idea if my board work broke the LEDs or if it happened when the fuse blew.

There was a deleted post on here where someone was getting no response from the Wii but it was outputting a black screen with a white dot in the upper right. My guess was that it is a dead/loose bluetooth module, but I took two months to notice the post and only realized it was deleted after I was unable to comment (mods can see deleted posts). Regardless, I wanted to bring this Wii troubleshooting flowchart to people's attention.

Sorry about the stock photo. Anyone ever have luck rehabbing one of these boards? Recently got my hands on a DSi XL missing the battery and battery cover. Yellow flashing light of death even with replacement battery. On disassembly, there was battery corrosion. The fuse on the battery board was not only blown, it was totally absent and the pads are corroded away. I could probably rework the fuse pads but it’s very tiny work. Ribbon connector also corroded but might be salvageable. I know there are replacement boards still readily available.

Anyone know where you can get replacement battery covers, besides buying either a parts unit (for stupidly high prices, what do these hawkers think a repair unit is worth?!?) or a full replacement shell for $30? Anyone 3D printing them yet?

Do you wonder "what is the appropriate goop to use in this repair?" Let's talk about it. First things first:

• petroleum based products risk degrading plastic and should not be used

• WD-40 is a petroleum based solvent and is not a good lubricant in any situation

• Plastic on plastic interfaces (e.g., microswitches in a joystick) can be lubricated with white lithium grease spray

• Rosin-containing (amber colored) "no-clean" flux liquid is good for solder rework but HOLY FUCK it is hard to clean up even with IPA

• Hot glue is NEVER THE RIGHT CHOICE. Use kapton tape to hold wires and for the love of god if you are doing a mod that adds a port through the case, use a compatible 2 part epoxy or a 3d printed bracket (or hell, a spacer made of paper) to friction fit it, because that glue is going to give way, it's just a matter of when.

Your turn - share your hard earned lessons regarding the right and wrong goops to use in different repair situations.

One of my favorite mods to do is restoring RGB and S-Video capabilities to the NTSC SNES Jr. (which is a cost-reduced version of the "one-chip" SNES) using voultar's mod.

What I want to know is this: why can I use a cheap-ass friction-welded Aliexpress SNES multiout RGB NTSC SCART cable (EXAMPLE ONLY, I DID NOT BUY FROM THIS PERSON) to connect my voultar mod SNES Jr. to the OSSC, and I have a PERFECT PICTURE on my HDTV, when, alternatively, I use the console5 mod with the same cable and OSSC and I have sync issues (sometimes a distorted signal, sometimes "No compatible signal" black screen from my HDTV)?

Voultar uses a better video amp than most of his competitors, mainly because with the THS7374 you can disable the LPF, while most competitors use the THS7314/7316 video amp with the LPF permanently enabled. But this should not impact sync, should it?

Someone explain why I can use stupidly cheap cables on voultars SNES RGB mod but not other's mods.

How long does it take for a properly working Nintendo DSi softmodded with Twilightmenu++/nds-bootstrap to load a game from the SD card? It seems to take nearly a minute to load a game for me. Everything works perfectly, it just seems to take a stupidly long time to get through the nds-bootstrap process (the first load of a game takes the longest, but subsequent loads of that game are only slightly faster).

Meanwhile I have a Nintendo DSlite with a flashcart that is wicked fast to start a game, but the power consumption of the thing in standby mode is out of control to the point that standby mode is essentially unuseable.

Is the trade-off really between stupidly long game loading times if using nds-bootstrap to start a game on the DSi but great power consumption, and wicked fast game loading but terrible battery life on a DSlite with a flashcart? Or is something wrong with my Twilightmenu++/NDS-bootstrap install?

!consolerepair@lemmy.world

There was no coordinated effort to relocate r/consolerepair to a lemmy community, so we're starting from scratch. The community is open to console repair questions for all generation consoles, as well as functional mods (e.g., ODE/RGB/HDMI mods). Come on over!

I have an NES front-loader where I fried something in the "silver box" that handles power and A/V (this NES part has no consistent name in the repair/modding community, that I can tell, so I'm calling it the front loader's "silver box").

I was using poor technique with my multimeter trying to test the voltage regulator and I think I shunted 12v to ground. I have an entirely socketed NES for chip testing and all of the IC's work fine. The issue seems entirely limited to the silver box.

Rather than try and rebuild the silver box, I was thinking of seeing what "no-cut" options are out there. TheRealPhoenix used to sell Borti's no-cut NES-IO but COVID part shortages made the PIC it relies on hard to get, and he lost interest in returning it to production as certain features it had are now unnecessary (e.g., game controller activated in-game reset and palette mod changing is now available with v4 of the Tim Worthington NESRGB mod).

Does anyone know where I can order a "silver box replacement kit" that has the following features: (1) interfaces with v4 of NESRGB, and (2) uses a mini-DIN for RGB output and also has s-video output?

I know I could locate an appropriate PCB that comes with a BOM (parts list) where I could source parts separately, but I'd rather buy a kit.

A lot of the bare PCB's that are posted online seem to require trimming a corner of the NES PCB or the internal case to make it fit, or rely on cutting a hole in the brittle NES case to install a SNES multi-out)

Givent the above info, can anyone recommend either:

• a no-cut kit that is available for purchase, or, if none exists,
• a straightforward PCB that requires no trimming of the hardware or the case with a BOM/parts listing that doesn't require unobtainium

I see folks crossposting but I don't see how to do it in my lemmy interface (lemmy.world) - I can choose a single community to post to, not multiple.

Is there a way to not have to select "english" every time I post or comment? I thought my language selection at account creation would take care of it.

I see people cross-posting but I don't know how they are doing it. All I see for posting options on the lemmy interface is a single community I can select.