shelf

joined 6 months ago
[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 38 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

They open their mouth like that when they smell something particularly ripe.

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 3 months ago (1 children)

Is this manga panel from Ajin

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 3 months ago

I played the network test with my friend the entire weekend it was loads of fun I loved being able to more drastically change builds.

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 11 points 3 months ago (1 children)

I love freecad but even the latest release has some occasional crashes. For instance if you try to use PartDesign_Chamfer or PartDesign_Fillet and then go back and edit any of the sketches those were applied to things start to get wacky.

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 4 months ago (1 children)

the only screw that touches my hand is the top left one against my pinky and it doesn't bother me.

At first I got a pico and soldered it cause its cheaper then I realized i didn't want to solder on the usb port to get passthrough working so i just got a gp2040ce pcb that comes fully assembled with screw terminals/headers and a usb port already there for passthrough authentication.

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 4 months ago

I'll probably be following this suggestion I'd love to use a higher tension grommet in my lever but the controller would have to be a lot heavier for it not to be problematic.

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 4 points 4 months ago (4 children)

yeah I didn't know /c/arcadesticks@lemmy.world existed until somebody cross posted this post there. I want to remake the wrist rest out of wood eventually to add more weight. Your hitbox looks pretty sick!

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 4 months ago

I considered it but i test drove the setup without it and wasnt bothered by them poking out so I decided against it. plus i like the brutal look

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 4 points 4 months ago

for sure! I think the captive nut + oversized hole solution is a lot more forgiving and accessible you can buy all the stuff you need from any local store and it doesn't have to fit PERFECTLY cause everything just pulls itself into the right spot based on the lip of the 3d printed parts.

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 4 months ago (2 children)

I put the holes in the side to save filament but ended up making a snap in panel for the start/select/home buttons so that was a happy accident. also I have since replaced the arcade stick bolts with button top hex head bolts so they fit better and look nicer and don't feel like hell when you drag your hand across them.

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submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

3d printed custom arcade stick i made to use at the local bi weekly guilty gear strive and street fighter 6 brackets.

For the last 10 or 12 years I've been using a Madcatz Fightstick pro xbox 360 arcade stick but I got tired of using adapters to play on ps4/ps5 because they were causing issues with missed inputs and added latency so I built this controller with an open source board that supports usb passthrough authentication so the console gets inputs directly from the controller.

It uses a 16x6 inch aluminum plate for the top and bottom panels and a gp-2040ce for the pcb(with a magicboots adapter for ps5 support), the lever is a crown newhelpme lever and the buttons are 6 Seimitsu snap in buttons and 2 Punkworkshop buttons.

I ran into a skill issue using heat set inserts so i just made everything either screw into plastic or use captive nuts for the more secure bits.

list of tools and stuff used.

  • software: Freecad and orca slicer
  • 3d printer: Elegoo Neptune 4 pro(this thing sucks)
  • 30mm hole cut saw drill bit.
  • random assortment of drill bits for the mounting holes.
  • 1x m8 threaded rod to connect the wrist rest halves
  • 4x m8 bolts
  • 8x m6 bolts
  • 4x m4 bolts for the lever mount
  • 2x 16x6x1/8 inch aluminum plates