3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
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On mine, I simply increased Z-Offset in the slicer by a fraction of a millimetre.
Can I assume from your response that you have a mk4 or mk4s with this issue then?
Yes
🙏🏻
I can get adequate results with Zoffset or LiveZ +0.04 with smooth sheet and PLA.
PETG is still variable results for same settings, z+0.01 is ok some of the time, others it is still terrible, and still sees filament build up, so if printing real things, it eventually blobs, and has a (bedArea - printArea) chance of then causing a collision.
+0.02 means no bed adhesion, and I can't actually get a finished first layer.
I've never printed with PETG, so I can't help you there, but I heard it's a pretty difficult material to get right.
Nah.. It's easy.. My previous mk3s+ had hundreds of awwsome PETG hours.
@snrkl @einkorn I only print PETG and when dialed in it works great. But corner to corner like the photo never works out on my mk3s, the bed is warped and warps even more when heated