3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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I tried a Volcano, and because of the long melt zone, I wasn't able to completely tune out the oozing/stringing (on my Bowden at least). I dunno if the newer high flow hotends still have this problem or not (or if they're fine on direct drive); something to consider.
I actually have a Orbiter 2, and think I'm going to try the Volcano again. I still need to print a new toolhead for it.
I have a Dragon SF on my Voron which seems to work well (in a Stealthburner/Clockwork 2). I like that I don't need to use 2 wrenches to change nozzles (unlike a V6) and that it securely attaches to the toolhead with screws (in the Stealthburner).