I haven't bought one in a year or two, but I don't think there's an equivalent.

I recommend something like a Bambu for people who want "a printer to supplement their hobby, not be their hobby."

Resin printing is incredibly fucking cool, don't get me wrong, but it's also like a finicky thing, between leveling (if you have an older Saturn like I do), resin temperature, vat film replacement, model cleaning, safe ventilation, and on and on.

If you wanna "set it and forget it" resin is not gonna be that. Probably ever, but definitely in its current form. You're just gonna have to do a lot more post processing than you will with fdm.

All that said, if you're fine with it basically being a hobby that can supplement your other hobbies go for it. I didn't do fdm till after I did resin, and the detail and print quality you'll get out of a even an older tuned resin system is in a different universe than what you'll get out of any modern fdm system. But you're gonna pay for it in extra effort and various pita that do not exist with fdm.

(I can rec a Saturn for sure, I have a 2 and I love that thing.)

I won't claim it's the equivalent of the Bambu Labs FDM printer, because I've never done FDM printing.

On top of that, I'm only familiar with the one resin printer I've used.

Anyway, it's an Anycubic Photon Mono X 4k. I've had really good luck with it, and I've printed over 200 miniatures and other things. I've had some failed prints but they were almost always my fault for doing something dumb, and there haven't been that many overall. I'm guessing easily less than 5%.

I wouldn't recommend the exact same model as mine, because they have newer ones (like an 8k version of mine and some others).

But I would definitely recommend the Anycubic Photon line as worth looking into. Read some reviews & watch some videos.

Good luck!

All of them except the Prusa. They are all proprietary schemes to get you to subscribe to software. There are hacked sub par tool chains to attempt to use them freely, but no one really does it in practice enough that you see them using the thing regularly.

All high resolution displays are proprietary and completely undocumented publicly. Every display is different in how to communicate with it and they change constantly where reverse engineering one will do nothing of value. The next batch of displays manufactured will change in some fundamental way that means the previous reverse engineering efforts must be redone from scratch. Reverse engineering displays and their protocol is a PITA and usually ruins a display or few. You need complex jigs to handle them outside of their final packaged assembly or things break extremely easily. I've messed with some smaller simple graphics and LCD displays and reverse engineering, and it is not fun. So you're unlikely to ever see one of the proprietary resin printers reverse engineered for use with open source software. So full ownership is not an option. It is basically just like bambu but worse. As far as I'm concerned, the Prusa is the only resin printer for sale because I am not for sale/exploitive manipulation, or renting stuff for a one time payment of an equivalent cost of ownership. The Form Labs stuff is probably the prosumer level go-to.

What you're asking for is going to be way overpriced. Heygears is likely the pro-sumer brand you're looking for.

Resin printing is a breeze compared to FDM.

It only has one motorised axis that needs configuring, afterwards it just works. There are so many less variables that you can get a decent result with even the cheapest of printers without much fiddling.

So I'd focus more on the features and the size of the buildplate than on reliability.

Personally, I'd recommend any Elegoo printer.

As you already have a Mars 3, upgrading to a Saturn 4 is a good step, though I can't vouch for its auto plate leveling. As others mentioned, the thing with resin is that it's toxic, smelly and the fumes from curing can also be problematic. Personally, I'd recommend getting water-based resins, since cleaning them is way, way easier and safer than having to deal with isopropyl alcohol, acetone or anything else. Dunk on a bucket of water, then on another and you're done, just dry and cure.

For cleaning the buckets, wait for the stuff to sink to the bottom (I prefer leaving at least 1 day), cure and throw away. Or leave it to evaporate naturally on small plastic cups.