this post was submitted on 28 Jan 2026
4 points (75.0% liked)

3DPrinting

21751 readers
4 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io

There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
 

I got one last week and it's good, real good. But like too good? So I'll never have to worry about bed adhesion, which is not a problem very often but is the most common problem on the stock textured PEI plate that the printer comes with. But with the cool plate I definitely don't have to worry about it. Conversely, I have to worry about getting my prints off the bed without damaging them.

I think what I'm learning is that some prints are more appropriate for one plate and others are better for the other.

top 9 comments
sorted by: hot top controversial new old
[–] BuboScandiacus@mander.xyz 3 points 4 weeks ago

Supertack ? It is not that good ngl-

Or mine is defective

To remove the prints easily heat up the plate

[–] roofuskit@lemmy.world 2 points 4 weeks ago (1 children)

Yes, look up the literature on the plates. Certain materials as are best on certain plates. It would be best to know what the coating is but I'm guessing Bambu doesn't share that information. But I'm sure they give you a list of suggested materials for each along with temperatures.

[–] akilou@sh.itjust.works 1 points 4 weeks ago (1 children)

I'm only printing in PLA. The material isn't changing, the shape of the thing I'm printing is changing

[–] KryptonNerd@slrpnk.net 2 points 4 weeks ago

Generally I put tall models on a high adhesion plate and short models on lower adhesion plates. It's a good enough rule of thumb

[–] stealth_cookies@lemmy.ca 2 points 4 weeks ago (2 children)

Cool plate supertack I assume you mean given there is an older cool plate available too.

Yeah having the razor blade scraper is a requirement for that build plate to get some types of prints off. I live the plate since I pretty much just don't have to wash it or worry too much about accidentally touching the surface.

[–] BuboScandiacus@mander.xyz 1 points 4 weeks ago

Heat the plate up to remove prints

[–] akilou@sh.itjust.works 1 points 4 weeks ago (1 children)

Do you use it for every print or do you decide from print to print which plate to use? Have you ever almost damaged a print trying to get it off?

[–] stealth_cookies@lemmy.ca 1 points 4 weeks ago

Pretty much every PLA or PETG print unless I want the textured surface of the powder coated sheet.

Large prints seem to peel off fine, and then I use the razor to slice off any smaller prints that don't peel off when I flex the bed.

[–] Bluewing@lemmy.world 2 points 4 weeks ago

With the super tack cool plate Bambu recommends removing the print while warm. Don't wait for the bed and part to cool. And DON'T wipe with IPA. Soap and water only when needed.

I bought one when they were on sale just before Christmas. It's not a plate I intend to use a lot. Any part that has a good flat base isn't meant to be printed on the super tack plate. Only those designs sketchy bed adhesion at best and can't be printed with supports.

I did use it to print a storage sheath for a fillet knife I have. I was very impressed that I was able to print a rectangular hollow tube with 2mm wide base and 165mm tall vertically with no supports or brim. It was a fine test of my skills as a designer, printer calibration, and the super tack.