ExcessShiv

joined 2 years ago
[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 1 hour ago

Jeg forstår virkelig heller ikke, at Venstre vælger at dø på sprøjtebakken.

Fordi LF har hånden så langt oppe i røven på venstre at de efterhånden bare er en hånddukke.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 4 points 14 hours ago (1 children)

I mean...if there is no grid frequency detected it automatically breaks connection between the house and the grid and keeps supplying the house from the panels and batteries. When it detects grid frequency again it reconnects the house to grid. It's a fairly simple concept.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 5 points 15 hours ago (15 children)

They detect incoming frequency, not voltage. And yes, they absolutely detect the difference, I have one, it works exactly like this.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 4 points 15 hours ago (17 children)

Oh you can buy off grid inverters (or inverters capable of "island mode"). But they are required to be able to automatically disconnect from grid, even if they are never going to be connected to a grid. You can't buy solar inverters without this for the exact reason that you can connect them to grid.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 12 points 16 hours ago (19 children)

So you can't buy raw solar panels or inverters in Germany?

Sure you can. Solar panels will be fried by grid voltage more or less immediately if you connect them directly to a wall socket and become useless.

You cannot buy a PV inverter in Germany (entire EU really) that doesn't automatically shut off if it doesn't detect a frequency to sync against from it's AC side, unless it can run off-grid in which case it has to disble the grid connection within the same 20ms.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 11 points 1 day ago

I think I would go for refurbished/used 12tb drives or bigger if money allows. I put 3x12tb in my server 2 years ago and thought I would have more than enough space for a long time...I did not.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 0 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Exactly, and those two are exact opposite operations.

What would USB stand for in this? Under Sheets Buddy?

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 4 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago)

Jeg vil mene et stereotypt "junglebrøl" skrevet på samme måde på dansk ville være noget i retning af "ÅIÅIÅ"

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 1 day ago (2 children)

"UIÅÆØ!" høres ut som et typisk jungelrop

Ikke umiddelbart på dansk vil jeg sige, måske hvis man virkelig gerne vil have det til at være det.

Except the post doesn't use 0!, it just uses 0

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 0 points 1 day ago (3 children)

Exactly opposite actually

 

I have rimworld that I bought on GOG, I wanted to use it on my steamdeck so I added the start.sh as a non-steam game. It went fine and I can open it...but the controller inputs don't work at all, only touchscreen input works. Do I need to add launch arguments or something to get it working properly? It works just fine when launched from heroic launcher outside of steam, I kind of just wanted it easily accessible with the rest of my library.

 

I'm reorganising my hobby space and I could really use some inspiration for cool and effective ways to do this. I have a rectangular room of about 15sqrm (6m x 2.5m) for this, I also have a treadmill in there so I don't have tons of space.

 

This particular filament (Sunlu matte HS PETG) is one of the absolute worst I've ever used WRT being hygroscopic. It arrived so wet that I had literal steam from the extruder the first time I wanted to use it. It took almost 48h in my drier to dry it completely so I could use it. Its been sitting in an airtight box with dessicant for 5 weeks and I needed to dry it for >16h for it to be usable again. The wet part in this print was in the bowden tube between dryer and printer, I restarted the print after took this image.

Sure it prints well at 300mm/s, but it is by no means matte at the temperatures that allow printing it at high speeds, it is actually very glossy. A huge bummer.

smooth first layer...so nice smooth first layer...so nice

 

I just got my Heltec V4 today, but after a few hours of trying I simply cannot flash meshtactic on it. I've only tried v2.7.x versions.

I consistently get "NetworkError: Failed to execute 'open' on 'SerialPort': Failed to open serial port"

I've tried all combinations mentioned in this thread but nothing seems to work.

I am on Linux mint, I've tried both chromium and chrome, I've tried different usb-cables (both A-C and C-C, all with verified data connections)

I can see the device with lsusb as "Espressif USB JTAG/serial debug unit"

Anyone know where I need to look for a solution? This has been a seriously shitty start to my meshtastic adventure.

 

I recently decided to force myself to actually learn FreeCad. I've tried on and off for the past two years but just couldn't get along with the UI and workflow...well, now I'm giving it an honest shot, and after a few weeks of misery, it is getting better.

But my laptop is not particularly powerful, and I frequently have performance issues when working with imported step-files. Lo and behold, you can run FreeCad in docker, so I can use my server which is significantly more powerful and just access via browser.

The catch is, it seems to run even worse than on my laptop. I can also see that it actually doesn't use much of the available power of the server. Does anyone have experience with setting up a docker compose for FreeCad? I've looked at the docs and my GPU should be passed through and I've also allocated 32GB ram to the container. But it doesn't actually use it it seems.

116
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

I had a lot of ASA to spare from a voron 2.4 project. I decided to use some of it printing the prusa rocket engine just for the fun of it, maxing out my printers volume with a height of 310mm. I printed it without any supports, and it does show some obvious issues in areas with large overhangs, but generally the printing quality is pretty good. It took 16h13m to print the entire thing and used a little under 400g of filament, 0.2mm layer height, 10% lightning infill, 2 walls.

 

chat control er vedtaget - DANMARK DANMARK DANMARK!!

Det er simpelthen så tåkrummende pinligt og skamfuldt at det er Danmark der er endt med at være frontløber på det er.

Beklager den engelske artikel, fandt ikke lige noget på dansk.

 

I bought a new Qidi X-Max 3 on their BF sale for 500EUR, which seemed like a great deal and I've been wanting an enclosed klipper core-xy printer for some time for more demanding prints in engineering filaments, so I pulled the trigger.

I've now had the printer for two days, and it's somewhat of a disappointment unfortunately.

The printing speed and quality of the prints are good, nothing to complain about here.

My issue is with their bed meshing and first layer. The bed is crooked as hell with a massive 0.45mm deviance from lowest to highest point, but it should not be a big issue with bed meshing because it should compensate. But it just seems like it's not compensating at all, the parts of prints that are closest to flat plane have great first layer, all other places are either way too squished or not squished at all. This means I can only get a proper first layer on about 1/3 of the bed, either front, middle or back part.

This is in stark contrast to my semi-custom anycubic bedslinger with klipper, which lays down near perfect first layer every time, without adjust Z-offset across the entire plate. And I was honestly expecting the same from the Qidi.

I have run their calibration routine multiple times. I'm fairly well versed in the 3D hobby. Is there some setting in the Qidi that I'm missing? It's running their own dirty klipper version, who knows what they've changed/missed from newest mainline. I am already considering returning as I was expecting more of a turn-key printer that my experience so far.

 

Does anyone have experience with this? Or perhaps an alternative? I've been trying to add a torrent client but it just hangs and never actually adds it. I also cannot see that it has support for adding any trackers?

28
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com to c/fedditdk@feddit.dk
 

Jeg har solgt min bil og skal til at tage det offentlige igen, og til min store overraskelse får jeg nu at vide af den kære dame i DSBs kundeservice, at det simpelthen kun er muligt at få pendlerkort med en smartphone. Jeg kan selvfølgelig bruge mit rejsekort til overpris, men kun lidt endnu for det forsvinder fandme OGSÅ snart...

Hvad pokker gør jeg så nu? Det bliver umuligt at tage det offentlige for mig fra næste år tilsyneladende...

 

Jeg har brugt briller hele mit liv, er temmelig nærsynet med -7.0 på begge øjne og med noget bygningsfejl (ikke stabilt, så det skal have nye jævnligt). Det gør at glas alene til mine briller koster fra 7.000kr (enkelt styrke) fordi man ikke bare kan tage billigste hinkesten og smide i. Det er fucking mange penge og de er en absolut nødvendighed for at jeg kan fungere i verden da jeg kun kan se ca. 10cm uden briller.

Optikere kører jo selvfølgelig ofte med forskellige tilbud, men det er næsten altid en form for "2 for 1" (og jeg skal jo ikke bruge to par briller) eller rabat på stel, men stellet er næsten en ligegyldig lille del af prisen på mine briller (500-700kr)

Men der er absolut ingen statslig støtte til det, jeg skal enten låne pengene eller være funktionelt blind. Er man medlem af sygeforsikring Danmark kan man få den svimlende sum af 420kr i tilskud i alt, det rækker jo som en snebold i helvede.

Det er pisse frustrerende og absurd at man bliver efterladt af et såkaldt "velfærdssamfund".

28
submitted 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) by ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

I've begun printing more minis for TTRPG, and since i only have a cheap bedslinger that's what I'm using.

Normally I've just stuck with minis designed specifically for supportless FDM printing, but I wanted to try my hand at something else and went with this Minotaur

fresh from the printer, supports all over

supports removed front

supports removed back

There's still a bit of post-processing before priming and painting, but I'm actually pretty happy with the quality, considering it was done on a $200 entry-level printer.

Printed in eSun PLA+ with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height, it took just short of 9h to print it.

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