ExcessShiv

I've begun printing more minis for TTRPG, and since i only have a cheap bedslinger that's what I'm using.

Normally I've just stuck with minis designed specifically for supportless FDM printing, but I wanted to try my hand at something else and went with this Minotaur

There's still a bit of post-processing before priming and painting, but I'm actually pretty happy with the quality, considering it was done on a $200 entry-level printer.

Printed in eSun PLA+ with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height, it took just short of 9h to print it.

I print figurines for D&D adventures with my kids, both monsters and player characters, I've also done a few scenery items and player trinkets. So far I've just used whatever PLA I had around, but was thinking that maybe there were some brands (or other filament) that are better for this type of thing? Preferably also easily paintable since they've started to want more than just plain solid colour.

I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle for these, and detail is actually pretty decent.

I am using the teslemetry integration to dynamically adjust my charging amps to match the surplus production from my solar panels. I have an automation that checks surplus production every 2min and adjust amps only if needed.

But teslemetry seems to trigger the wake up command every single time I want to send a command to my car, regardless of the cars sleep state. This means that teslemetry is burning through my command credits in an absurdly short amount of time as every wake command costs a ridiculously 20 credits.

How can I stop teslemetry from triggering these expensive and utterly unnecessary wake up commands?

Only been in there for a week, he's still shy but slowly becoming more brave. He explores mostly during dusk and dawn, during the day he doesn't move from this hollow cork branch but has gone from hiding at the back to peeking out the front mostly.

Picked up this little guy the other day, a male hypo bloodred het charcoal corn snake.

The little bugger has been hiding since he moved in a few days ago.

I have a cheap bedslinger at the moment, it prints well enough and with decent speed, but it's a little finicky whenever I need to start a new print and I sometimes have to stop and restart 2-3 times in the beginning to get the first layer good. I'm also having some issues with ASA warping (especially on overhangs) it's enclosed and heated to ~45°C.

I was thinking of building a voron, but I don't really have the time to have a printer project, so I wanted something that's close to what Bambu labs deliver, but ideally with the accessibility of klipper+mainsail.

I thought of getting the Prusa core one, but seeing reviews of it has really put me off it.

The printing speed is slow AF...a 37min benchy on a coreXY in 2025, WTF!? My bedslinger does it in less than 30min. The ecosystem Prusa delivers seems half baked at best, with no LAN access to the full printer interface? I'm used to klipper+mainsail which is amazing and offers full local control of every aspect of the printer settings/config, print jobs/queue printing progress and actual live video feed (Prusa is 0.1fps!?). At a 1350€ price tag, plus another 100€ for camera and accelerometer, it just seems like I'm not getting much for my money.

Is there anything out there either already running klipper, or can be flashed with it, that's close to Bambu labs?

i want to remove specific trackers from all my torrents (they're discontinued), it's not doable with a per-torrent method as i would never finish.

I'm using qbittorrent v5.0.3 WebUI, i cannot just select the trackers i wish to remove under the "trackers" pane in the left side as it only allows me to remove all torrents with this tracker (i do not wish to remove the torrents), and not remove the tracker.

how can i remove these trackers from all my torrents easily, while keeping the torrents for seeding?

when I run on my treadmill, it has suddenly started feeling like it briefly stops the belt whenever I land my stride. I've tried greasing the board underneath the belt with silicone grease according to the manual, but that didn't help. Any advice on how to fix this? Could it be the belt that needs tightening?

[SOLUTION] It was just belt tension, it had become too slack. A quick tightening fixed the issue completely.

I currently have two TVs, one I use an appleTV with and the other with a googleTV HD (device formerly known as Chromecast), but they both have issues.

The jellyfin app on appleTV is messed up, it fucks up audio and subs all the time, and in general has a hard time with media that has multiple audio tracks, not using the audio I select with the remote.

The googleTV just stutters with almost everything, direct stream or transcoded doesn't matter. All of my library is just 1080p, I have proper wifi to it, all mobile devices stream just fine.

So neither of these provide me with a solution that really works.

What solutions can you recommend, that allows for seamless navigation of jellyfin with my remote? I don't want anything resembling a mouse/keyboard combo for navigation whatsoever.

I've been having some serious issues getting PETG to print well, and I was wondering what settings other are using with success? I'm using a bedslinger in an enclosure and normally i print PLA with 200mm/s.

What are you doing for nozzle/bed temp, cooling fan, printing speeds etc? enclosed/open?

What is your printer capabilities normally for e.g. PLA?

I have a cheap bedslinger, an Anycubic Kobra 2, and generally it's a pretty decent printer at the price. I have flashed klipper FW on it, so I'm not using Anycubics FW.

I have issues whenever I try printing bigger parts, the first layer is always complete shit (see post photo).

Heightmap, measured with inductive probe range is only 0.085mm from min to max, so it should be reasonably flat. The heightmap is automatically recalibrated and loaded as part of my print_begin macro.

Slicer settings for line width

I don't know if my printer just doesn't correct Z-height during first layer, if my line width settings are completely messed up or what is causing this, but the issue is only apparent on bigger parts with large contract surface on the bed.

[SOLVED] It was just Z-offset that was too low causing this. however when running the calibration routine from ellis3dp on first layer squish, the settings that looked good on the small calibration patches, looked like crap on bigger prints. I needed a bit higher Z-offset, but that solved it.