ExcessShiv

joined 1 year ago
[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 4 points 6 hours ago

Exactly, now i have time that instead of being spent nurturing a friendship is just lost to my own inability to do stuff...and because i kind of want to do something but can't get my self to do it, I end up hating the idle alone time instead. If it's planned alone time I love it.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 6 hours ago (2 children)

I only know numbers up to 10

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 21 points 7 hours ago* (last edited 7 hours ago) (5 children)

No other people cancelling last minute fucks up everything, I've already set aside time for this and spent time waiting for this. I basically couldn't do anything else that day, and now they fucking cancelled so it was all for nothing? Fuck that, it's annoying as hell and now my day is wasted...

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 7 hours ago (4 children)

Nope, I can order beer in spanish (no more than 10 at a time) and that's about it.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 6 points 11 hours ago (1 children)

fordi lille Johnny ikke må vide hvordan en pat ser ud.

Det kræver ikke internetadgang, de er overalt på busreklamerne i større byer.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 13 hours ago

Cash is good for using as currency.

But so insanely annoying to handle and carry with you.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 18 points 13 hours ago (8 children)

It's not wrong though...There's one r and one rr in strawberry

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 6 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (2 children)

I'm completely new to painting too, and I've been having reasonable success with the following:

  • Find a position where your elbows/forearms/wrists are resting on something.

  • If you don't have a painting handle, get one.

  • Use the hand that holds the figure/handle to support the painting hand.

  • try to sit as relaxed as possible.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 60 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Seems like they treated him exactly as fairly as their native population...

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 14 points 1 day ago (2 children)

I think the franchise just lost it's novelty value. There wasn't really anywhere to take it that could expand the experience in a meaningful way. I remember loving the GH games and playing the shit out if them for years, but I also remember them going stale and boring because it was always just more of the same simple game mechanic with a new background track.

The rosy red glasses of nostalgia is making us biased.

[–] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (1 children)

Only the half burntout zombies are left by then...no one likes joining a dying party.

And you're only getting out of bed at 6am, you're not at the rave until 6:45-7am at the earliest.

 

Jeg har brugt briller hele mit liv, er temmelig nærsynet med -7.0 på begge øjne og med noget bygningsfejl (ikke stabilt, så det skal have nye jævnligt). Det gør at glas alene til mine briller koster fra 7.000kr (enkelt styrke) fordi man ikke bare kan tage billigste hinkesten og smide i. Det er fucking mange penge og de er en absolut nødvendighed for at jeg kan fungere i verden da jeg kun kan se ca. 10cm uden briller.

Optikere kører jo selvfølgelig ofte med forskellige tilbud, men det er næsten altid en form for "2 for 1" (og jeg skal jo ikke bruge to par briller) eller rabat på stel, men stellet er næsten en ligegyldig lille del af prisen på mine briller (500-700kr)

Men der er absolut ingen statslig støtte til det, jeg skal enten låne pengene eller være funktionelt blind. Er man medlem af sygeforsikring Danmark kan man få den svimlende sum af 420kr i tilskud i alt, det rækker jo som en snebold i helvede.

Det er pisse frustrerende og absurd at man bliver efterladt af et såkaldt "velfærdssamfund".

28
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

I've begun printing more minis for TTRPG, and since i only have a cheap bedslinger that's what I'm using.

Normally I've just stuck with minis designed specifically for supportless FDM printing, but I wanted to try my hand at something else and went with this Minotaur

fresh from the printer, supports all over

supports removed front

supports removed back

There's still a bit of post-processing before priming and painting, but I'm actually pretty happy with the quality, considering it was done on a $200 entry-level printer.

Printed in eSun PLA+ with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height, it took just short of 9h to print it.

 

I print figurines for D&D adventures with my kids, both monsters and player characters, I've also done a few scenery items and player trinkets. So far I've just used whatever PLA I had around, but was thinking that maybe there were some brands (or other filament) that are better for this type of thing? Preferably also easily paintable since they've started to want more than just plain solid colour.

I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle for these, and detail is actually pretty decent.

 

I am using the teslemetry integration to dynamically adjust my charging amps to match the surplus production from my solar panels. I have an automation that checks surplus production every 2min and adjust amps only if needed.

But teslemetry seems to trigger the wake up command every single time I want to send a command to my car, regardless of the cars sleep state. This means that teslemetry is burning through my command credits in an absurdly short amount of time as every wake command costs a ridiculously 20 credits.

How can I stop teslemetry from triggering these expensive and utterly unnecessary wake up commands?

 

Only been in there for a week, he's still shy but slowly becoming more brave. He explores mostly during dusk and dawn, during the day he doesn't move from this hollow cork branch but has gone from hiding at the back to peeking out the front mostly.

 

Picked up this little guy the other day, a male hypo bloodred het charcoal corn snake.

His enclosure until he gets a little bigger

The little bugger has been hiding since he moved in a few days ago.

 

I have a cheap bedslinger at the moment, it prints well enough and with decent speed, but it's a little finicky whenever I need to start a new print and I sometimes have to stop and restart 2-3 times in the beginning to get the first layer good. I'm also having some issues with ASA warping (especially on overhangs) it's enclosed and heated to ~45°C.

I was thinking of building a voron, but I don't really have the time to have a printer project, so I wanted something that's close to what Bambu labs deliver, but ideally with the accessibility of klipper+mainsail.

I thought of getting the Prusa core one, but seeing reviews of it has really put me off it.

The printing speed is slow AF...a 37min benchy on a coreXY in 2025, WTF!? My bedslinger does it in less than 30min. The ecosystem Prusa delivers seems half baked at best, with no LAN access to the full printer interface? I'm used to klipper+mainsail which is amazing and offers full local control of every aspect of the printer settings/config, print jobs/queue printing progress and actual live video feed (Prusa is 0.1fps!?). At a 1350€ price tag, plus another 100€ for camera and accelerometer, it just seems like I'm not getting much for my money.

Is there anything out there either already running klipper, or can be flashed with it, that's close to Bambu labs?

 

i want to remove specific trackers from all my torrents (they're discontinued), it's not doable with a per-torrent method as i would never finish.

I'm using qbittorrent v5.0.3 WebUI, i cannot just select the trackers i wish to remove under the "trackers" pane in the left side as it only allows me to remove all torrents with this tracker (i do not wish to remove the torrents), and not remove the tracker.

how can i remove these trackers from all my torrents easily, while keeping the torrents for seeding?

 

when I run on my treadmill, it has suddenly started feeling like it briefly stops the belt whenever I land my stride. I've tried greasing the board underneath the belt with silicone grease according to the manual, but that didn't help. Any advice on how to fix this? Could it be the belt that needs tightening?

[SOLUTION] It was just belt tension, it had become too slack. A quick tightening fixed the issue completely.

 

I currently have two TVs, one I use an appleTV with and the other with a googleTV HD (device formerly known as Chromecast), but they both have issues.

The jellyfin app on appleTV is messed up, it fucks up audio and subs all the time, and in general has a hard time with media that has multiple audio tracks, not using the audio I select with the remote.

The googleTV just stutters with almost everything, direct stream or transcoded doesn't matter. All of my library is just 1080p, I have proper wifi to it, all mobile devices stream just fine.

So neither of these provide me with a solution that really works.

What solutions can you recommend, that allows for seamless navigation of jellyfin with my remote? I don't want anything resembling a mouse/keyboard combo for navigation whatsoever.

 

I've been having some serious issues getting PETG to print well, and I was wondering what settings other are using with success? I'm using a bedslinger in an enclosure and normally i print PLA with 200mm/s.

What are you doing for nozzle/bed temp, cooling fan, printing speeds etc? enclosed/open?

What is your printer capabilities normally for e.g. PLA?

 

I have a cheap bedslinger, an Anycubic Kobra 2, and generally it's a pretty decent printer at the price. I have flashed klipper FW on it, so I'm not using Anycubics FW.

I have issues whenever I try printing bigger parts, the first layer is always complete shit (see post photo).

Heightmap, measured with inductive probe heightmap range is only 0.085mm from min to max, so it should be reasonably flat. The heightmap is automatically recalibrated and loaded as part of my print_begin macro.

Slicer settings for line width slicer settings for layer widths

I don't know if my printer just doesn't correct Z-height during first layer, if my line width settings are completely messed up or what is causing this, but the issue is only apparent on bigger parts with large contract surface on the bed.

[SOLVED] It was just Z-offset that was too low causing this. however when running the calibration routine from ellis3dp on first layer squish, the settings that looked good on the small calibration patches, looked like crap on bigger prints. I needed a bit higher Z-offset, but that solved it.

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