A Bluesky comment
Thomas Keller showed up to a community meeting in his chefs jacket to complain about affordable housing being built near his 3 Michelin star restaurant.
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[ Removed by moderator ]
It was nuked without explanation. Here's a comment that I edited to be smaller paragraphs. Still tl;dr? See emphasis mine.
This is what it looks like when a town and its most famous son stare straight at the same moral bill and both start quietly looking for the check exit. On one side you have Yountville the civic suit that spent years talking a big game about workforce housing taxed its tourists bought the dead school did the studies built the slide decks and still managed to turn a lifeline into a maze of process and delay.
On the other you have Keller gliding in late to the party with that perfectly measured concern voice saying he supports housing supports the workers supports the concept while methodically pulling every thread that might actually get those workers a key to something within walking distance.
The town hides behind procedure impact reports and phasing charts Keller hides behind vibes unit mix and financial prudence but the effect is the same bodies in aprons and uniforms burning their lives on the highway so everyone else can pretend this is still a quaint little wine town and not a resort wrapped around a labor camp.
The contrast is mostly cosmetic. The council does it in public meetings and staff reports talking about design character traffic circulation and fiscal responsibility while quietly shaving off ambition turning three stories into a favor two phases into maybe someday and urgency into another workshop on community feedback.
Keller does it with brand management and soft focus language about protecting quality of life and making sure housing is done right using his platform to put a governor on the one serious project that might actually change who gets to exist inside the town limits after dark. The town is cowardly in that familiar bureaucratic way never quite willing to say out loud that housing workers near where they work is more important than preserving a postcard skyline and under parked tasting rooms.
Keller is cowardly in the more personal way of a man who built an empire on other peoples double shifts but still cannot bring himself to accept a little density a few cramped studios and some uncomfortable neighbors as the cost of doing business honestly. Side by side they make a neat little duet.
City hall says our hands are tied by state mandates financial risk and community input Keller says my hands are tied by unit size parking and concerns for the town’s future both pretending they are reluctant participants in someone else’s bad plan instead of co authors of the same old script.
The council needs his star power to bless the illusion that you can fix a housing crisis without pissing off anyone with money and he needs their endless process to make sure nothing truly disruptive actually gets built in his shadow. The punch line is that neither of them ever has to say what they are really choosing because the workers feel it for them in overtime miles flat tires and rent checks mailed to someone else’s community.
In the end the only real difference between the chef and the chief and the council is the wardrobe they wear while they all quietly decide that the people who make the fantasy possible still do not deserve a place inside it.
mfw the theory achieves supercriticality
no notes.
i used to be a farm worker at a resort community. baby bite-sized greens harvested just an hour before the lords for their post golf lunch. and as a person who likes food but abhors the conspicuous consumption aspect, the snobbery, "rich people subsidizing food for other rich people" projects, and the aristocrat-for-an-hour mummery of so-called "fine dining", the number of celebrity chefs i wouldn't deck on pure principal is very small.
to those out there that want to break free from the classist systems of the west and their approach to luxury food that has absolutely infected everything, i recommend the only-recently-well-translated (2018) alternative to the westoid Marie-Larousse (1938) / Auguste Escoffier (1903) / Marie-Antoine Carême (1815) lineage of haute-cuisine gastronome bullshit:
"Recipes from the Garden of Contentment" (1792) by Yuan Mei, a true enjoyer of simple meals of harmonious flavors made with limited ingredients and less waste/pomp/bullshit, in general. he was an extremely opinionated mid-tier civil servant who retired early to focus on writing poems, and having the most bomb ass food and parties from his large kitchen garden/pond out in the country. he regarded the elaborate/opulent meals and banquets among elites of his time to be worthy only of scorn. what mattered was what flavors compliment each other and what could be prepared without a lot of faffery and waste.
it is a completely different philosophy of food to the western classist bullshit where the profession of the modern chef emerged from the estate kitchen of landed aristocrats to set up the "restaurant" where the new petite bourgeoisie could play at being a little lord for a meal and be waited on by servants and brought the finest treats.
the forward of the recent translation, the translator notes, the bio (a free excerpt of these is here) and especially his unfiltered opinions at the start of his chapters on topics are all deeply entertaining and i think they are more important in terms of philosophical inspiration than the recipes themselves.
a bonus is, none of these absolute fucking westoid chef clowns have ever heard of this guy, because they have a total blindspot for everything that isn't eurocentric. so if you claim him as the great ancestor of food artistry, they will be at a total loss because their dogma is narrow as hell.
it should be noted, the far east had a whole sophisticated civilization back when europeans were still living in caves, hooting gibberish and throwing half-eaten turds at the sun because it hurt to look at.
That's it. That's the list.