IMALlama

joined 2 years ago
[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 6 points 19 hours ago (3 children)

Have a conversation? Go for a walk? Play one of many different types of non-sport or sport games? Generally hang out. The possibility are endless.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 20 hours ago

I upgraded from my pixel 3a last December after 5 years. To be honest, most of the performance gains are unnoticeable to me as I don't game and use pretty light apps.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago

The word "coffee" is being used very liberally here. Starbucks and company will happily sell you highly sugared drinks for $7. They'll also sell you "American" (drip) coffee for $2.50, which is still too much but it's a bit more reasonable.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 7 points 2 days ago

I was wondering why our clear skies the past few days looked like they had a layer of lake effect cloud cover. This also explains that.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago

Nice work!

One of the interesting things about modeling and then printing replacement parts is figuring out which features matter (like shaft diameters and spacing in this design) and which you can take some liberties with to make printing easier. For example, for the part on the left you may have been able to add tapered feature to the rod insider to let you print the part standing on the flat bit on the far left without any supports. Another possibility might be trying to get the part to lie lengthwise by modifying the cylinder some as arced parts have deceivingly big overhangs. Perhaps you could give it a small flat spot.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Lead with a shower then have a clean bath?

 

This is a vaguely arty shot I took with my A9ii when I was renting the 70-200 f/2.8.

200mm, f/3.2, ISO 100, 1/800

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 5 points 5 days ago

You're right that phillips screws are prone to cam out if theres a size mismatch, but it doesn't stop there. Apply too much torque or have a misshapen screw head or bit and you're out of luck.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 8 points 5 days ago (1 children)

The challenge with ASA and ABS re:warping is chamber temps, not so much bed temperature. Both shrink pretty significantly compared to PLA and if your chamber is too cool and/or your print is too big or has difficult geometry you're going to be in for a rough time.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 5 days ago (1 children)

I've lived at this latitude in a couple different states. From what I've experienced, the climate in the mid west is similar to that of PA, NY, NJ, CT, RI, etc. Snowfall changes vary radically based on your proximity to a lake and generally speaking anything west of PA is super flat.

To me, the nice thing about SE MI is it the size of the metro and the quantity of things to do within it. The people are also a bit more friendly than the east coast, which is nice too.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 6 days ago (3 children)

The fence is about 6.5 feet tall and seems to keep deer out pretty well. Our garden is near a creek that deer like to walk along, but I've never caught a deer in our garden if I remember to put all the gates on.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 4 points 6 days ago (4 children)

Not trying to plant-shame in the slightest, but under optimal conditions, your plant would be well over the 6' mark at this point in the season.

This really depends on where you live. I'm in Zone 6a and a 1' tall tomato plant is doing pretty well right now. We have some posters who are up in Canada and I don't think they're even passed their last frost date.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 8 points 6 days ago (3 children)

Printing things at a 45 degree angle is a magic cheat code for tons of overhangs. It can also help give your prints more resolution as most designs tend to not care if the "tall" layers are diagonally oriented.

 

I have a cheap/quick/dirty deer and rabbit fence around our vegetable garden. The doors are simple PVC squares with deer netting that used to attach to the fence via hooks at the top. This design turned out to be very fiddly. The new design seems much easier to manage - simply drop the door section into its slot.

 

/old man

 

So close, and yet so far

 

This is from last august, I just slacked on getting it posted.

I live in SE MI and our bee season hasn't really started yet, but I hope to clear out the remainder of my straggler photos from last year before it starts.

89
Brr (lemmy.world)
 

I took this a few months ago through one of our windows. I have a small backlog of photos to get through and hope to do one a day, but some of them might show up on !photography@lemmy.world.

A9ii w/ Tamron 150-500 @ 374 mm, 1/250, f/5.6, ISO 200. Cropped some.

 

No idea what's going on / it's the first time its flowers have ever looked this way. I personally think it's kind of neat.

 

Title basically. I've found myself playing youth sports team photographer, which I don't mind doing but we're going to have two kids in little league this season and I'm not looking forward to culling two team's worth of games. I've gotten better at framing and catching fielding action over the past year, I get pictures of my own kids, and the rest of the parents on the team seem to appreciate the photos, so woo. But! I'm very interested in tips to make the process of culling shots a bit faster.

Each game I try to get a hero shot per kid batting (getting a hit, bonus points if the ball is in frame), along with some general fielding shots. I come home with a metric crap ton of photos since getting a hero shot basically means bursting any time our team is at bat for every pitch.

I try to make sure each kid has roughly equal representation in the final album, regardless of how many (or few) hits each kid actually got.

I've found that it's easiest to sort photos by kid and cull from there, but I'm doing this completely manually in photo mechanic. I've dabbled in AI tools, but I don't really know what's out there. It seems like sorting all the photos with the most prominent face in the frame, and using context of being mid burst if a face is lost, automatically would be a massive time savings. Does such software exist? I don't want to pull out every face in the frame, just the biggest/sharpest one. Is there a better option for youth sports? A better approach to apply in photo mechanic?

Any/all advice welcome!

 

Raspberries are escaping their raised bed after two years :( I really don't want them to spread beyond it. what to do? Bury a tarp under the mulch? Dig a trench around the bed? Roundup?

 

One more picture below.

Behold, rebar clamps to give my veggies a nice climbing structure.

They're 3 total parts and are held together heat sets and bolts.

 

I was walking my 4 year old to T-ball practice and noticed these buds. All I had was my phone, so....

I do try to bring my 'real' camera with me most of the time, but haven't been bringing it to their practices since I get game photos.

 

The joys of parts with not friendly printing geometry. There's another cylindrical recess running at 90 degrees to the one that's visible in this photo.

Apologies for the very obvious layer lines. Harsh direct overhead lighting makes them a lot more obvious. The prints are much better in person, I promise.

Edit: Finished part showing the second cylindrical recess. They're both dimensionally important, which is why the parts weren't printed flat.

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