Gandi a été racheté pas des cons il y a peu, j’ai moyen confiance à moyen/long terme.
:pikachusurpris:
Not far right, just right. But yeah unfortunately not a surprise.
Yeah I'm pretty bumped too. I really would like to test it with a framerate analysis tool to check if my eyes are deceiving me but I don't know any that's free/open source.
I received the game yesterday. It’s not bad but there’s a clear lack of polish to it and framerate is all over the place. Frankly, I cannot recommend it for now, perhaps wait for corrective patches.
Wat. J'ai réussi à le lire tout à l'heure 0__o
Moi je comprends que c’est un appel à une constituante. Après, j’ai tendance à comprendre ce que j’ai envie donc bon…
Config 1.2, invert look inside the game. Invert both sticks in the Switch configuration menu for mapping controller.
You’ll have modern controls.
The 74AHCT125N appears to be a 3v to 5v level shifter
I don’t think the cable adapter is using this particular chip. I see two much smaller ones. Maybe that’s the issue.
To be abundantly clear, is the Blueretro meant to work when only powered by the console? It certainly wouldn’t be as convenient – an extra cable and power block to deal with – but everything is functional when externally powered by USB, yes?
That’s right Blueretro is supposed to be powered by the console alone. When powerd by USB, it is perfectly functional.
Do I understand that your original post is debugging why the console isn’t sufficient to power the Blueretro?
That’s correct.
What I’ve measured so far:
- from the controller port directly: 4.8V
- from the wires inside the adapter without Blueretro attached: 4.6V
- from the wires inside the adapter with Blueretro attached: 3.9V
There are some active components inside the adapter itself, I guess this could explain the drop 0.2V drop.
So is it sagging?
C’est en cours de fusion, donc je m’attends à ce qu’il y ait des dégâts à un moment soit d’un côté, soit de l’autre.