One painful firmware update later and the z-offset bug that has plagued me since getting the Neptune 4 Pro is finally resolved and first layers are good again just like that. I just had to share the thrilling end result.

I made a magsafe mount in black for my Kia and I didn't like the layer lines on the curved parts, but it gave me the idea to try using wood

I have a 3D Chameleon MMU so I added color changes randomly throughout between two shades of brown. One is wood, one is PLA.

It honestly came out way better than I even expected!

If anyone wants the STL I can provide it!

1st time printing with ASA and it's my largest print that doesn't have any straight lines. I typically only design things with straight lines, pretty pleased with how this turned out. Threw in a cactus to fend off the cats but fortunately they don't seem very interested. Printed on a Bambu X1 carbon with Polymaker ASA.

Looks neat.

This doesn’t sound like an issue for those who use Fusion frequently, however you may want to find ways to get local files, just to be safe.

I WANT IT.

It probably costs several million dollars. I have no idea what I'd do with it.

I see so much info about printing with larger nozzles and such. Not much on smaller. Is there anything I should worry about that I might not be expecting?

The test prints in the image use the 0.2mm detail mode and 0.07mm ultradetail mode

I recently got a SV06, my first 3D printer, about a month and a half ago. About a week ago I started to find really bad oozing/ stringing on all of my prints, to the point that any functional prints are basically unusable. So far what I have tried is:

• Cleaning the nozzle, inside and out, using a damp cloth and the metal needle tool that came with the printer.
• Drying the filament. I had two rolls that I was using for the current print, so I used a DIY Dryer to dry both rolls, each on 70 degrees celcius for 4+ hours.

Neither of these have worked. What should I do next?

Not me, I found this :)

I was thinking about this question today as someone used our work printer for some personal stuff.

As for me, I am printing little things that I would say make it worth it. I've printed lens adapters for my camera for example. That's worth a good 14 to 30 bucks per print. My most favorite photo was with an adapted lens that came from a projector. I also printed IEMs and those things are worth it. Listening to music is second to none on those things. Plus I printed the same shell but for ear protection and again the fit is perfect and sure there's post processing to get smooth surfaces but in the end it looks like a professional made it. So I think 3d printers are worth it.

I have had my Creality Ender 3 Pro for a while now and I have upgraded it quite a lot. Lately I have been thinking about wether I should put in some more money (better hotend, maybe new steppers, maybe enclosure, maybe part cooling fan) or if I should buy a new printer that is a more of complete package. A bit more build volume would be nice as well.

I am intrigued by the Bambu Labs printers but I don't like their somewhat proprietary approach. So I have been looking around for competitors and I saw that Creality has shown their new K2 Plus with an AMS. I wonder if it's worth waiting for that. The specs sound good. Is the K1 good now? I heard it had some problems in the beginning.

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/23562018

Mere days after photos of a 35x35 surfaced, Preston Alden has unveiled a 49x49:

It weighs 30 kg, stands 34 cm tall, and consists of 13,827 pieces. Every piece of the cube was 3D printed using PETG plastic (aside from the bolts and springs).

Congratulations to Preston on such an incredible achievement. I've never seen olzing on such a large puzzle!

More info on the twistypuzzles forum: https://twistypuzzles.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39559

Prusa video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VO2MaQrUcqE

TL;DR For those who don't want to watch 10-minute video:

0. MK4 to MK4s uprade kit: 109€ + shipping (MK4 customer will receive a voucher (except shipping cost))

1. Larger cooling fan

2. Improved cooling duct

3. high flow nozzle

4. NFC for app

5. some parts upgraded from PETG to PC-CF

6. MK4s still ship without an accelerometer. Prusa claims this isn't needed.

7. No camera.

8. No upgrades for the Prusa XL in the near future!!!!

other stuff:

• accelerometer board

• GPIO board

Personal Opinion:

This should have been the MK4 to begin with and shows once more how blindsided Prusa was. BambuLab put so much pressure on them that they had to publish the MK4 in the state it is.

Regrading the Prusa XL the trouble continues. This launch/printer has been riddled by issues after issue and now the statement that the improved part cooling won't make it to the XL in the near future.... My guess it that they screwed up with the XL and didn't consider large toolheads at the design stage favoring a 5 toolhead design over a 4 head option and now run into the same issue I do with the E3D (it can fit those 6023 fans but not like they mount it on the MK4s). For example, with my E3D tool changer, a tool must fit within a 85mm(w) x 60mm(depth) surface area.

For the technical side?

The larger fan is great as it allows to use fans with decent pressure at the target airflow with a low noise. Those 4020 found on most printers aren't a great choice.

High flow nozzle? Yeah ... nothing groundbreaking or new.

NFC and app? A year ago was prusa connect at best a beta. Maybe a an alpha as I would need to restart the printer twice a day because it froze/crash. The value here depends on if they meanwhile fixed it or it is still a joke.

GPIO board? Depends. Might be held back by the firmware as those things require macros to be useful and Prusa firmware never was build around this idea. Still nice to see them publishing this.

Quick upgrade for easy to plug and unplug end effectors/toolheads. Activity/status LED are also moved from the back of the printer to the top and some more voltage regulation to provide additional voltage rails.

While a nice connector adds significant cost it is also a big value add for certain 3D-printer. I think more manefacturer should consider tiny details like this when designing their product.

Strain relief isn't installed on this tool for reasons ...

Reposting. 3d printed replica of build gun from Satisfactory build guide.

Stratasys is losing ground because their massively overpriced ecosystem is getting outclassed by literally everything else in the market. So why improve if you can just sue your competition out of the US market?

I just received an unexpected SLA printer from what I had assumed was a failed Kickstarter for the "Coolsiga FinderOne" or C1 or Classic. The manual is clearly intended for someone who has some context, but my past experience has been entirely FDM based.

I'm not claiming it's a good manual by any stretch of the imagination, nor am I confident that it will work -- but is there an "Dummies Guide to SLA Printers" I can read through to at least know what it's talking about?

I have a K1 Max and mostly it is running great, however I get strange artifacts on mostly only the front side of curved objects.

I have lubed all the rods, and I have a Capricorn PTFE tube from the filament sensor to the hot end. I tried the printable guide for the tube to go into the hot end but it wasn't any better and I thought that was the culprit at first.

I have an extension piece to raise up the top glass.

I'm using Elegoo Rapid PTEG running at 240c and 250mm outerwall speed. This is mainly happening on the front side and anywhere on the build plate. Filament is dry and fed out of the Creality Space dryer.

These items are small netcups but it was also happening on the larger sections that they go in.

Using Orcaslicer and Arachne wall generator.

Any ideas where I need to be focusing my attention on?

Homing your printer systematically before a print is redundant, a waste of time and sometimes even an issue (if your homing probe is misbehaving and you’ve already dialed an offset by need to restart the print for a clean first layer for instance) I recently came upon this G28 macro that only homes of the printed is not already homed.

[gcode_macro G28]
# Only home if needed.
rename_existing: G28.1
gcode:
    {% if PA %}
        G28.1 {PA}
    {% else %}
        {% if printer.toolhead.homed_axes != "xyz" %}
            G28.1
        {% endif %}
    {% endif %}

All you have to do is add this to your macro.cfg file and it will override any G28 command from any gcode and only execute a home if needed. If you want to execute a home even if not needed, you can send the command G28.1 or give it a parameter, like G28 X, or G28 XYZ and it will force the homing

Hey all, I'm hoping someone who has dealt with this can help me out. I've got a print that would really benefit from soluble supports. I spent some time reading about using PVA picked up SainSmart PVA 500g as it was recommended on a few different places though I didn't think to check, it doesn't have a filament profile in Prusa Slicer, so maybe that was a mistake. I ended up picking the only other PVA filament profile in hopes it was close which I think was PrimaSelect PVA+ or something.

So I spent more time reading and people suggested print it around 190c. What I ended up doing is using the printing profile "soluble interface", which only puts the soluble material between the support and the print. I didn't change too many other settings (slowed down initial layer, turned off wipe tower).

What I found is that the PVA keeps triggering the filament runout sensor on the hotend, so I kept manually feeding it back in but each time it seemed to just run out again.

Additionally, the PVA would come out in big bubbles instead of thin lines. What am I doing wrong?

“Get an AMS” they said. “You can do multicolor prints. Up to 16!”

Me: What is “color”?