3DPrinting

I have an sv08 and it got hurt by static electricity so I had to replace the toolhead. But since I replaced it, the printer has been unable to print acceptably. I talked to sovol and replaced all the wiring between the toolhead+motors and mainboard but the attached pictures shows how it prints now. it does a lot better than it did, but its current status is strange. How come half of it is smooth and half is crazy? It would make sense it just x or just y direction was messed up, but it's half of both...

I’m using Fusion360, and I dislike it for a lot of reasons, but it’s easy to use. I tried FreeCAD, but it was very janky in comparison. Shapr3D was surprisingly good, but there’s no way I’m paying monthly for my hobby usage. I need precision prints, so I can’t just use Blender or similar.

Is there some magical unicorn software I’m not finding?

Github: https://github.com/oozebot/preFlight

Interested in taking some wild new 3D printing features for a test drive? preFlight is free and open source slicer that brings a host of processing improvements as well as fascinating new features and interesting twists on old ones. There are almost too many to list, so here are a few that caught our eye. Cross-sectional view of Interlocking Perimeters, which increases Z-strength. Unlike brick layers, layer height stays constant.

Want to mix and match different support types on the same object? No problem. How about use Nip & Tuck seams to better hide where layers start and stop? You can emboss images directly onto print surfaces with a real-time preview and use smart bridging for counter-bored holes. We particularly like the ability to preview a sliced object from the side instead of just by layer. That’s not all, either.

Those features alone are pretty intriguing, but there’s one in particular that is particularly relevant to creating stronger parts. Interlocking Perimeters increases layer bonding to increase object strength. Unlike brick layers, which staggers layers vertically, interlocking perimeters plays with spacing and compression to increase bonding in the Z axis while keeping layer heights constant. This is possible thanks in part to the greater control offered by Athena, the new perimeter generator.

There are plenty more features — like a full Python runtime embedded directly into the slicing pipeline, and a host of export pathways — so check out the GitHub repository for added detail and let us know in the comments if you give it a try.

It's based around a Surface Go 2 I picked up off of ebay for $40. I set in the bios to boot when plugged in and kiosk mode to limit the battery to 50%. I cut a custom Mat to fit the screen. Not a whole lot 3D printing. Just spacers and brackets to hold the tablet centered.

Every time I iron a print, I get a line like this, which I assume must be from nozzle drag; a dangling filament line wouldn't only be on the top surface, right? And, to touch, it's completely flat—no extra material is there that I can tell. It feels very slightly lower.

I have tested on my Creality Hi and my friend’s Creality Hi. My friend’s Hi seems to work better with 0.97 flow rate, vs. mine at default 0.98, so the ironing calibration is different, but the drag line is almost identical. (It moves up or down by ~1-2mm between tests, but it's the same angle and length across the same squares.)

Calibration is completed before printing.

I initially thought this looked like wiping, but I disabled wipe while retracting to off (with z-hop of 0.4mm) and this still happens. In retrospect, that makes sense, since wipe while retracting should be like 2mm, not across an entire print like this.

I then did some Googling and people online were suggesting bumping z-hop from off or 0.2mm to 0.4mm or even 0.55mm; I had 0.4mm already (the default setting), but I bumped it to 0.6mm (pictured above) and the drag line is identical. (Note that I forgot to take a picture before popping it off the plate, so please ignore the gap on the left. It was well adhered.)

Others also mentioned dragging from over extrusion; this is a crazy thin print, too, so there's no way over extrusion would be causing z-level imprecision this close. And with my friend’s Hi at 0.97 flow rate, it’s slightly under-extruded, if anything (occasional tiny line gaps in some spots on first and top layers, but better than the fused joints I was getting previously.)

FWIW, these tests were all done with JAYO basic PLA, but I get similar lines with other filaments when I use ironing.

What am I missing? What's causing that drag line? It's driving me crazy, and my Google Fu is coming up with nothing. Any tips?

Title. I'm looking for resins with the lowest Shore hardness, the lowest one I've found (that I can buy on aliexpress) is Resione F39, with Shore 60-75A. Ideally, I'd want to get something closer to Shore 30-40A.

So, failing that, anyone with a higher understanding of chemistry can explain what additives are usually added, resulting in a cured resin with greater elasticity?

After hearing from an acquaintance that creality is good now (he specifically said that this model prints flawlessly, and he bought 10 of them), I've obtained one as well. It's shit, like, actually bad, no other words. Print quality is average at best; it can't heat the bed evenly. I needed to level it manually, and it still prints worse than an average bedslinger from 3 years ago. Print bed coating is very sensitive to dirt and dust and already breaks off. Even when it prints (and every second print fails), I can't leave it alone because it's just that unreliable. I don't think that I had such a frustrating experience with a printer after anet a8. Sadly I can't give it back. Should have gone with Sovol.

// Person that recommended it to me finally showed how it 'flawlessly' prints yesterday, essentially it's no different.

i've been battling this wrinkling phenomenon for weeks. it shows up at random, and i can't figure out what i'm doing wrong. i've changed layer height. i've checked the z-offset of the extruder. i've lowered acceleration to 1/10th of normal. i've lowered the flow rate. i've raised the flow rate. i've cleaned the plate with soapy water and IPA. i've checked for bumps on plate and the bed. i've flipped the plate over. i've done automatic and manual levelling. i've redone the bed compensation calibration like twelve times. i've moved and rotated my print. i've tried different colours, materials and makes. i've dried the filaments to under 10% humidity. i've switched extruders. i've placed the printer on a mass damper (a 25kg slab of concrete on top of a 2cm thick rubber granule mat). the last thing i did was physically holding on to the extruder as it moved (that's what that thicker band in the top left is).

this can happen no matter how far along the print i am. it can be fine for the first 300 layers, then start happening on layer 320 and be so serious that the extruder hits the wrinkles and loses its place on layer 330. i've been sitting there staring at the printer as it does it and the filament just seems to... come out like that. it doesn't expand or anything. and sometimes it doesn't happen at all. the only common denominator is that all the prints that it happens on have large horizontal planes.

i don't think this is caused by overextrusion of the first layer, partly because it never happens on the first layer, and partially because i did a bed adhesion test:

yeah adhesion is awful here. i forgot to actually clean the plate this time. but the part in the middle is the only one that matters, and that is clean. if anything that looks like underextrusion. i just don't understand. i think i need professional help. first from the 3d printing community, then from a therapist.

here's my bed compensation matrix, for reference:

Made with a mix of PLA and iron tubes :)

I just made this post on !hydroponics@slrpnk.net and thought it would also fit here :)

I made an adapter for standard glass bottles to grow lettuce and herbs in them hydroponically.

This print takes just a few minutes (designed for vase mode!) and you can use up your last inches of filament with it.

https://www.printables.com/model/1002248-hydroponic-kratky-bottle-adapter-vase-mode-ultrafa

I'm too old school for a multi color printer so this has some defects. I printed .02 layer then do a color change so in a way it smashes it all together and since its such thin layer its hard to see around the edges. The plexi sheet is actually imbedded into the print, I left a gap in the model and paused the print and inserted the plexi, it then printed over the edges.

As for the tubes they are place holders until we get something better.

Hi, I'm searching for a fillament with a similar hardness/resistance to PLA but which doesn't plasticly deform when bent for longer periods of time.

This is for a wearable, specificly the c3cat cat ears. I printed mine out of PLA but they got too loose after 2 days of wearing.

I already got reccommended TPU 100A, but I worry that it's too soft.

Thankies :3

Hi all.

My venerable ender 3 has likely printed it's last benchy. Plus side, the tech has advanced significantly since I bought it. Down side, I've not kept track of the newer options.

Can anyone give me a rundown of which are worth looking at, and which to avoid?

I'm mostly concerned with reliability, but a speed boost would definitely be welcome. A heated chamber and/or multi material would also be very nice to have.

I would like to keep the costs closer to £500 ($680) but can stretch that, if there is a machine worth it.

I also have a complete no on bamboo printers. I don't like what they've done regarding abuse of the open source movement.

Thanks all!

Edit to add. I'm not against non open source printers. I just have an issue with companies trying to burn the ladder behind them and lock their customers into a bubble.

Double edit: The snapmaker U1 seems like my best option. Ticks all the boxes, while remaining well in budget.

Ignore the bad quality, my cooling fan broke down. It was printed on 0.08mm layer height.

I didn’t like any of the organizers I could find so I designed my own! It’s got 7 chambers and can be resized easily when slicing for different sized bottles

Crossposted from https://piefed.world/c/3dprinting/p/1061196/indx-conversion-kits-now-available-to-public-for-prusa-core-one

While removing the extruder on my Creality Hi to clear a jam I damaged the wire that connects the extruder board to the print board and I have NO IDEA where to purchase a replacement wire.

It's a 3pin wire roughly 9cm long with 2 male ends where 1 is about 2mm wide and other about 5mm wide.

MUCH appreciate any advice on where to shop and what search terms to use for locating a replacement, ideally located in the US.